Largo’s Charcoal Suit and Camel Coat



The always well-tailored Emilio Largo, played by Adolfo Celi, is introduced in Thunderball wearing a very dark charcoal grey three-piece suit. If his eye-patch doesn’t immediately give away that he’s the film’s villain, a very dark suit suit does. The suit is made of woollen flannel with a fuzzy nap in a medium-heavy weight. The button three jacket is tailored with very strong, straight shoulders and a clean chest. The narrow lapels gently roll over the top button. The jacket also has jetted pockets, three-button cuffs and no vent.

The overall cut as well as the stylistic details are all very characteristic of a continental suit. Since the jacket has little fullness in the chest or flare at the skirt, it doesn’t look like an English suit. And neither the Italian character Largo nor the Italian actor Adolfo Celi would have likely used an English tailor. An Italian tailor could possibly have made this suit.


Little is seen of the waistcoat and trousers. Since the top button of the waistcoat isn’t particularly high, I would guess that the waistcoat has five buttons. The trousers have a tapered leg with turn-ups. They are probably pleated, and I would guess they have reverse pleats since the suit is likely of Italian origin. The Italian tailors almost always make their trousers with reverse pleats.

Largo’s cream shirt has a spread collar and double cuffs. He uses a four-in-hand knot to tie his black tie with white polka dots. His socks and shoes are black.


Over the suit Largo wears a three-quarter-length camelhair coat. The button three coat has notched lapels, swelled edges, turnback cuffs and a single vent. He wears the coat draped over his shoulders as if it were a cape, and I wouldn’t recommend wearing a coat in such a manner since that seems like something only a flamboyant villain would do. He also wears his charcoal trilby like a dandy: tilted and with the brim turned up all the way around. The hat’s crown has a centre dent and a front pinch, and the roughly 2 1/4″ brim has a sewn overwelt. His cream leather gloves take his outerwear yet another step further into flamboyance.


  1. Such a great look for a great villain. His style could certainly compete with Connery’s Bond.
    Love that Italian cut for the suit ! Makes him look really powerful.

  2. “He wears the coat draped over his shoulders as if it were a cape, and I wouldn’t recommend wearing a coat in such a manner since that seems like something only a flamboyant villain would do”. I have noticed Celi’s fellow Italian Mr. Silvio Berlusconi wear an overcoat in this fashion in the past so, with that, I rest my case!

  3. A perfect suit for Largo, who is easily my favorite villain in the series. I agree with the above regarding the strong shoulders. While I would look silly in such a suit, Largo looks imposing and commands respect.

  4. Style very typical of the great Neapolitan tailor, Cesare Attolini. And yes, only the Italians can get away with the overcoat draped over the shoulders, although it’s never to my taste.

    • Again in the article it says that the giveaway signs are that the suit has little ripple in the chest and very little flare at the skirt.

  5. I think Emilio Largo was one of the most well-dressed Bond villains. His clothes, other than the eye-patch, were not particularly uncommon for someone his age around that time, although they were well-fitting. The way he had his overcoat however, does look unworn and awkward, even though the effect was supposed to suggest that of a cape. I don’t think I’ve seen a coat worn that way before, in person or in pictures, other than how Largo has here.

  6. Matt, how about doing a poll on the best dressed Bond villain ?
    Although Largo would certainly win, there are I think a few challengers : Kamal Kahn, Goldfinger, and perhaps Kristatos, Zorin and Le Chiffre.
    What do you think ?

  7. Largo, by far, is my favorite Bond villain, particularly do to his stylish dress. Being extremely well dressed adds to the menacing aura of a villain. This is also apparent with the Mr. Hinx character in Spectre.

    As to more articles on villain clothing, and the suggestion of a best dressed poll, I would be all for it.

  8. Is there any ready-to-wear brand today that would cut suits and jackets similarly to this one ?…
    Also, the suit looks a dark navy to me in first two pictures.

  9. It is definitely a European tailor. It would not be British. Only a European would dress that flamboyantly.

  10. Is it a button two or three jacket? And I presume the waistcoat has 6 buttons with 5 to button but we don’t know because the jacket is mostly worn buttoned up.

    • It’s clearly a button three jacket in the first photo here. The waistcoat’s low opening suggests it may only have 5 buttons total. Since you agree with me that it’s unlikely to be an English suit, it would be unlikely to have a six-button waistcoat with the last button on the cutaway.


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