In GoldenEye, Bond’s navy suit from Brioni survives many action scenes. The cloth is navy birdseye woven by Schofield & Smith in Huddersfield, as diagrammed below. Birdseye is a pattern that derives from a specific birdseye weave, and it’s usually made of worsted wool. The pattern is so small that from a distance it appears solid, but when the colours are laid out alternating two and two in both the warp and the weft, the pattern comes alive:
The proper pattern combines with the birdseye weave results in larger circles and smaller squares between the circles. Because the small squares emerge from underneath the yarns surrounding them, the squares are may be engulfed by the surrounding yarns and often almost disappear. If the colours of the pattern were split up between the warp (the lengthwise yarns) and the weft (the crosswise yarns), the pattern would end up considerably different:
Yes, the weaves of the above two patterns are exactly the same!
The birdseye suit in GoldenEye is cut like a typical Brioni suit in their “Augusto” model, but it is detailed with some influence from Savile Row, London’s prestigious street of tailors. From an article in The European Magazine in 1995, costume designer Linday Hemming said, “Even in the Connery days in the 1960’s, Italian design was seen as cool. Now we seem to have come full circle, with Italians making suits to look as if they came from Savile Row—except with more modern fabrics and more efficient skills.” The shoulders are padded and straight, with roping at the sleeve head. The cut through the body is full, which was fashionable in the 1990s, but it is not baggy. This suit has a button three front, slanted pockets with a ticket pocket, four buttons on each cuff and double vents. Bond wears the suit coat unbuttoned.
The trousers have double reverse pleats, tapered legs, turn-ups and are worn with a belt. Bond’s belt is black with a brass buckle and coordinates with his black Church’s Diplomat semi-brogue oxfords. The shirt is ivory with a moderate spread collar, front placket and double cuffs, and the tie is a geometric pattern of navy and gold. Both the shirt and tie are from Sulka.
On 6 March 2007 one example (of thirty made) of this suit was put up for auction at Bonhams in Knightsbridge but was not sold. It later sold for £2,640 on 16 June 2009. The example shown at the auction included a six-button waistcoat as part of the suit, though it was not used in the movie. The picture from the Bonhams catalogue can be seen below: