Navy Blazers: More Than Navy Suit Jackets with Metal Buttons


What is or isn’t a blazer? By one definition, a blazer is a tailored jacket in navy—or less traditionally in other solid colours—with metal buttons. By another definition it’s a tailored jacket with thick, bright stripes, and it may or may not have metal buttons. Only the first type of blazer is relevant to James Bond. “Blazer” is neither another term for a tailored odd jacket nor a suit jacket, though the term has increasingly been used as such since traditional blazers have because less popular. Bond’s blazers are always blue, from the almost black Royal Navy uniform shade to a bright marine blue.

Single-breasted or double-breasted

Blazers can be either single-breasted or double-breasted. All of James Bond’s single-breasted blazers have two buttons and double vents. Sean Connery wears three similar single-breasted blazers in Dr. No, Thunderball and Diamonds Are Forever. Roger Moore wears two similar single-breasted blazers in The Spy Who Loved Me and Moonraker and another in single-breasted blazer in A View to a Kill.


Bond’s double-breasted blazers all have six buttons. Some of Bond’s double-breasted blazers have two to button in the traditional configuration with the top row placed further apart. Other blazers have three to button like a naval reefer jacket, which makes the jacket look rather columnar and give it a higher buttoning point. However, this style looks appropriate for a naval commander. The double-breasted blazers all have double vents like the single-breasted blazers have. George Lazenby wears a double-breasted blazer in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, Roger Moore wears double-breasted blazers in The Man with the Golden Gun, Moonraker and For Your Eyes Only and Pierce Brosnan wears a double-breasted blazer in GoldenEye, which has the last appearance of the blazer in the Bond series.

The cloth

Blazers can be made in a variety of different cloths, but it’s best if the cloth has some character. The most common cloth for a blazer is wool serge. Serge is worsted wool or combination worsted and woollen in an even twill weave with a 45° wale. Heavier serge with more defined twill wales looks better as a blazer. Serge is one of the most common materials for a suit, but in navy it can be a great choice for a jacket on it’s own. Serge blazers are the most formal type of blazers due to the cloth being the same as what is often used for a business suits and military uniforms. Roger Moore’s blazer in For Your Eyes Only is likely made of serge.


Hopsack wool is a worsted commonly used for warm-weather blazers. Hopsack is a basketweave and is open and very breathable. Roger Moore’s double-breasted blazer in The Man with the Golden Gun and single-breasted blazers in The Spy Who Loved MeMoonraker and A View to a Kill are hopsack.

Doeskin makes for the ideal cool-weather blazer. It’s a densely napped flannel woolen with a sheen, not the skin from a deer. It is woven in an even twill weave like serge, but the weave is traditionally not visible through the thick nap. Sean Connery’s three blazers in Dr. No, Thunderball and Diamonds Are Forever may be doeskin, even though he wears two of them in tropical locales. Roger Moore’s double-breasted blazer in Moonraker also appears to be doeskin. George Lazenby’s blazer in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service is likely doeskin as well.

Cavalry Twill is another good wool cloth for cool-weather blazers. It is similar to serge in that it’s a wool twill, but it has a steep, pronounced double-rib. Like serge, it is reminiscent of military uniforms, which makes it perfect for a metal-buttoned blazer.


Other cloths can make excellent blazers. A soft, thick cashmere is excellent in cold weather whilst silk and linen are exceptional in warmer weather. Plain-weave worsteds can work for blazers but are not as good of a choice for a blazer because they don’t have much character or interest.

The buttons

Some follow the definition that a blazer must have metal buttons to be a blazer. Metal buttons reflect the maritime heritage of the garment. All of James Bond’s blazers have metal buttons, whether brass (polished or unpolished), polished nickel or gunmetal. Pewter buttons are a subtler alternative to brighter metals. At the moment, blazers with metal buttons are unfashionable. Some think they are for old men, some think they are for preps, and others think they are for security guards. The classic metal buttons have solid blank with a shank (metal loop) that sews onto the jacket. Crests should only be worn on the buttons if the crest has a personal significance. Naval motifs on the buttons are common, and Bond wears shanked buttons with such a motif in GoldenEye. Many of Bond’s shanked buttons are simply plain metal.


