Let’s celebrate the 100th blog entry on The Suits of James Bond with black tie! In The World is Not Enough, Bond visits Valentin Zukovsky’s Baku casino wearing a single-button midnight blue, wool and mohair blend dinner suit from Brioni. Cool-wearing wool and mohair blends are popular for dinner suits because the subtle sheen of mohair gives off a more formal look. This cloth is provided by William Halstead. The dinner jacket has midnight blue grosgrain silk peak lapels, jetted pockets, four-button cuffs, and a traditional non-vented back. The buttons are covered in midnight blue silk. The matching trousers have a darted front and stripe down the side.
Bond’s white dress shirt has a marcella spread collar, marcella double cuffs and a marcella bib front. The collar and cuffs have 1/4-inch stitching. The shirt has a more formal plain or “French” front, meaning it doesn’t have a separate placket. The shirt is worn with mother of pearl studs and round cufflinks in gold and mother of pearl. The shirt is from Turnbull & Asser, and it has their style of double cuffs, with the buttonholes closer to the fold than most shirts have. Bond wears a midnight blue silk bow tie with lengthwise ribs but no waistcoat or cummerbund here. The x-ray glasses are made by a Blue and the model number is MOD No.9048 ANT BLUE 50X19. The blue lenses were put in afterwards. It’s just a coincidence that the company’s name is Blue.
Some readers have suggested that Bond should have worn a white dinner jacket in this scene. I disagree because, even through it’s a dry place, Baku in wintertime is too cold for a white dinner jacket. Only four men are seen in the casino wearing white dinner jackets, and if Bond wore one he would be standing out more than he should. The last time Bond wore a white dinner jacket was in A View to a Kill.