Timothy Dalton’s leather car coat is a great casual item for the cold European winters. Bond wears this on his trip from Bratislava to Vienna in The Living Daylights. The coat reaches just below the hips, the typical car coat length. Though Bond mostly leaves it unbuttoned, the coat can button up to the collar. It has numerous external pockets, including angled slash zipper pockets on the chest and flapped patch pockets below. There is a seam around the waist, which probably includes a tunnel housing a string used to cinch the waist. There are button tabs on the sleeves.
The coat is a little too big by today’s standards but more typical of how people wore their clothes in the late 1980s. The shoulders are too wide and droop down over the arm, and the sleeves cover half the hand.
The dark grey, crew-neck Shetland wool jumper is also over-sized, as was popular in the era. The ecru shirt, possibly oxford cloth, is well hidden, with only part of the collar and button cuffs peaking through the collar and cuffs of the jumper. The shirt’s soft point collar has traditional 1/4″ stitching. The rounded cuffs fasten with one button but have two buttons to adjust the tightness of the cuff. This is a ready-to-wear method of making cuffs that can fool the wearer into thinking the sleeve length is adjustable. When using the inner cuff button the sleeve can be appear to be shorter by preventing the cuff from sliding over the hand. Using the outer cuff button allows the sleeve to hang lower.
The trousers are charcoal grey woollen flannel. They have reverse pleats with full upper thighs that tapers to a narrow plain hems. Bond wears black leather gloves and shoes with the outfit. Bond’s shoes are black leather apron-toe, derby lace-up shoes in the city scenes and black snow boots with lug soles in the snow.
Dressed to Kill: James Bond The Suited Hero mentions that the coat is dark green, but a Christie’s lot description says the coat is black. The full description reads:
“A three-quarter length black leather jacket with concealed zip and button fastening, with black ‘art’ silk lining, labelled inside Kenzo, white tape label to inside pocket inscribed in black ballpoint pen T DALTON — purchased for Timothy Dalton as James Bond in the 1987 United Artists/Eon film The Living Daylights; accompanied by a colour reproduction of a corresponding still and a letter concerning the provenance from the film’s Wardrobe Supervisor, Tiny Nicholls.”
It sold for £1,410 on 12 December 2001.