In The Spy Who Loved Me and Moonraker, the buttons are metal (nickel on the single-breasted blazers and brass on the double-breasted blazer) with four holes, and the buttons are sewn on with a contrasting navy thread. These buttons have a more modern look than shanked buttons, but they keep the blazer tradition by sticking with metal. Enamel buttons in a metal case are another classic choice for a blazer, but Bond has not worn these.

I believe that buttons other than metal buttons can be used on navy jackets, though whether or not the jackets still qualify as “blazers” is debatable. These buttons need to be different from suit jacket buttons, so that excludes navy or black buttons in plastic or corozo. Horn buttons in any medium to light shades of brown work. Unpolished horn gives the jacket a less assuming look whilst polished horn, particularly in light shades, can give a shiny gold effect closer to traditional blazer buttons. Smoke mother-of-pearl buttons are great on navy odd jackets and give a blazer look without the metal buttons. Smoke mother-of-pearl buttons are silvery, shiny and almost look like metal, but their variegation makes them more interesting. For lighter-weight jackets in hopsack or linen, blue or white mother-of-pearl buttons are an excellent choice as well, whilst darker horn buttons may look too heavy. For doeskin and cashmere jackets, wood buttons can give the jackets are more rustic look.

Whether or not a navy jacket with non-metal buttons is technically a “blazer”, it can still be a wonderful odd jacket. If the navy odd jacket were to return to the Bond series, this is the form I could see it returning in rather than as a traditional blazer.

The details

Blazers are cut and fit the same as suit jackets. Some people prefer a looser fit for their blazers, sometimes so they can wear a jumper underneath, but there’s no rule that says a blazer should but cut differently than a suit jacket should. All of James Bond’s blazers are structured, cut and fit exactly the same as the suit jackets he wears within the same films as the respective blazers. Most of James Bond’s blazers have details that make them more than ordinary suit jackets with metal buttons. The blazers in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, Diamonds Are Forever and Moonraker have swelled edges for a sportier look. All of Bond’s blazers have double vents to follow British tradition, though blazers in the American have single vents. The double vents are key to wearing a blazer like Bond.

Bond wears a navy blazer on his date with Miss Taro
Bond wears a navy blazer on his date with Miss Taro

The pockets on Bond’s blazers are rarely ordinary straight, flapped pockets, though that is what the single-breasted blazer in A View to a Kill and the double-breasted blazers in For Your Eyes Only and GoldenEye have. All three of Sean Connery’s blazers have open patch pockets for not only the hip pockets but for the breast pocket as well. Patch pockets are the most casual type of jacket pocket and are never found on business suits. Roger Moore’s double-breasted blazer in Moonraker has patch pockets on the hips with flaps. The breast pocket on these blazers is an ordinary welt breast pocket since an open patch breast pocket wouldn’t match the flapped hip pockets, and a flapped patch breast pocket would look rather heavy on the chest.


Many of Bond’s blazers have slanted “hacking” pockets, which are taken from the double-breasted military greatcoat rather than from the hacking jacket in the case of the blazer. Some of Bond’s blazers with slanted pockets also have ticket pockets.

When and where to wear a blazer

The navy blazer has proven to be one of the most versatile garments. In some parts of America, blazers are appropriate business dress, but they are essentially a type of sports coat and are best worn socially. Bond mostly wears his blazers socially, and he only wears a blazer to the office in Thunderball because he’s hurrying in from the country. Blazers are the most formal of all sports coats due to being a solid, dark colour. A blazer isn’t all that far off from being a navy suit jacket, which is what allows it to be worn in dressier settings. Like a navy suit, the navy blazer is great both during the day and in the evening.


Blazers have a maritime heritage and are always appropriate by the water. Bond wears blazers on tropical islands in Dr. No and Thunderball, aboard the RMS Queen Elizabeth sunken in Victoria Harbour in The Man with the Golden Gun, and in the Mediterranean in The Spy Who Loved Me, For Your Eyes Only and GoldenEye.

Blazers do not need to be worn near water. For social occasions in the city they don’t stick out too much amongst the suits. In the country they’re perfect for drinks at the country club.

