The James Bond series suit makers often make additional clothes for the Bond actors to wear for promotional photography in character and for press tours. For GoldenEye, James Bond’s new suit maker Brioni made additional suits in addition to what Pierce Brosnan wears in the film for him to wear for promotion related to the film. One of these suits is a double-breasted charcoal grey pinstripe suit.
It should be no mystery why Pierce Brosnan doesn’t wear this suit in GoldenEye. Double-breasted suits—but not blazers or dinner jackets—are exclusive to Roger Moore’s James Bond, and whilst his double-breasted suits had a fashion-forward look to them, Brosnan’s double-breasted suit is quite conservative. A charcoal suit with a subtle pinstripe is as staid as a suit can be, and it makes Brosnan look more like a banker than a cool suited action hero. People say that about all of his suits in his Bond films, but none come as close to the conservative business look as this suit does. If the stripes were bolder, he would look like a 1940s Hollywood gangster.
This double-breasted suit is in the classic button two, show three configuration, with six buttons total and two to button. It is most likely their ‘Plinio’ model, like the double-breasted blazer that Brosnan wears in GoldenEye, and it shows what the blazer would have looked like if he had buttoned it. While double-breasted jackets can look sloppy when worn unbuttoned, leaving the blazer open prevented it from looking too stuffy in the film.
If this were a few years earlier, Brosnan would have likely been wearing a six-button double-breasted suit that fastens only at the bottom button, like what he often wore in the 1984 to 1987 years of Remington Steele. By 1995 that style had been falling out a favour, but if there had been a Bond film in the early ’90s we likely would have seen Bond wearing it because of how trendy it was.
Brosnan’s suit is tailored with straight, wide padded shoulders, a full cut, a slightly long length and medium-width peaked lapels. It adds up to a 1940s look as much as a 1990s look. It’s detailed with straight flap pockets, double vents and four-button cuffs.
The suit trousers have reverse pleats, most likely double reverse pleats. If these trousers follow the suit trousers from the film they have a tapered leg, turn-ups and take a belt.
Brosnan’s white shirt is from Sulka and has a semi-spread collar and double cuffs. His red tie with a small check is from Turnbull & Asser, identified by The Bond Vivant. He makes it in a tight four-in-hand knot with a dimple. He wears a white handkerchief puffed in his breast pocket.