Pierce Brosnan brings back the button two suit in Die Another Day after wearing primarily button three suits in his previous three Bond films. Of the two examples of the style in this film, the first is a beige linen suit and the second is dark grey with light grey pinstripes, which is featured here. This Brioni suit introduces an updated raised button stance, which has become popular over the past ten years. Fashion has since taken this further by raising the jacket hem as well. Brosnan’s jacket has a traditional length, though the higher button stance doesn’t do his increasing waistline any favours. A lower button stance with a longer lapel line is more flattering to Brosnan’s figure. The jacket has slanted pockets with a ticket pocket, four buttons on the cuffs and double vents. The trousers have a darted front—with a rather generous rise compared to what has become of trouser rises over the past decade—and turn-ups.
Brosnan wears the suit with a light blue Brioni shirt that has a wide cutaway collar, front placket and double cuffs. Since he wears the suit twice in the film, each time it’s with a different tie. The first tie is grey with a blue circle motif, and the tie is still available from Turnbull & Asser. The second tie is a pattern of red rectangles on a navy ground (see below). Brosnan wears black shoes with this suit.
This suit was infinitely more elegant than the current Tom Ford horrors. I just saw Skyfall for the second time last night, and the suits look even tighter on second viewing. My wife, who is no male fashion arbiter, thought Daniel Craig looked “shrink-wrapped”.
Brosnan’s spread collars are infinitely more elegant than Craig’s tab collars, and so are his ties.
One small quibble – are Brosnan’s pants a little long in the second picture? I like the full break, but the left leg in particular seems to be bunching up around his ankle.
The Brioni collar is very nice, though I think something narrower like the collar in Tomorrow Never Dies worked better on him. Brosnan probably gained a little weight since the fitting and the trousers thus slipped down a bit, causing them too pool at the bottom.
Thanks for a very refreshing article, Matt.
Very nice suit (except for the shoulders : are they two on t) and shirt. I love Brioni’s lapels, they look very typical in my opinion. Too bad that Brosnan often wore fussy, “bold” ties, not very British, with them, like the navy/red as shown in this article. If my memory is correct, he also wore a beautiful double-breasted overcoat with this suit, that has much more style than the short and tight overcoat Craig wore in Skyfall.
Tell the truth, Matt : didn’t you got so depressed by writting articles on Skyfall’s poor-fitting clothes that you said to yourself : that’s enough for a week, now let’s take another movie ? :)
I wonder which is worse : the Skyfall 2012 pick and pick suit or Dalton’s charcoal grey suit in Licence to kill… I definitely prefer Moore’s Moonraker suits now ^^
I have to say, after seeing a lot of the Skyfall suits lately, this makes a welcome break.
Seeing a much more classic fit like this, it brings into sharp contrast how bad the ‘shrink wrapped’ look is.
Those spread collars do look lovely.
Is it odd for Bond to be wearing patterned ties like this? Connery and Craig at least seem to go for solid ties (I believe).
Connery wore solid ties, Craig wears small checks. Brosnan wore mostly patterned ties.
One should notice that the ties are not that bad in Die Another Day…
I still fail to see what is the problem with patterned ties. They add interest and graphic “punch” to an outfit. The dark-suit-white-shirt-solid-dark-tie outfits that dominate the men’s fashion magazines at present make their wearers look like so many undertakers!
Don’t get me wrong Dan. I appreciate most of Brosnan’s ties, especially the ones in Goldeneye and TWINE. It is just that some ties had sometimes patterns I thought too showy for Bond, like the one he wore in TWINE for the boat chase scene for example.
So true Dan,
It seems thet most men do not dare wear anything else but plain ties, suits and shirts just to be undistinguishable from the others. What about the (unbondian I admit) pleasure of wearing a beautiful paisley tie with a windowpane check tweed jacket ? or a polka dot tie (which seems to have disappeared except on those horrid skinny ties) on a bengal stripe shirt.
With the bad habit of wearing black, I have the impression of being in a world of undertakers (as you say) and widows.
Matt, I failed to express myself correctly in my first comment. Are they not two bumps on the shoulders (first pic) ? Is it normal ? Thank you.
It looks like a problem with the shoulder padding. The shape of Brosnan’s shoulders requires a lot of padding for a neatly-tailored suit.
You’re right, the higher button position doesn’t do Brosnan any favours. His previous lower button suits were more flattering, but then again, I believe that this style, like high spread collars, is generally more flattering than the alternative.
Viewing this suit shows how male fashion has plummeted in the short space of a decade and, given his appearance here, Brosnan could have easily done at least another 2 Bonds.
Le Chiffre, I agree 100% with your closing comments but you didn’t care at all for Moore’s style when you recently took me to task under a previous post??
David, what exactly are you referring to please ?
What I meant is that between Dalton’s LTK suit, Craig’s Skyfall suit and Moore’s Moonraker Venice suit -and only these three suits !!!-, I definitely prefer the Moonraker suit. That said, I am not a fan of Moore’s 70s suits at all, that is true, or of Moore’s general style either, except perhaps for some rare Hayward suits. I hope I have made myself clear .
PS : sorry in case of me not getting your comment right, I am French (it’s not an real excuse, I know, but… ).
Totally agree with Dan and Eric about the patterned ties, im on a laws school where wearing suits for both teachers and students is everyday stuff, and I can say im the only student who wears patterned ties (i also have plain and stripped to being in balance you know), i even have some brosnan ties on my wardrobe, but almost everyone else wears plain, stripped or minichecked ties, as u say, they are undistinguishable.
This is definitely one of my all-time favorite looks in the entire Bond series, really been looking forward to it, thanks for covering this Matt. It’s a decade old, but I think this suit has aged exceptionally well– he is elegantly dressed without being too ostentatious. It’s interesting to see the stylistic “evolution” over the past ten years.
I too prefer the T&A collars to the Brioni ones, but both look great especially in comparison with the tiny collars of today.
The blue tie with the circles was the first purchase I’d ever made from Turnbull and Asser and I love to thrown it on for a special occasion when an extra touch of Bond is on order (and when is it not?)
Is it safe to assume that Brosnan wears a belt with this suit? He almost always does.
Of course he wears a belt, as always.
For the most part, I generally enjoyed Brosnan’s style. It slightly resemblesa like a banker with good taste, and it does have elements of 90’s fashion, but it is largely timeless. Brosnan’s ties sometimes take a little crap, but I enjoy them for their uniqueness in comparison to the minimalist Connery style, and the striped regimental and rep ties so common in American fashion right now. However, I tend to prefer a 3-button with a gentle roll over the higher stance 2 buttons so popular right now.
You mention the beige suit at the beach bar hotel in passing. This grabbed me at the time as the perfect summer suit, and I think Brosnan really nails the look. Was it in fact linen on close inspection? Idea of linen is nice in hot climate but the creasing just makes it too much of ball ache for me. Also, matching shoes to a light suit in hot climate can be tricky (the loafer look can sometimes look too dressed-down, depending on occasion)
Hello, Mr. Spaiser I was wondering if you would ever consider writing on the outfit worn by James Bond and Graves during the fencing duel?
Thanks, keep safe!
Is that lapel just slightly wider than the TWINE suits’ ones ? I guess all of Brosnan’s suits in DAD have the same lapel width ? Around 9 cm ?
The lapel width is about the same, but the longer lapel on a button-two suit can make a lapel appear wider.
Anyone know the brand name of the decanter set BOND Used in the office simulation scene? I hear baccarat made the some of the glasses for other scenes but did they make the decanter set as well?