What to wear with a blazer

James Bond has worn many different colours in his trouser with his blazers. The trousers worn with a blazer need to contrast the blazer to avoid looking like a mismatched suit, and thus navy, black and charcoal trousers do not pair well. Sean Connery pairs his blazers with dark grey trousers—a shade lighter than charcoal—to dress up the outfit as much as he can. The less contrast there is between the jacket and trousers the more formal the outfit is.

James Bond has worn medium grey, light grey, tan, beige, stone (light taupe) and white trousers with his blazers. Any shade of grey is a great choice for the city or a dressier look, particularly in the evening. Tan, beige and stone give the blazer a sportier and more casual look, and these colours are best worn in the daytime. White trousers, give the blazer a nautical look and should only be worn with a blazer on the water, where Bond wears his blazer with white trousers in The Man with the Golden Gun and The Spy Who Loved Me. Even when worn by the water, white trousers with a blazer can come off a costume-like. Cream and British tan are other great choices to wear that Bond has not worn with his blazers.

Navy hopsack blazer with beige cavalry twill trousers in Moonraker
Navy hopsack blazer with beige cavalry twill trousers in Moonraker

The trousers Bond wears with his blazers are always wool, in woolen flannel for shades of grey and cavalry twill or gabardine for earth tones and white. Tropical and fresco wool, silk, linen and cotton gabardine are other great trouser materials to pair with a blazer, particularly hopsack and lighter serge blazers. Cotton chinos are acceptable with a hopsack blazer, but they should be pressed.

The options for shirts are ties to wear with a navy blazer are limitless. Bond usually wears similar shirts and ties that he would wear with a navy suit. Bond occasionally wears his blazers without a tie for a more casual look. The colour of the shoes should complement the trousers. Oxfords can dress up the outfit whilst slip-ons can dress down the outfit. The many different items that can be worn with a navy blazer to dress it up or down contribute to the incredible versatility of the garment.


  1. “If the navy odd jacket were to return to the Bond series, this is the form I could see it returning in rather than as a traditional blazer.”

    -I would agree to that – I could well imagine Craig wearing that sort of jacket, but not the traditional version with brass buttons (not right on him). Perhaps combined with grey flannel or fresco trousers (depending on the respective location’s climate), but definitely not with light brown cavalry twill trousers. Instead better some white / cream ones (linen or tropical wool).

    Connery’s and Lazenby’s blazers are fine and have a very good fit.

  2. My go to smart casual garment. My navy blazer has silver buttons and is a true dark navy. Perfect for a dressed down Friday at the office or a social event. Not ideal for business but on a days where I have no appointments it more then replaces a suit. I have a another Blazer on order with patch pockets like Sean Connery’s blazer but with more modern gold/brown buttons instead of metal buttons.

  3. “At the moment, blazers with metal buttons are unfashionable. Some think they are for old men, some think they are for preps, and others think they are for security guards. ” Don’t you wonder who first came up with this nonsense? And while we’re at it, since when is it “uncool” to go to a college preparatory school?

    • I think it’s me you are aiming at. And you’re right – I did say that IMO Roger Moore looked like an Etonian in his blazer. And what I had in mind stating this was his MR blazer whith brown cavalry trousers which I particularly dislike. And yes – to me it looks uncool if a grown-up already in his fifties wears an outfit which makes him look like a pupil in school. Nothing wrong with Eton itself. But since Moore was the “Tongue-in-cheek-Bond” perhaps that was not meant to be taken seriously but rather some kind of parody (which most of his Bond performance was). IMO Connery and Lazenby look far better in their blazers because theirs have a more military touch (and that’s where the blazer comes from).

    • Renard, Moore had worn blazers long before and after his Bond years and I expect he wears them because he likes them and it isn’t anything tongue in cheek. It’s a garment I’d indelibly associate with him and so would many others. Indeed, I recall yet another swipe at his (allegedly non-existent acting abilities) when someone or other said he’d win an Oscar whenever they opened a category entitled “Best Blazer and Slacks” . As to who wore a blazer best, that’s subjective and they were never meant to be a cool garment, just classic and elegant.

  4. Thanks, Matt. This is article is great resource about one of my favorite garments!

    I work in a Mid-Atlantic American city and have no qualms about wearing my blazer to the office so long as I am not required to be in court or meet with clients. Given that most offices (even law firms!) have gone to business casual five days-a-week, I’m not sure the old distinctions are still relevant, at least where I live and work.

