For Alfred Hitchcock’s 1964 film Marnie, costume designer James Linn came up with varied wardrobe or suits and sports coats for Sean Connery to wear. For a large portion of the film, Connery wears a taupe suit quite unlike anything he wears as James Bond. Though Connery wears a few brown suits as James Bond, Bond’s are all in dark shades of brown. This suit is in a medium shade of taupe, which is a grey-brown. The name for the colour comes from the French taupe, a noun for the mole animal. A mole is dark grey-brown, and the colour is named after it.
Connery’s taupe suit is a heavy worsted wool woven in a herringbone weave with a white pinstripe bordering each repeat of the herringbone. This suit is what might be called a “town and country” suit, being neither completely a town suit nor a country suit. It is made in a worsted cloth, which is typically worn in town, and it has the details of a town suit, such as a vent-less rear and straight pockets. But taupe’s marginally warm tone brings it into the country. Since taupe is between grey and brown, it makes the transition nicely. Formality-wise, a taupe suit also fits between grey and brown.
Taupe can be considered a neutral colour, but it has a slight warmth that is most flattering on people with a warm complexion. Sean Connery has a cool complexion and looks better in cooler greys than he does in a warmer taupe. However, Connery looks much better in taupe than he does in warmer and richer country browns. Taupe’s warmth reflects the country’s surroundings but is neutral enough to still look good on someone with a cool complexion. It is therefore an excellent compromise in the country for someone with a cool complexion. Likewise, it can also be a good compromise in the city for someone with a warm complexion because it is neutral enough to fit in amongst the greys of the city.
This suit is made in the same style as all of Connery’s other suits in Marnie, and the cuts of both the jacket and the trousers suggest an English tailor. The jacket is cut with a full chest and a gently suppressed waist. The shoulders are on the natural shoulder line with more padding than his suits in the Bond films have, and the shoulders have roped sleeve heads. The jacket buttons three with the lapels gently rolled over the top button, and it is detailed with flap pockets, three buttons on the cuffs and no vent. Connery briefly rides a horse in this suit, and the lack of vent does not make the task impossible. A vent, however, would likely have made Connery more comfortable on the horse.
The suit’s trousers have double forward pleats, a tapered leg with turn-ups, an extended waistband closure and button side tabs to adjust the waist. Instead of the tabs extending forward as they ordinarily do (like on Connery’s Bond suit trousers), these tabs extend rearward.
The cream shirt has a spread collar, front placket and single-button rounded barrel cuffs. The shirts resemble Frank Foster’s shirts, with a familiar collar shape and a placket stitched close to the center. Connery’s narrow tie is solid dark brown in a shiny satin weave, and it is tied in a windsor knot. The tie is held to his placket with a tie bar at the height of the jacket’s top button so it is just barely seen when the jacket is closed at the middle button. Connery’s shoes are medium brown derbys with an elongated and slightly squared toe. The shoes likely have double leather soles for extra durability in the country.
Not a bad outfit, except for the shiny satin tie which doesn’t go with a quasi-sporty suit.
A knit tie would work well, but I can see why they might have avoided it due to him wearing them in Goldfinger the same year.
The suit is nice and bridges the gap between a country and town suit well. The outfit could have used a more rustic tie maybe, but that’s about it. The slightly padded shoulders look fine even with Connery’s build. It’s a shoulder line that is very popular now.
Jacket looks a tad too short to me.
By 1960s standards, it is quite normal. By today’s fashion standards it is long! I don’t find the jacket length distracting either way though.
Suit screams Anthony Sinclair all over.
The shoulders (among other things) do not scream Anthony Sinclair, so it’s not his work.
Well, I see some drape (or it would be that the chest is full), shoulders don’t look too padded, and the trousers had a nice tapering, so I presumed.
These shoulders have a lot more padding. The trouser legs aren’t as trim and tapered. And as I mentioned in the article, the side adjusters are done differently. But the suit overall has a similar look to Sinclair because it’s from an English tailor in the 1960s. I’m sure the tailor who made this suit was inspired by what Sinclair made for Connery.