More Spectre Filming in London

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Spectre London Tom Ford Suit

Spectre has been filming in London as of late, and James Bond is appropriately dressed for the city in a grey pinstripe suit and “Crombie” coat. There are many photos at Daily Mail. The Tom Ford suit is a combination of styles from Quantum of Solace and Skyfall, but it’s also something new. The suit is dark grey with narrow-spaced white pinstripes, which makes the suit look medium grey overall.

The suit jacket goes back to the Quantum of Solace buttoning arrangement of three buttons with the lapels rolled to the middle button. The lapels are narrow, but not overly so. The shoulders are straight with a little padding, the chest is clean and the waist is very suppressed, with only a little pulling at the button. The fit is much cleaner than the fit in Skyfall. The jacket has a single vent and slightly slanted pockets. All of each cuff’s four buttons are fastened, something unusual—but an improvement—for Craig’s Bond’s who usually leaves the last button open on his Tom Ford suits. The last buttonhole is longer than the rest, as usual for Tom Ford’s suits.

The biggest problem with the suit jacket is its length. Like the suit jackets in Skyfall, it’s about an inch too short—or perhaps two inches too short if you want a traditional English length. The too-short jacket emphasises his hips more and takes away from his masculine physique. In addition to being fashionable, the shorter length may be done to make Craig look taller. Overall, the fit is a huge improvement over the suits in Skyfall, and costumer designer Jany Temime has corrected some of the mistakes she made in her first Bond film.

The trousers have a flat front with side adjusters and turn-ups. Turn-ups with flat front trousers has a long tradition in America, and now with Bond since he has been wearing non-pleated suit trousers with turn-ups since The World Is Not Enough. The legs are narrow, but they have enough room to allow Bond to move around without constraint. The rise looks extremely low, but the trousers also appear to be sagging. Even with the sagging, the rise is still lower than it should be to ensure that no shirt and tie show beneath the jacket’s fastened button. They don’t look particularly comfortable around the fork.

The white shirt has a point collar—which is rather un-British—and double cuffs. The tie is grey and may be solid or have a discreet pattern. The tie is tied in a four-in-hand knot with a well-formed dimple. Bond’s shoes are are black five-eyelet, cap-toe derby shoes on a chiselled last with Dainite studded rubber soles, and most likely the Crockett & Jones Norwich model. Bond also wears Tom Ford sunglasses in some photos.

Spectre London Tom Ford Crombie Coat

The navy “Crombie coat” is made by Tom Ford in Crombie’s famous style. The “Crombie coat” is essentially a three-quarter length chesterfield, and most classically in navy. Crombie has long been so well known for making this type of topcoat that the style is universally known by the brand name. Tom Ford only sets this coat apart from Crombie’s models with his curved “barchetta” breast pocket.

The topcoat is fitted with straight shoulders, a clean chest and a suppressed waist. The front is darted. In following the classic Crombie style, Bond’s Tom Ford topcoat has a navy velvet collar, a fly front with three large hidden buttons, straight pockets with flaps, a single vent and three buttons on the cuffs. Bond only fastens the middle button, which detracts from the elegance of the fly front because the top and bottom buttons are visible. And if the purpose of wearing a topcoat is to stay warm, why only fasten one button? It looks too tight to have the top button fastened anyway, which makes this a poorly fitted coat. The sleeves are also too short. The sleeves on an outercoat should be long enough to cover the shirt sleeves but not get in the way of the hands. Sleeves should be longer for the most warmth. The navy three-quarter coat with a velvet collar recalls Roger Moore’s double-breasted chesterfield in Live and Let Die. It’s just one of a few elements of Bond’s wardrobe in Spectre that has similarities to the clothes in Live and Let Die.

33 COMMENTS

  1. I very much like this outfit. Not QoS level, which are my favourite of the series, but certainly not Skyfall level, which just so happen to be among my least favourite. Like you said, a nice middle ground.

    I especially love that coat. I’ve always liked Crombie coats, and this one is indeed gorgeous! Yes the sleeves maybe could be a little longer, but the rest of the coat is cut slim enough that it could almost be a jacket so this doesn’t bother me so much.

    Goodness, I’m really hot and cold about all the outfits in this film so far. I can’t wait to watch it and see the suits in action so I can form a full opinion!

  2. I agree the fit of the suit is an improvement, even over the previous suits from Spectre.

    So, this is not the coat he wears on the boat scene? He wears this one in M’s office, right?

    • From the photos I’ve seen, he wears this coat on the boat and in M’s office. He may wear it in different parts of the film, or maybe all the scenes with this coat are in the same part of the film, just filmed at different times.

