Agent Saunders rudely greets James Bond, first telling him that he’s late and then saying that he’s overdressed. “This is a mission, not a fancy dress ball”, says Saunders. For our first look at Timothy Dalton as James Bond in tailored clothes, he proves that he looks the part. To a classical music concert in Bratislava, Czechoslovakia in The Living Daylights, Bond wears a traditionally detailed black shawl-collar dinner jacket with a button one front, no vent, jetted pockets and four-button cuffs. Though the shoulders are a little wide as per late 1980s styles, the dinner jacket fits well through the body. The shawl collar is noticeably wider than the more familiar shawl-collar dinner jackets Bond wore in the 1960s.
The dinner suit’s trousers have double reverse pleats and a black silk stripe down the sides, and they are held up by white clip-on braces. Proper braces button into the waistband—most typically the inside of the waistband, but sometimes onto the outside of the waistband in front—and do not clip-on. In the traditional James Bond fashion, he is not wearing a cummerbund or waistcoat, which at least would hide the clips.
Bond shows Saunders that he is properly dressed for both a fancy dress ball and his mission when he turns up the dinner jacket’s shawl collar and closes it with a Velcro strap, better to hide himself in the dark without a bright white shirt over the chest.
Underneath the dinner jacket he wears a white dress shirt from an English brand with narrow pleats, mother of pearl buttons down the placket, a spread collar and double cuffs. The shirt proves to be from an English brand with a placket stitched 3/8 inch from the edge and double cuffs with link holes close to the fold. He wears a well-tied black satin silk thistle-shaped bow tie.