  5. Matt,
    Besides being informative and fun, your blog has helped me crystallize my ideas as to what is wrong with present-day men’s fashion – fundamentally, it is TIMID and wallows in a form of perverse “reverse snobbery”. I think of the comments I have read on this blog over the years – Moore was too fashionable, Brosnan’s ties were garish, plaids make men look like car salesmen, tweeds and blazers with brass buttons are old-mannish and preppy, etc. After we eliminate many of the classic staples of the male wardrobe, we are left with nondescript dark suits and ties, and we try to compensate for their lack of imagination by embracing outlandish cuts .

    • So what do you want instead – real snobbery? Blatancy and swaggering? I don’t want that. Cary Grant dressed according to what his father told him: “They should see you and not your suit – that should be secondary.” And that’s the reason why I like the pared down look of Connery’s and Lazenby’s Bond wardrobe. LESS IS MORE.

      “After we eliminate many of the classic staples of the male wardrobe”
      -I don’t know what you mean exactly by “classic staples”. And I don’t see that there has been an elimination – there’s rather a kind of reinterpretation going on everytime. Some reinterpretations are good, some are not. But they all come and go. Fundamentally the suit has kept its overall shape and appearance over the (many) years which have passed since its emergence. And IMO it is – forgive me – no castration of the classic navy blazer if you only replace the brass buttons.

      And the “classic staples” as I understand them are still there – the dinner jacket, the tailcoat, the blazer, tweed jacket etc. Perhaps some details changed over the years but I don’t see any fundamental changes (and least of all an “elimination”). And today we are in a more or less happy situation because there has been a revival of classic clothes (and also an appreciation of bespoke tailoring!) already some time ago. 70s and 80s were far worse with regard to that.

      Don’t get me wrong – I don’t like current fashion at all which of course includes the current way suits are cut. But “elimination” is perhaps too strong a word.

  6. Matt – excellent write-up and defense of the Navy Blazer. Though I must admit I retired mine when I turned 40. The reason I think it is viewed as being for old men, frat boys, and security guards is because that is who I always see wear them. And not usually worn well either. Also, perhaps the end of conscription, at least in the USA in 1973, led to a couple of generations not really open to or used to wearing clothes that had a military background. I do see the concept badly worn a lot around Los Angeles and the Bay Area, with a suit jacket paired with jeans. The checked sport coat did make a brief, seemingly late-Mad Men-inspired return in the last two years, but I haven’t seen them much recently. Anyway, first the cardigan, next the turtleneck, then the white dinner jacket – maybe the navy blazer will be on Craig’s next clothes-revival list.

    Finally – that Dr. No blazer just looks near perfect to my eyes. And Roger’s TSWLM blazer is just perfectly fit around his body. Superb tailoring on both. The FYEO one looks oddly poor for Hayward.

    • “that Dr. No blazer just looks near perfect to my eyes. And Roger’s TSWLM blazer is just perfectly fit around his body. Superb tailoring on both. The FYEO one looks oddly poor for Hayward.” – I couldn’t agree more! For all the criticisms he gets on this blog, Angelo Roma could cut a blazer!

      • Angelo’s blazers are his best pieces because the dark colour downplays the width of the lapels. The blazer is the best piece from The Spy Who Loved Me, though the white trousers with wide flares are not something I’d advise anyone to wear.

    • The Angelo blazer is outstanding. One of my favorite pieces of tailored clothing in the series. I have a hopsack blazer with metal buttons that is cut very similarly, although mine has wide peak lapels. A bit of an oddity, I realize, but it’s a unique piece that is more interesting than the standard navy blazer.

  7. Love the blazer from Dr. No. Why can’t I find atheltic jackets like that anymore? Everything is high gorge, high buttoning butt clenching crap these days. Thanks for the write up.

    • Arne,
      Try looking at vintage blazers on eBay or in thrift shops – that’s where I buy all of my tailored clothes these days, for the very reasons you so eloquently outlined!

  8. Surprising you don’t see more Blazers with metal buttons with four holes rather than shanked these days. A more modern look as Matt has said in the article but in keeping with the blazer’s heritage. I think I’ll have similar buttons put on my next blazer, like Roger Moore’s from TSWLM and MR.

