For The World Is Not Enough, costume designer Lindy Hemming toned down James Bond’s wardrobe and brought back the minimalism of Sean Connery’s suits. The outfit that best exemplifies this is Pierce Brosnan’s grey pick-and-pick suit from Brioni. Pick-and-pick is also known as sharkskin, but don’t confuse this with the polyester blend fabric also called sharkskin. Pick-and-pick is a twill weave made with picks in alternating colours. The suit pictured has alternating picks in light and dark grey. Up close pick-and-pick looks like small zigzagging lines of the two colours in the weave. But from a distance it looks like dark grey with a cross-hatch effect, and it looks far more interesting and elegant than a flat grey.
This suit’s pick-and-pick cloth is from Dormeuil. Below is a diagram of a what the cloth looks like close up:
Like most of Pierce Brosnan’s suits from Brioni, this one has a button three front. Brioni tailors a distinctive built-up shoulder line that is flattering to Brosnan’s physique. However, the jackets were always cut very loose through the body and don’t mesh well with the slimmer trouser leg. This jacket has straight, flapped pockets, double vents and four-button cuffs, and the darted front trousers are belted and finished with turn-ups. The shirt is white with a spread collar and double cuffs. Bond’s shoes are black monks, which will be the topic of the next article.
This suit is worn twice in the movie, each time with a different tie. The first tie is dark blue and light brown in a pointed twill weave, made by Turnbull & Asser. It’s the same tie as in the Bilbao scenes. The second tie has a warm, dark blue ground with a neat pattern of light brown ticks. Below is a picture of the back of the tie, now identified as from Herbie Frogg. Both ties are a mix of blue and brown, which is a favourite combination of Lindy Hemming on Pierce Brosnan. The blue and brown of the ties mix together to a neutral to complement the grey suit.