For his final assault on Janus’ Cuban base and satellite dish, James Bond is appropriately dressed in a tactical outfit of shirt, vest and cargo trousers in various shades of olive drab. This outfit is Brosnan’s second combat look of GoldenEye after the military outfit he started the film with at the Russian base. These two costumes from costume designer Lindy Hemming completed James Bond’s transformation from a Cold War spy into an action hero for the 1990s. Timothy Dalton had previously worn tactical gear in The Living Daylights for an exercise at Gibraltar, which illustrated the start of James Bond as a more physical action-oriented character.
Check out BAMF Style’s insightful description of this outfit, where he compares Brosnan’s look with real-life military outfits.
This is a rare green-focused look for Bond. Bond usually wears a lot of blue because he’s a naval man, while green is more of an army colour. Olive green is the best choice for this outfit, and the various shades throughout the outfit help to camouflage Bond within the Cuban jungle.
The cotton utility shirt is a shade of dark olive. It has a point collar, front placket and two box-pleated breast pockets with pointed buttoned-down flaps. The shirt has long sleeves with matching elbow patches and button cuffs, and Bond wears the sleeves rolled up the forearm. At the underarms are two ventilation grommets to help the shirt breathe in the Cuban heat. The shirt’s buttons are a variegated light tan urea.
The shirt’s full fit is characteristic of the 1990s, but it’s also practical for keeping Bond cool in the Cuban heat. The shirt is a piece that could easily be worn casually as civilian wear, with the sleeve patches and armpit ventilation being the only aspect that separates it from an ordinary sports shirt.
Over the shirt Brosnan wears a lighter olive drab cotton vest with pockets and patches in a lighter shade of olive. The vest is constructed with front and back yokes, and the front yokes are vented. The armholes are piped in a light olive colour while the front edge and neck are piped in a dusty brown colour. The vest zips two-thirds up the front. There are straps at the sides of the waist to cinch it.
The vest has three small breast pockets with flaps that fasten with black poppers; two are on the left and one is on the right and angled slightly towards the face. There are three larger pockets at the lower front of the vest with Velcro-fastening flaps. The one left pocket and far right of two right pockets have inverted box pleats with bellows and flap piping that match the brown piping on the front. The inner of the two right pockets is trimmed in green to match the armholes. The angled pocket, unbalanced placement of the pockets and mismatched piping give the vest a makeshift look as if it were pieced together from different parts that were lying around.
Cotton or cotton-blend cargo trousers match the olive drab colour of vest. Cargo trousers were popular for casual dress at the time of GoldenEye in the mid-1990s, but Bond wears them for their original purpose as tactical gear. They have a flat front, slanted side pockets, two rear pockets with large flaps and flapped cargo patch pockets on the thighs. With the numerous pockets on the shirt, vest and trousers, Bond will never run out of convenient places to store items.
The trousers are supported by a wide medium-brown leather belt. The belt has a large double-prong steel buckle.
The medium-brown leather commando boots have an apron toe and four pairs of reinforced eyelets with three pairs of speed hooks. The soles are heavy black rubber commando lug soles for the best grip. Bond wears light-olive-green socks with the boots, which he tucks his trousers into.
The outfit is sort of an update of Roger Moore’s safari clothes, which he also wore for jungle missions. Brosnan’s tactical gear is more practical and is much more up-to-date, but both styles have military roots. Roger looked more stylish in his safari clothes, while Brosnan looks more badass and ready for action in his tactical gear.