  9. The only thing one can do is ignore the background interference, tune to one’s own frequency and proceed in this manner. That’s the one compensation in ageing; you care less and less about all this. Luckily, in my case, I started from a good base as I never cared that much from the outset! The blazer is a most versatile and flattering garment and a must in any true gentleman’s wardrobe and I’m having my tailor make me a new SB version cut along the style of Hayward’s classic low button, natural shoulder model. As for this recent ignorant trend in referring to all non matching tailored jackets as “blazers”, well, it just reflects the extreme crassness of our current era!

  10. Hi Matt
    So Serge is simply a twill weave with 45 degree wale? Does that mean that, for example, when I see samples at my local MTM store of say, 11oz super 100s in plain twill, does that mean this is serge? Likewise for their Town and Country 13oz worsted twills (I appreciate you would need to see the sample?)?
    I can refer you to if you need to see the samples (if your willing to help me out here :))
    Also I’m curious but what is the difference between flannel cloths and worsted twill/worsted serge?
    Forgive my naivety.

    • Serge is a wool in a 45° twill that looks the same on both sides, and it’s typically worsted. Most 45° twill suitings are serge, though there’s prunelle which is a warp-faced 45° twill. Flannel is typically woven the same as worsted serge, but it has a different finish. Woolen flannel is made with carded yarns in the same weave as serge, but it’s weave is mostly obscured. Worsted flannel is like serge with a napped finish, and you can see the weave through the nap.

  11. There are plenty of theories on the origins on the name of the blazer. My favourite is that colours of St John’s College, Cambridge, England are a bright red. Children at the college’s choir school, and undergrads at the college rowing club (renamed Lady Margaret, after a fatal rowing accident) also wear bright red jackets. Many years ago they were described by a writer; “their jackets ablaze”. The name stuck.

  12. I second that! Check out eBay, it’ll be refreshing to see so many REAL suits. Just be careful with the 80’s and 90’s low-gorge relics. I reccommend you search for suits from Marks & Spencer there!

  13. “So what do you want instead – real snobbery?” For what it’s worth, one of the few traits book-Bond and movie-Bond had in common until recently was a touch of snobbery. I also don’t understand why the MR SB blazer is more “schoolboysh” than Connery’s SB blazers.

    • Good point Matt! It reinforces my conviction that the real issue is not the blazer’s cut or the trousers that go with it, but rather the actor himself and his interpretation of the 007 character. On a related note, consider this: in 1977 the two biggest movies were TSWLM and Star Wars – A New Hope. They were both bright, fun, upbeat fantasies which provided a measure of welcome relief from the grim drumbeat of real-world news (stagflation, oil shortages, plane hijackings, etc.) Now we have a similarly grim real-world situation, but both Bond and Star Wars have become “darkandgritty” and a lot less fun. It’s almost as if even the purveyors of fantasy are afraid to allow themselves a little sunny optimism. I wonder whether this cultural pessimism is part of what drives “Moore hatred” on this and other 007 blogs.

    • One more point I wish to add to my previous post – the Moore films were indeed repetitive, but the formula “Suave British hero defeats the forces of evil, saves the world, and gets the girl” reflected not just optimism but also a certain cultural self-confidence that is sorely lacking today in the face of the jihadi threat.

    • Dan, I’m curious, what about The Force Awakens made you think it was dark and gritty? This may be off topic, but I found it was a very welcome flashback to the fun of the original Star Wars trilogy.

  14. Yes, but Connery never had any schoolboyish air – the same is true for Craig, Dalton and Lazenby. That is what I was referring to when I said the blazer combination Moore wore in MR (with cavalry twill trousers) certainly would not work on them.

    And just one other remark: Of course I also wear blazers (certainly without brass buttons so perhaps rather odd jackets in navy blue) and enjoy their versatility. I don’t have anything against the garment itself but it all depends on the style (cut etc.) and how they are combined. With flannel / fresco / white ducks / linen trousers: nice. With cavalry twill, baggy chinos, corduroy: not so nice.

    As to the snobbery issue: I think you are right about Fleming/ literary Bond being a snob. But wouldn’t you prefer him being elegant instead? Snobbery means lacking style and being rather bad-mannered.

