The notched lapel dinner jacket gets a lot of hate from clothing aficionados, however Bond has worn a notched lapel dinner jacket on a number of occasions. In all, Bond has worn seven dinner jackets with notched lapels. People who argue against notched lapels on a dinner jacket say that they are not formal enough for a dinner jacket or they make a dinner suit look too much like a business suit. Notched lapels are easier to make in mass production since they use the same pattern as a regular suit. Peaked lapels are the most formal style of lapels on a dinner jacket and come from the evening tailcoat. A bit lower in formality is the shawl collar, originating from the smoking jacket. The notched lapel is even lower in formality, and since people mostly wear dinner jackets in formal settings the notched lapel is out of place.
James Bond is first seen wearing a midnight blue notched lapel dinner jacket in Goldfinger when he is having dinner with M and Colonel Smithers. The notched lapels are more appropriate here than they usually would be because it’s a private dinner. Such an occasion is one of the better uses for a notched-lapel dinner jacket. Notched lapel dinner jackets are best for people in the service industry, where the dinner jacket is a formality, but it isn’t meant to be a special garment. Bond’s company is better dressed in shawl collar dinner jackets.
Not much of Bond’s dinner jacket can be seen, but since it is single-breasted it can safely be assumed that it has a one-button front. The cuffs have four satin-covered buttons. Nothing below the waist can be seen.
The shirt and tie are the same as worn with the white dinner jacket at the beginning of the film. Frank Foster made it in a fancy white-on-white satin stripe with a pleated front, mother-of-pearl buttons down the placket and mitred double cuffs. The bow tie is black satin, and it is not a perfect match with the silk on the lapels. And for the last time until GoldenEye 31 years later, Bond wears a pocket handkerchief with his dinner suit. Here it is a folded white linen square.