Ignoring for the slightly flared trousers, this is one of my favourite suits of the series. It’s just a shame to see this suit get so beat up. But the through the fistfight we get to see the suit from all angles, wide shots and close-ups, and we even get a peak at the lining. While Roger Moore’s suits in the 1970s appear a little outdated, they are still well tailored and allow James Bond the full range of movement he needs for a fight. And they really aren’t even all that outdated. The lapels and tie aren’t that wide, just on the wider side of classic. The shirt collar is a little bigger than typical today but it complements the shape of Roger Moore’s face.
The cut is the same as Roger Moore’s other suits in The Man With The Golden Gun: a button two front, soft and slightly roped shoulder, deep double vents, slanted flap pockets, link-button cuff, and darted front, slightly flared trousers. The trousers have two button-through back pockets and no side pockets (which give a much more streamlined look in line with the darted front. Many people have problems with their side pockets gaping open on flat front trousers. Whilst the problem doesn’t exist on properly-fitted trousers, and darts help the fit, eliminating the pockets altogether is another solution. Side pockets, especially on-seam pockets, help to give more ease to the trousers when sitting down, functioning much like pleats.
Starting in The Man With The Golden Gun, Bond wears his suit trousers with a belt, and here it’s a black textured belt. Though Roger Moore wears British suits, tailored by Cyril Castle, and shirts, made by Frank Foster, his belts and shoes are Italian. The belt is made by Gucci though the side-bit loafers are likely from Ferragamo.
The colour of this suit is known as ‘marine blue.’ It’s a medium blue with a green cast and not commonly seen today. It’s more flashy and not always appropriate for business, but it’s perfect for a night out as worn here. Maxwell Smart was a fan of this colour, and he won the award for best dressed CONTROL agent. The material of this suit is of course unknown, but it wouldn’t surprise me if rather than a plain worsted wool it may be mohair or a wool/mohair blend. What suggests this is it’s crisp look and slight sheen. And since this scene takes place in Beirut, Lebanon (though filmed at Pinewood in England, I’m sure), mohair’s cool-wearing properties would be ideal. Mohair’s sheen also makes it an excellent choice for a night out to differentiate it from a typical business suit.
The sky blue cotton voile shirt is a Bond classic, with it’s spread collar, front placket and two-button cocktail cuffs. The cuffs here a cut differently from the ones in Live and Let Die and look similar to the ones that Roger Moore wore in the sixth series of The Saint. The tie is a deep red satin.
This suit is the subject of one of Roger Moore’s favourite stories from his Bond films. This was a favourite suit of Moore’s and had looked forward to wearing it in his personal life after the production of The Man with the Golden Gun ended. Producer Cubby Broccoli got word of this, and to play a prank on Moore he got up on a ladder and dumped a bucket of paste on Moore when the filming of this scene ended, ruining the beautiful suit.