    • May I ask what the problem you have with beige cavalry twill trousers and a blazer is? Do you also not like gabardine trousers with a blazer? I agree about chinos and corduroy.

      Snobbery doesn’t mean lacking style. It’s about the attitude. A clothing snob may think he’s better than other people because he thinks he dresses more elegantly than other people. A clothing snob may very well have a better sense of style than the majority of people. Fleming’s Bond was indeed a snob who, however, lacked a good sense of style.

  15. Cavalry twill trousers: IMO they create a “grandpa” look (especially beige ones). Again: Don’t get me wrong – I loved my grandpas, but I didn’t (and don’t) want to look like them. And I know that there might be people which quite fond of c.t. trousers – perfectly all right, each to his own. Gabardine is a bit better but also not my favourite. The thing is that flannel etc. make for a more sporty look and that’s what I like about the blazer.

    Snobbery and style: Perhaps we can settle on that extreme snobbery results in bad style. Excessive flamboyance and bravado makes a person appearing ridiculous. To me that is synonymous with bad style.
    I am quite uncomfortable with the word “snobbery” – perhaps we should use “extravagance” instead. A TOUCH of extravagance always upgrades a look.

    • I’ve always associated flannel with older men than I have with cavalry twill, but you may have experienced different where you’re from. Cavalry twill is by far the sportier cloth.

      I don’t see how snobbery has anything to do with one’s style. It’s only the poor attitude about style, whether good style or bad. I completely agree with you on extravagance.

    • What’s interesting in the midst of this rather odd debate about twill weave trousers is that Connery wore these with his sports coat in both Goldfinger and again in Thunderball as well as with a polo shirt in the latter movie. I haven’t heard any silly “old man” labels placed on him though?

  16. Today I see many young people wearing flannel trousers. Just google “grey flannel trousers”. And then do the same for “Cavalry twill trousers”…

    • I suspect most of our grandfathers were better dressed than most of the young people we see in the pages of Esquire and GQ; I know mine was.

  17. Personally, I am all-for a single breasted navy-blue blazer with white trousers and tropical white shoes, or blue canvas plimsolls. A single-breasted avoids the “costume-like look” Matt describes above, and can be worn away from water. Hugh Laurie pulls off the double-breasted, white shoes and trousers, black walking-cane and Panama hat look very well in Jeeves & Wooster.
    For grass sport, I would wear dark grey or charcoal trousers with my blue blazer.
    You could be a bit daring, leave off the tie, and fold your white shirt collar over the outside of the blazer… Another idea is loafers and no socks with a blazer, or even Bermuda shorts and loafers/ canvas plimsolls.
    I remember a young Michael Caine looking good in a blue blazer.

  18. My speaking of canvas deck shoes with pleated trousers and turn-ups reminds me of the abstract St Ives artist Ben Nicholson. The Tate has photographs of him dressed in such attire, taken by his wife Barbara Hepworth.

  19. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with Navy Blazers and I don’t see them as out of fashion. You still see them in current Hollywood films. I could see Craig wearing one, but maybe with metal buttons with 4 holes like regular buttons or with mock metal buttons which I have seen recently on a ready to wear blazers. He is known for wearing odd jackets in non-bond films eg. Layer Cake to different degrees of success. But let’s hope he doesn’t ever wear a business suit jacket like he has in the past in a Bond film.

  20. I know Never Say Never Again is unofficial and not part of the series, but Connery did wear a Blazer in that film too. It looked very similar to Roger Moore’s in A View To A Kill with it’s straight flapped pockets and brass buttons. Does anyone know the tailor Connery used at that time ?

  21. “What’s interesting in the midst of this rather odd debate about twill weave trousers is that Connery wore these with his sports coat in both Goldfinger and again in Thunderball as well as with a polo shirt in the latter movie. I haven’t heard any silly “old man” labels placed on him though?”

    -The polo shirt / c.t.t. combination looks a bit dated on Connery, too. And he put it together rather haphazardly (He has to hurry up – the scene before he wears nothing but a silk dressing gown. And the black polo is chosen to camouflage him at night). And with the sports coat the cavalry twill trousers work better because the outfit is worn in the country and rather informal. If you combine it with a blazer it’s a completely different animal.