    • It looked the the same to me too, but I remember you described the boat coat as a Chesterfield in the ajb007 forum back then. I know the difference between the two is in in length only, but since you called it a Crombie coat here on the blog, I thought maybe it is a different one.

  3. I believe this style of coat is called a Covert Coat. Usually available with a normal collar of the same cloth as the rest of the coat as well as this style with the velvet. I like this particular style of coat with the normal collar in a nice fawn colour.
    I can see you’re point about the Live and Let Die connection Matt. Do you think coat might be Cashmere too?
    Cheers
    Ryan

    • Just remembered , the Covert Coat usually has a ticket pocket as well which is where this one differs.

      • Covert coats are made of covert cloth (a mid-weight steep twill) have four rows of stitching at the hem, cuffs and pocket flaps. They don’t have buttons on the sleeves.

        It could possibly be part cashmere, but I think it looks too stiff to be all cashmere. Cashmere would not be a good choice if there will be any action in this coat.

  4. Everything looks good to me except the trouser rise, but again, it’s difficult to comment on such matters based on a few on-set photos.

  5. Well, it is an improvement. The jacket is still too short by an inch, the legs too tapered, and the trousers look a bit short. But an improvement over the fashion I have seen for the last 3-4 years. Hopefully this reflects a shift.

    One of the regulars on this blog (I am sorry, I do not recall who) previously observed that the suits from Goldeneye-on look brand new, never worn before. This one, as I suspect all SPECTRE suits will, contines this unfortunate trend.

    Also, Craig’s hands looks huge and old.

  6. “All of each cuff’s four buttons are fastened, something unusual—but an improvement—for Craig’s Bond’s who usually leaves the last button open on his Tom Ford suits. ”

    At last !
    Definitely an improvement.
    Maybe by the time Craig reaches Roger Moore’s age for a ‘swan song’ will we witness some appropriate suits ?

    Let’s face it, I think we are trying to instill some self-inflicted indulgence in our appreciation of Craig’s suits, as there is little we can do anyway. Apart from a slight improvement in QoS, the rest is honestly disappointing. Proportions a simply overlooked, there is clearly an effort to let Craig look taller, hence the too narrow trousers, and the too short, buttock-revealing jackets. Even the shoes, albeit from great brands, look ridiculous on him.

    And the cherry on the top is that the actor, although certainly a good one (‘but miscast a James Bond’, I know I reapeat myself….) is not ‘cloth-conscious’, as Moore and Brosnan would have been. The result is that he looks
    stiff and not at ease with what he is wearing.
    Just no sense of style, in my humble opinion. Full stop.
    I and badly miss that from Bond(s)

    Even good old Roger, with the outlandish flares, wide lapels, shirt collars and sometimes questionable colours looked at ease with these extravaganzas. Non wonder, considering that he was involved in desiging Brett Sinclair’s suits and was under contract to promote a cloth brand in the 1960s. Anyone who remembers which one is welcome..

    • An improvement, but still boring overall. Why can’t he wear a navy tie with a gray suit, or, Heavens forbid, a maroon or burgundy one? What’s wrong with a little color?

    • “The result is that he looks stiff and not at ease with what he is wearing.”

      Stan, you fail to appreciate that this is intentional. Craig, when not Bond, is perfectly comfortable dressed formally. Think back to Casino Royale and the commentary about how the suit is worn with some disdain. Or think about how Fleming wrote Bond; whilst he was sharply dressed, he was never foppish or a dandy like Roger Moore.

      Craig has embodied Ian Fleming’s Bond, and would be the most akin to Fleming’s concept if he had black hair. If his blonde hair is the only point of divergence from Ian Fleming’s work, then no complaint can be made.

    • In reply to AJ’s mention of fops and dandies.

      A dandy was opposed to the fop, preferring simple elegance. This is summed up in the following quote:

      “As invented by George Brummell two centuries ago, the dandy is the enemy of the splendiferous and effeminate. He instead favours simple clothes, pristine in cut, immaculate in fit, made from resilient materials by expert craftsmen, never ostentatious, always manly. So far from frippery, dandyism is the mean between foppishness and slovenliness.” — Nicholas Antongiavanni, The Suit

  7. I agree with the general comments – not as good a fit as QoS but better than Skyfall.

    On a side note, however, I was under the impression that Crombie coats were known as such because of the use of Crombie cloth from their mills and that the manufacture of coats by them (as well as just the fabric) was a later development, capitalising on their existing popularity. Have I picked up the wrong end of the stick?

  8. AJ,
    Alas I do not fail to appreciate the intentional effect; on the contrary, I am revolted by it.
    I simply do not understand this disdain for the suit, and see no intelligent background for it.

