Since last week I wrote about Sean Connery’s single-breasted navy blazer, let’s now look at James Bond’s first double-breasted navy blazer, worn in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service by George Lazenby. This blazer, made by Dimi Major in wool doeskin, has a clean, structured cut with a naval-inspired six button front with three to button and three buttons on the cuff. The buttons are a highly-polished silver-toned metal, as opposed to the more commonly seen brass buttons. The blazer has double vents and slanted pockets with a ticket pocket.
The lapels are a style known as the “Tautz” lapel, which were commonly made by tailoring firm E. Tautz & Sons. It’s like a peak lapel but with the top of the lapel pointing horizontally rather than pointing upwards. For a sportier look, the lapels and pockets have swelled edges.
Lazenby wears the blazer with medium grey flannel trousers with a narrow, straight leg, frogmouth pockets and plain hems. In the pictures above, Lazenby is wearing the jacket with a light blue shirt made by Frank Foster and red knitted silk tie. Below he wears the blazer with a pink shirt made by Frank Foster and navy knitted silk tie. The shirts each have a small, moderate spread collar, a front placket and rounded single-button cuffs. Lazenby wears black shoes with the blazer, and the shoes are most likely slip-ons. Bond wears the pink shirt and grey trousers on the beach with Tracy, and he removes his blazer, tie and shoes there.
See a comparison of this blazer with Roger Moore’s very similar blazer in The Man with the Golden Gun.
1. INADEQUATE PHOTOGRAPH OF DB BLAZER
I'm sorry, but your description is not done justice by the photograph you chose to display. Would you please provide photographs so that one can see what you describe?
2. Why do you only provide the first DB blazer? Where are the others?
I've now posted more pictures of the blazer, so I hope you can now get a better understanding of my description.
In the future I will write about other DB blazers. I can't write about everything at once.
Thank you very much for your kind cooperation by posting excellent photographs of the 6×3 blazer.
I find the slanted pockets unusual on a DB blazer – or are they stock on 6×3?
Regarding E. Tautz – I looked in Internet and saw Norton on Savile Row took them over.
I would appreciate your opinion on the 6×3 –
do you have such a blazer yourself?
Do you prefer the 6×2?
What do you think about slanted pockets on a DB blazer? Why do they seem to be rather seldom?
Slanted pockets aren't usual for any double-breasted jacket. Slanted, or hacking, pockets were designed to be easier to access whist riding a horse. Double-breasted jackets are not good for riding a horse since they are cut straight across the bottom. This puts double-breasted jackets and slanted pockets at odds with each other. I rather like the rakish look of the slanted pockets. You may notice that Bond wears a lot of slanted pockets in the four films from OHMSS to The Man with the Golden Gun, and a few more through the end of the 70s. Roger Moore also wore a 6×3 blazer, and whilst I like it I think it is too naval for a civilian. It fits quite well with Bond's naval character.
I'm not a fan of it. They tried way too hard to make Bond "fashionable" in this movie.
I read your excellent thread on grenadine large and fine at Style Forum. I was not aware of this weave nor did I realise it is different what from I have seen advertised as "knit". How can you recognise above that both ties are knit and not grenadine?
You state: Double-breasted jackets are not good for riding a horse since they are cut straight across the bottom.
1. If a blazer jacket is cut straight across, why is it not good for horse riding?
2. How are riding jackets cut across at the bottom?
3. DB blazer jackets are usually – if not always – double vented. Aren't riding jackets double vented, too?
Anon 3, have you read the entries here about grenadine ties and knit ties:
https://www.bondsuits.com/the-grenadine-tie/
https://www.bondsuits.com/the-silk-knit-tie/
I hope this should clear up your confusion. Be aware that some knit ties have pointed ends like normal ties, so don't go by that tell them apart. If you have any further questions I'd be glad to help.
Anon 4, Riding jackets are like your normal single-breasted lounge coat, which is cut away and curved at the bottom. This way the front of the jacket is not bunched up in front of you on top of the horse. Long single vents are more traditionally found on riding jackets. The single vent helps to split the back more neatly over the horse. Double vents, however, are still appropriate for riding, just not as common.
Thanks very much for your kind replies.
I absolutely love the navy blazer with the pink shirt; however, should Bond be wearing a navy tie with a navy blazer? Won't the two shades of navy be just different enough to clash?
M's green smoking jacket and cravat is wonderful too.
I love the look of the blazer worn by George Lazenby in OHMSS and along with your very detailed description of it, I am having one made for myself.
George Lazenby wore some very stylish clothes well in that movie and you have described what you saw to perfection.
You must be congratulated on all of your very detailed posts on all the Bond related clothing.
Matt,
Do you know which color shoes Lazenby wore in this particular scene?
In your opinion, which color (and kind) of shoes would go best with the DB navy blazer and light grey trouser combination?
In which setting would you recommend wearing this outfit?
Kind Regards
Lazenby wears black shoes. Almost any shoe colour goes with light grey trousers.
This outfit is good for informal and non-business occasions in the city. With cream or tan trousers it could be worn at a resort.
Hi Matt – if one wears a Reefer Blazer with 3 buttons closed, what do they do when they sit? Do we need to unfasten all the three or just the bottom one? Thanks.
You should never unfasten any buttons on a double-breasted blazer when wearing it. For this type of blazer, all buttons should be fastened all the time to reflect this style’s military look and manner of wearing it. The bottom buttons on Lazenby’s blazer are high enough that he should be able to sit comfortably with all of the buttons fastened, and the double vents also help.
Thanks a lot Matt. I guess the same applies to the 3 button blazer that Roger Moore wore in Man With the Golden Gun?
Yes.
Is the blazer a worsted ? Hopsack? Flannel?
I believe it is wool doeskin.
I think the last look with the grey trousers and the pink shirt alone at the beach looks great and is far superior to Connery’s version in YOLT.
That’s probably down to Frank Foster making a better fit than Turnbull & Asser.