James Bond’s navy cashmere double-breasted—slightly short—chesterfield coat with a velvet collar in Live and Let Die is a has many fans. The classic piece made by Conduit Street tailor Cyril Castle was covered thoroughly in the blog Clothes on Film, so I will just direct you to the article there to read about it.
Underneath the chesterfield Bond wears a navy worsted flannel suit made by Cyril Castle. The suit coat wasn’t seen much in the movie, except the double vents can be seen when Roger Moore is swinging around on the fire escape in the Harlem alley. However, Roger Moore wears this suit in many promotional photos as well as in the gun barrel opening, which was also used for The Man with the Golden Gun.
The suit is cut the same as the tropical light grey suit that Bond wears in San Monique. The button-two jacket has a somewhat low button stance, medium-width lapels, soft shoulders, a full chest and a close fit in the chest and waist. It has deep double vents, flared link-button cuffs and straight pockets with flaps. The straight pockets are the only difference in the style of this suit from the grey suit in San Monique, which has Moore’s more typical slanted pockets from this period. The jacket has a classic and timeless English style, with hardly any detail that dates it to the 1970s.
The suit trousers have a darted front with three-button side adjusters, two rear pockets, two cash pockets in front under the waistband, no side pockets and slightly flared trouser legs. The flared trousers are the only aspect of this outfit that dates it to the early 1970s.
The shirt is pale blue poplin with a semi-spread collar, a hidden-button fly placket with one stitching line down the centre and two-button cocktail cuffs, made by Roger Moore’s long-time shirtmaker Frank Foster.
Roger Moore distances himself from the previous two Bonds by wearing a striped tie instead of a solid tie. The tie Moore wears with his navy suit has a navy ground with red and white stripes. This tie is a Royal Navy regimental tie from Benson & Clegg, appropriately worn here by the naval commander that James Bond is. The stripes go up from the wearer’s right hip to left shoulder. This is the traditional British direction for tie stripes. This direction harmonises well with the left-over-right buttoning of a man’s suit. Also, since the breast pocket is on the upper left (and ticket pockets are placed on the lower right) the British stripe direction follows that. I also believe that this direction subtly helps draw attention up toward the wearer’s face, since most people in the Western world read from left to right. The majority of James Bond’s striped ties throughout the series follow the traditional British direction.
Along with the chesterfield, Bond wears black leather gloves to keep warm. And the black gloves match his black tassel slip-ons. Roger Moore is a tall man at 6’1″, though he wears shoes with noticeably tall “Cuban” heels, which were trendy in the 1970s.