    I gratefully salute the strong input of Montagu and Cholmondeley, which defines with precision what a dandy is, and reduces the derogatory connotation it has acquired over the years.

    I do not think Moore was foppish as Bond. He certainly was during his Brett Sinclair’s days. Watching the opening of the Persuaders’ first episode clearly sets new benchmark in foppishness.

    The turquoise shirt he wears in a fashion statement, along with the fancy scarf the wears, which shouts 70’s and is a perfect (!) chromatic match for his ‘Bahama yellow Aston DBS:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=widKSdPcmD0

    This attire is also the epitome of foppish:

    http://theredlist.com/media/database/films/tv-series/adventure-and-action/1970/the-persuaders/019-the-persuaders-theredlist.jpg

    As far as Fleming character is concerned, I think that a closer reading is recommended. There is hardly any resemblance at all with Craig. And the blond hair is the least disturbing (if any) factor at all. If only this was the main divergence !

    Twice in the novels (Casino Royale & Moonraker) is Bond compared to Hoagy Carmichael.

    “He is very good-looking. He reminds me rather of Hoagy Carmichael, but there is something cold and ruthless in his …

    Where has Hoagy Carmichael gone? I don’t see the ‘very good looking’ either. But this is personal appreciation.

    In Casino Royale James Bond admits, ‘I take a ridiculous pleasure in what I eat and drink’. He shows signs of refinement in the book, yet in the movie he eats with table manners that would embarrass a pig.
    In Moonraker, the chases Drax in his –totally antique- Bentley 4.5L..
    The way he describes the foppishness or revealing details of the villains (Goldfinger, Count Lippe, Drax) and some allies (Fanshawe in the Property of a Lady).
    Someone with these tastes and this power of observation of other character’s attire cannot possibly display a disdain for suits.
    Even though he happens to wear sandals, and with suits, at that!

    “Craig, when not Bond, is perfectly comfortable dressed formally.”
    I would love to see examples illustrating your statement.

    So far:

    Skyfall premiere:
    https://theblacktieblog.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/danielcraigroyalworldpremiereskyfallmuxdvfssll4l.jpg

    To me he looks stiff, not to say ridiculous.
    Too short sleeves, trousers too tapered, shoes too chiseled, last button undone on the sleeves.
    Seriously, there is a nightclub bouncer’s look about him, with all my respect for this profession.

    Other example:
    http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/09/30/1412070160793_wps_26_Celebrities_at_Chiltern_F.jpg

    Nice try. Philip Johnson meets Harold Lloyd…
    Is it a Blackberry in your pocket or are you just happy to see me?

    And I had missed this:
    http://gq.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/daniel-craig-03.jpg
    That is cringe worthy.
    No, seriously…

    I would honestly hate to sound condescending, as there is a lot I can still learn, and I am far from an authority, like Matt or Carmelo, to name a few, but you will have to provide me with strong counterexamples.

    • I don’t think anyone, including Craig, is trying to convey any “disdain” for the suit. Whether you think Mr. Ford’s clothes are appropriate for Bond, they would not be dressing Bond in $10,000 suits from one of the most luxe brands available if “disdain” was the goal.

      I’ve always thought Craig looked incredibly stiff in pictures, yet on film I find that this effect largely disappears.

  9. The cut of this coat — whatever its proper name — is simply too close. Craig’s hands aren’t over-sized, the silly-looking coat fits him like a glove. Can any reader here really imagine wearing such form-fitting outerwear? It’s ludicrous. There must have been a Best Boy or Production Assistant for each arm to help Craig extract his extremities without sending his suit jacket sticking up under his pits.

    If these clothes are an improvement, they are a very modest one. The only thing that makes Craig look like a super spy here (or even a formidable man, for that matter) are his large hands.

    • I’d wear this coat with a jumper and dark jeans, but not a suit. This coat is cut like a suit jacket, not outerwear.

  10. So, a few thoughts; yes, an improvement as you say, Matt.

    To be objective, it appears to have been tailored to fit the wearer overall and the criticisms essentially reflect a dislike of modern trends such as short jacket length and tight fitting, lower rise, trousers whearas the 2012 suits failed on every level. So, 2015 is no better or worse than this https://www.bondsuits.com/the-elephant-grey-silk-suit/ except that the styling of the latter gels better with my eye. Overall, the suit Craig wears as Bond (in disguise?) in Rome has a better look to it than the one featured here but the overcoat is very nice if, yes, a little too closely cut. Yes, the collar and tie style; very humdrum. Nothing to lift it.

