M: Double-Breasted Prince of Wales Suit in Spectre

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London tailor Timothy Everest tailored a number of beautiful suits for Ralph Fiennes to wear as James Bond’s boss M in Spectre. One of these is a criminally underused double-breasted suit in a dark grey Prince of Wales check—likely made up of medium grey and black—with a blue overcheck that M only wears in a scene that takes place in Tokyo. An article on Timothy Everest’s website mentions that for Spectre Everest abandoned the “heavy worsted wools and flannels” that he dressed Fiennes in for Skyfall in favour of “more modern, medium weight Super 120’s worsted wool”. This checked suit may be the lightest of Fiennes’ wardrobe in the film, which makes sense because Tokyo is warmer than London. Being a Prince of Wales check makes this suit less formal than M’s striped London suits, though since it dark grey it is still a serviceable business suit around the world.

The jacket is made in the same style as Fiennes’ chalkstripe suit that he also wears in Spectre. The suit jacket is a classic button two, show three double-breasted, but M casually leaves it open. It has a traditional Savile Row cut with straight shoulders, roped sleeve heads, a full chest, a nipped waist and medium-wide peaked lapels. The jacket is detailed with four buttons on the cuffs, straight flapped pockets and double vents. The edges are finished with subtle pick stitching, and the buttons are dark horn with a four-hole domed centre.

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The suit trousers are not seen, but they likely match the trousers of Fiennes’ other suits in the film, which have a plain front, slanted side pockets and medium-width tapered legs that likely have turn-ups. The waistband would have a tab extension with a hidden clasp closure and slide-buckle side adjusters. The trousers are most likely worn with braces, and the rear would have two tabs for the braces to attach to, which raises the back of the braces like a fishtail back would do to make the braces more comfortable.

M’s shirt is a white and light grey bengal stripe, which picks up the grey in the suit, and it has a spread collar and double cuffs. M wears a navy tie with white polka dots, and he knots the tie in a Windsor knot. We don’t see his shoes, but they are likely the same black cap-toe oxfords he wears in London.

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13 COMMENTS

  1. If only, if only Bond would wear real suits like this! I like this suit even better than the heavy striped wool suit M wears trough most of the film and as you point out, it’s indeed criminally undersused, we dont even get a full shot of the suit buttoned.

  2. I maintain that Ralph Fiennes is the best dressed person in both Skyfall and SPECTRE. This is a classic example of how classic “business/formal” doesn’t have to mean boring. Assuming he’s in the next film, I look forward to seeing what he’s wearing.

    • I’m certain he will be if all goes to plan. Even with or without a different Bond actor, everything points towards the producers wanting to keep a continuity and family of players around Bond again, a home team to support him. It’s worked for 40 years until 2002 and continues to work in the last three Mission Impossible films. They’d be very daft not to sign Ralph, Naomi and Ben on again.
      I’d have liked Tim Pigott-Smith, the Foriegn Secretary from Quantum, to return, too. I thought he was a great, hissable villain who could have, over the course of a few films, turned in to a decent, ally character and adding to the home team of players not unlike Geoffery Keen’s Minister of Defence did. He may still return….

    • I agree wholeheartedly although it’s sad that an underpart and not the leading character is the one who is best dressed.

  3. Lovely but I would probably wear a pocket square, too. Thing is, so few people make an effort now that a pocket square is seen to be incredibly rakish.

    • In the circles I move in, pocket squares are becoming more and more common. At least in part, it’s because I always wear one and people have started copying my style.

    • I’m going to go out on a limb here and plump for outsider Daniel Craig 🙂
      He’s made them a billion dollars for the last two films. They can afford to pay him what he wants or wait until he’s ready.

    • Yes. I really would like to see him agais as James Bond. But sometimes i think he wouldnt do it for any money in the world. He is also getting a little bit older for the role.

  4. I agree – I also would like him to play Bond again. Then chances are good that Christoph Waltz will play Blofeld in the sequel to SPECTRE: He said he would do it only only on this condition (i.e. that Craig will be back as Bond). And it’s clear why: He wants to make sure that he will be working with somebody he is on a par with. A fine actor recognises another one…

    And his age really isn’t the point – quite the contrary, it’s rather an asset: He’s not any more the amateurish Bond of CR but a matured experienced pro at his best. A worthy counterpart for a heavy like Blofeld. And in comparison to certain other Bond actors before him he doesn’t look his age at all.

  5. I’ve never really thought Craig ‘looked the part’ as Bond, would have much preferred Clive Owen, but this has been mitigated by the quality of the films. He’s been offered $100 million for the next two and is still hedging but maybe will come around in time. I also hope that they return Felix to the ‘home team’ as he was great in the role and I never liked the lack of continuity of Felixes earlier in the series.

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