  22. Are most blazers that people wear navy? Because my dad only wears navy blazers with jeans and gingham shirts to work, even though he is a venture capitalist. And even funnier, I’ve never seen him put on a suit in my entire life! Why is it that when you see buisnessmen wear blazers, they are 90% navy? I’ve seen a couple gray and beige blazers, but other than those three, it’s very rare to see a blazer of any other color. Do you like single-breasted or double breasted blazers better? I like double breasted blazers better because it adds a bit of a stylish and formal edge to a naturally casual outfit. Which one would you prefer and why?

    • Most blazers are navy. They can be other colours, but it’s unusual. They are navy because of their naval heritage. Navy is also more formal than other colours. Single-breasted blazers are much easier to wear and more versatile, though I would recommend not wearing any blazer with jeans.

  23. Yesterday my dad wore something really weird to work: A navy blazer with navy pinstripe pants and a blue shirt. I think that the look of a solid blazer with pinstripe pants looks horrible. Especially since the pants are of the same base color as the blazer(navy and navy). When other people would look at him, they would probably think,”Can he tell that there are pinstripes on his pants?” I would if I were not his son. ” The whole look just screamed “Ayy LMAO!” No matter how much I told him and tried to convince him that the look is horrible, he wouldn’t listen to me and went on to wear it. I don’t know what reactions he got, since I was at school while he was at work, but they were all probably, “What the hell is he doing?” or “Ayy LMAO!”. I would probably wear a blazer with my khakis or my chinos, but not dress pants, because I feel that wearing a blazer. My chinos are gray and my khakis are tan. Obviously you don’t wear a blazer with pants of the same color. What kinds of pants would you wear a blazer with? What do you think of my Dad’s look and just wearing solid blazers with pinstripe pants in general? I think it looks horrible?

  24. Do you think a navy blazer made of tropical wool can work and is an acceptable fabric for blazers, because I have a tropical wool blazer and I’m wondering if it could serve a similar use to a hopsack blazer?

  25. Matt what film did Bond wear light grey trousers with his navy blazer? I’m having trouble placing it.

  26. Thanks for such a detailed article!

    I personally never really had a proper blazer with contrasting buttons, but sometimes on casual Fridays, I enjoy wearing my navy suit jacket with odd gray flannel trousers

  27. Matt, do you think grey mother of pearl buttons could work on a mid grey, plain weave worsted suit jacket ? Or do you think they would go better with a different cloth and would stand out too much here ?

    • I think grey mother of pearl buttons could work on a grey worsted suit, but I think they’d be better matched on a suit with some sheen like a mohair or silk blend.

  28. To the gentlemen, please fill in the blank

    When commissioning your cutter to have your first blazer made, the blazer should be made out of ________.

    A. Serge
    B. Hopsack
    C. Doeskin
    D. Polyester
    E. Flannel

    Thank you for your cooperation

      • A heavy hopsack…

        I recently just ordered the Dr. No blazer from Mason and sons, however i do think some navy blazers are more casual than others.

        I saw in downtown abbey ; one of the protagonists wearing an eight pin rather than the usual six….


  29. Matt, how do you feel about blazers in solid colors other than navy, as long as they’re made of the right cloth (e.g., hopsack) and have the right details (e.g., metal buttons, patch pockets, swelled edges)? I used to see them in colors like light gray, light blue, burgundy, but it’s been a while.

    • I don’t have a problem with them, but I find them more challenging to wear than navy. I think they’re better without metal buttons but with all the other details. But in classic colours like burgundy and forest green they’re more difficult to pull off.

    • Olive green works, but very casual. Brown can also work, but be careful on trousers. Burgundy? Save it for another extra velvet dinner coat of you have (or hate) money.

      Otherwise, really, it’s hard to pull off without eyebrows being raised by 15 inches.

  30. I know from experience my dad wears a button 2 navy blazer with slacks and suede oxfords for work with striped shirts (the ones with the non contrasting collar and cuffs) without the tie (as at his work it’s a hygiene risk).

  31. Matt – can you please dispel my ignorance: What does ”swelled edges” refer to? Does it mean the cloth is thicker at the outside edges of a coat, for example, the sleeve ends, skirt ends, or lapels and the front of the coat where it buttons?


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