    It’s interesting, with the passage of a few short years, the almost universal liking on this blog for the QoS suits however they also had the lower rise trouser issue. Aside from that, the jackets of those suits were very reminiscent of 1970’s styling https://www.bondsuits.com/grey-plaid-in-amsterdam/ yet there is a general criticism of Bond’s 1970’s suits on this blog above and beyond any other era. It seems that that criticism must then relate to certain actors above others which prompts odd remarks about foppishness etc. The likes of Patrick McNee’s John Steed was a “fop”. An objective appraisal of Moore’s Bond portrayal shows a “fop” he wasn’t, at least no more so than Lazenby or Brosnan’s Bond.

    Stan, I would share the view about miscasting but it’s personal and I can appreciate that this miscasting idea is subjective as every actor since 1962 contained elements of miscasting on one level or another.

    Finally, as this movie’s template is inspired by Live and Let Die, and filming took place in Mexico and Morocco one wonders why they couldn’t have (re) introduced a beige/tan suit to Craig’s wardrobe? After all, that movie featured one https://www.bondsuits.com/the-beige-linen-suit/ and Brosnan wore one as recently as 2002 https://www.bondsuits.com/the-tan-linen-suit/ . Mexico featured this dark blue thing with, again, nondescript accompaniments and Morocco I believe they haven’t started filming in yet.

    • The ways that this suit is fashionable are much different from the ways the Moonraker suit is fashionable, and that makes it hard for me to compare the two. Current fashion has changed what a good fit is. A short jacket length and short trouser rise, whilst intentional, would have been considered a poor fit in the past. The shortness makes this suit look like it was made for someone shorter. The Moonraker suit is fashionable because of wide lapels and flared trousers, but it doesn’t look like it was made for someone of a different height.

      The trouser rise in Quantum of Solace was higher than this. The costume designer wanted a higher rise than what Tom Ford usually makes.

    • David,

      As always, I agree with just about everything you said. I might add that the dislike for 70’s suits may have something to do with chronological snobbery (“new is better”) as well as with dislike for Moore’s interpretation of Bond (not gritty enough, not angsty enough, blah blah blah). I like some of the pieces Craig wears individually, but the overall effect is boring, boring, boring.

  11. Matt,

    Your points are spot on. I guess I was trying to look at the thing leaving aside the prejudice I have against Craig and in comparison to the “Skyfall” suits of which this does appear to improve upon. I agree, as you know, completely with you when you say that a suit with a jacket this short and such a low trouser rise is jarring, disproportionate, out of sync with what was established as normal and just because current trends deem it to be acceptable doesn’t mean it reflects good taste. At least, I am assuming that’s the thrust of your point.

    My point was basically that the parallel between the “Moonraker” and “Spectre” suits is that, in both cases, current fashion trends in men’s tailoring were adopted but in neither case can be deemed as excessive as what was/is generally fashionable. This is why I have so assiduously defended Moore’s “70’s monstrosities” because there is a lack of balance and consideration of relativity on the part of many critics. Here I am trying to bring relativity to bear with Craig’s “10’s monstrosities” except, as Dan points out, nobody sees the monstrous elephant in the room on account of the fact that the style is current; this “chronological snobbery” as he calls it. Craig’s 2015 suits, while having all the questionable aspects Matt points out are, like it/them or not, still superior to what I see a great many men wearing daily. This says a lot about where modern taste resides and the tribal nature of a great many people.

    On the other hand, in “Skyfall”, current fashions were adopted full on without any redemption in terms of fit. This dismissal of relativity is something we can all experience I guess. For example, I recently watched a movie from the mid seventies called “Silver Streak” (Richard Kiel and Clifton James incidentally pop up as a goon with metal teeth and a Hicksville Sheriff respectively) where Patrick McGoohan played the villain. I thought his suits (all three piece with wide peaked lapels and very similar to some of Tom Ford’s recent, non-Bond, examples) looked very sharp and dapper. However, I did see part of the same movie over 20 years ago and seem to recall finding them very dated looking.

    Dan, you’re right about the overall “boring” nature of men’s suits in the last decade or two. For example, I have recently started watching the overrated TV series “House of Cards” and the suits worn by those at the upper echelons of US society in Washington leave a lot to be desired. All I’ve seen is black and navy and dark grey. No exciting stripes. No lighter greys or heaven forbid earth tones. But this is reality. Switch back 30 years to a comparable US TV series like “Dallas”. I seem to recall the colours we like being in evidence. But that all reflects life and “progress”, lol!

  12. Hi Matt,
    By chance I saw that there’s a new SPECTRE trailer with some glances at Bond’s suit – e.g. a white dinner jacket which looks a bit like the GF one. And Christoph Waltz in a Blofeld-like Nehru jacket. Would that perhaps be something for a post?

    Thanks and best,
    Renard

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