A Navy Shirt and Blue Trousers in Licence to Kill



In Licence to Kill, James Bond wears a blue-on-blue shirt and trousers combination that recalls the look Ian Fleming specified for James Bond in his novels. This outfit, while very full cut, was an appropriate update for the time and Central American locale by costume designer Jodie Tillen.

The dark blue shirt that Timothy Dalton wears here is too big by today’s standards but was very fashionable in 1989. The shirt has a button-front with two chest pockets. The yoke extends down the front to the pockets, where it acts like a large pocket flap that closes with buttons. Bond keeps a pair of sunglasses in his left breast pocket.


Bond’s trousers are faded dark blue and slightly lighter than the shirt. They have triple reverse pleats, slanted side pockets and two rear pockets. Bond wears a black belt and black shoes with his blue outfit.


  1. I agree 100% about the clothes.
    But here, at least, the first of the Bond “rapists” is friendly and gracious looking.
    And with Bond as with life in general I always find those who show a friendly and gracious demeanour eminently preferable to those who show the opposite; ill manners and boorishness.

  2. I think I asked this question somewhere on an older blog post, but not sure which one…
    As someone who seems to be knowledgable about the sartorial side of things (as opposed to me, who reads this blog as a Bond fan, but couldn't tell the difference between a Tom Ford and Primark (slight exaggeration!)) – could you explain why there is general concensus that Dalton can hold himself in a suit, most of the time I have seen him (as bond or otherwise) he is in a suit. Now I understand the low quality of the clothes themselves, but he can't always be in bad suits (other films, red carpet, etc).
    I also read a comment of yours somewhere saying he also fails in casual clothing…?! Does he ever look like what he is wearing he should actually be wearing (though I know a few people who would not complain if he wore nothing…)


  3. Anon1, Dalton doesn't show much interest in clothing, and especially in Licence to Kill his clothing was a result of the current trends. Connery wasn't into clothing either, but he had good help. Dalton didn't have anyone to really help him as Bond. All the other Bond actors are very comfortable in tailored clothing and show a personal interest in it, especially Roger Moore. I've never seen Dalton wear anything impressive.

  4. @Matt – cheers for reply. I suppose he sees clothing as purely functional. It just strikes me as odd that he can wear the period sort of stuff he did in Wuthering Heights, etc, but not do so well in 'real' clothing…

  5. Wow, Dalton looks really good here. Clothes fit the character, story, location, and era, without being, well, like the 1989 Suit detailed earlier.

  6. Matt,on the topic of Bond's summer wardrobe down the years how about covering some of Moore's clothes from The Spy Who Loved Me?

    You did state in an exchange we had earlier (on foot of your blog covering his Ivory Dinner Jacket from Octopussy)that you'd get around to the Cairo sports coat (one of my favourites from the series) by close of June.

  7. Interesting details about the shirt. I guess it was an 80's thing.

    Still, that and the baggy fit aside, Bond looks every bit like like he just walked off the pages of Ian Fleming's books and onto our screens.

  8. In this scene, Bond is carrying a suitcase that contains nearly $5million in cash; then he gives $10,000 to Pam Bouvier (who is quite fetching!) and says “If you’re going to stay and be my executive secretary, you’d better look the part. Here, buy yourself some decent clothes.” Oh, the irony. May want to heed your own advice, Jimbo!

  9. Posted in another thread, but repeating here because it also goes for this outfit, are we seeing clothing that maybe Bond just bought on the fly?

    By this point in the film, all Bond is thinking about is getting back at the guy that maimed his friend, killed his friends wife, and made his friend, (And Bond himself) experience what Bond himself went through on his own wedding day. With that much hatred and anger in the character at that point, looking fashionable is probably one of the last things Bond is thinking about at this point in the film, and later in Ithsmus. He’s just looking to blend into the woodwork so he can get his shot at Sanchez.

    • I totally agree! This is no time for elegance. It would have made it far more unrealistic. Perhaps it would have worked with Moore, but this is a gritty Bond and has no time to go shopping in England.

  10. I honestly don’t have a problem with the way Dalton dresses I’m this film. He wears it well and it was interesting to read that he insisted on picking most of his own clothes. I heard it was his choice to go with all the navy blues and stuff. After reading the articles on him here, it certainly does stand out clothing-wise. It fits for the movie even if it doesn’t for the rest of the series. It looks much better than the skin tight clothing Craig wears in Skyfall. [Shudders]

  11. Did we ever discover what was in Bond’s briefcase (not the suitcases full of cash) he carries with him?

    I always wondered what was in it…

  12. A nice outfit for Bond to wear while still looking the part and being dressed comfortably. Yes, this outfit does indeed go along with the Bond from the novels. I for one like the look of the full blue as this is something I use in my own personal wardrobe. As you put it Matt, “This outfit, while very full cut, was an appropriate update for the time and Central American locale by costume designer Jodie Tillen.” I could have not put it better as Dalton here looks cool but still stylish!


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