From GoldenEye in 1995 through Casino Royale in 2006, James Bond—as portrayed by both Pierce Brosnan and Daniel Craig—was dressed by Roman tailoring house Brioni via costume designer Lindy Hemming. Brioni dressed Bond in various different models (specific designs) throughout the appearances. The models that Brosnan and Craig wear change primarily to stay current with Brioni’s models and to keep up with trends. None of Brioni’s models are all excessively trendy, but like all of Bond’s suits throughout the series, they touch upon the trends of the time.
Bond’s clothes from Brioni follow the brand’s specific models, but they are fitted in a bespoke manner and often modified to achieve a specific aesthetic. The Brioni models merely offer a starting place for Bond’s clothes. A jacket or trouser model is a certain silhouette but does not signify details like pocket or vent styles.
I would like to preface this by thanking @raccoon007japan on Instagram for working with Brioni to gather most of the information presented in this article. I would also like to thank Eisuke Ochiai—@inspiredbybond on Instagram—for help with translating Raccoon007’s research and consolidating the information. Most of the GoldenEye model names were originally presented by Piero Cirino in an Italian magazine called Mr. Bond!. I have written this article, which presents all of this research along with some of my own analysis.
Ochiai described the process of gathering the information: ‘Such questions are answered by each department, who ask the head of the department, who ask the factory (Roman Style) and Angelo Petrucci [a tailor at Brioni who designed Bond’s suits]. Such data is old, hence archive data isn’t as clearly recorded and is a result of research from each individual. [It is sometimes] the case where the person in charge, or someone who knows something, is no longer with Brioni.’
The information that could be gathered concerning the models used for each film follows below. Model names are written in all uppercase to set them apart from the rest of the text.
The foundation for Pierce Brosnan’s Bond wardrobe is the Brioni AUGUSTO suit jacket. This is the model he wears in GoldenEye, Tomorrow Never Dies and The World Is Not Enough.
AUGUSTO is likely named after the first Roman emperor. It also translates in English to ‘august’ and may be defined as ‘marked by majestic dignity or grandeur’. The AUGUSTO model undoubtedly gives Bond such a look. The AUGUSTO jacket has a classic Roman cut and a full, traditional fit. The shoulders are large, straight and padded, and the lapels are a medium width. It can be made with one, two or three buttons, and the button stance is low. For GoldenEye, the length and button stance are lowered from how Brioni would traditionally fit the suits.
The jackets and trousers of a suit always have separate model names. The GoldenEye suit trousers are the SNELLO model and have double reverse pleats, tapered legs and belt loops, and Bond’s are finished with turn-ups. SNELLO translates to ‘slender’ or ‘slim’. While they are full-cut by today’s standards, that was not the case for 1995 trends when excessively baggy trousers were fashionable. These trousers are meant to have clean, trim lines.
The six-button waistcoat is the NUMBER 1 model.
The cotton suit from the Cuba scene has a looser fit, but the model is still the same AUGUSTO and SNELLO. The models are tweaked in different ways for different films and sometimes for different suits within each film.
The navy cashmere overcoat is the ADIGE model, which is a full-length coat with notched lapels and low-fastening three-button front, following the low-fastening trend of the 1990s.
The black mohair-and-wool dinner jacket is made in the ORFEO model, named after Orpheus—a poet and musician in Greek mythology. The model has a single button on the front with silk-faced peaked lapels and silk-covered buttons. Brioni’s dinner jackets all have separate model names from the suits. The cut is similar to the AUGUSTO, thought it looks like the shoulders may have more padding. A pair of SNELLO trousers complete the dinner suit.
The navy blazer with metal buttons is the PLINIO, likely named after Pliny the Elder or Pliny the Younger of Ancient Rome. PLINIO is a button-two, show-three model, the most classic double-breasted configuration. Both suit jackets and blazers were made in the PLINIO model. The full-cut triple-reverse-pleat trousers that Brosnan wears with the blazer are reportedly not from Brioni, as it was not a style they made.
Raccoon007 was able to find out from Brioni that the blazer is made of 250gm hopsack. Brioni do not have fabric information for most of the clothes they made for Bond, and this may be in part because many of the clothes they made were not of Brioni fabrics.
Brioni also told Raccoon007 that they made a white shirt with a customized LEONID collar for GoldenEye, but it is unclear which shirt this is and if Brosnan even wears the shirt in the film. The standard LEONID collar has an 9.3 cm point with a 15.5 cm spread and is 3.8 cm high, so it is a wide spread collar with long points. None of Brosnan’s shirt collars in GoldenEye have a collar close to resembling the LEONID collar.
Most of the model names for GoldenEye were originally published by Piero Cirino, but Raccoon007 was able to confirm most of Cirino’s research and provide the model name of the overcoat as well as other details.
Tomorrow Never Dies
The suits are the same in Tommorow Never Dies as in GoldenEye, with the modified AUGUSTO model and the SNELLO model.
One of the most signicant pieces unique to Tommorow Never Dies is the fawn-coloured cashmere ADDA double-breasted overcoat, named after the Adda river in North Italy. The coat is a button-two, show-three model with wide 11.5 cm peaked lapels and ‘narrow shoulders’, according to Brioni’s model description.
The World Is Not Enough
The AUGUSTO model continues for The World Is Not Enough, but the fashionably full and long cut and low button stance from Brosnan’s first two Bond films has been scaled back to more classic proportions that are typical for the standard AUGUSTO. The trousers are now the DELTA model, which usually have a darted front, belt loops and trim slightly tapered legs. The DELTA may also be made with pleats, and the trousers with the cream herringbone linen suit are an example with double reverse pleats.
Die Another Day
For Die Another Day, Brioni updated Brosnan’s suit model to the NOMENTANO, named after a quartiere of Rome. The model is similar to the AUGUSTO but has a trimmer cut with narrower shoulders, a higher button stance and a higher gorge (lapel seam). It has either two buttons or three buttons. The trousers are the DELTA model, all of which have a darted front in the film.
Brioni has records for bespoke camp shirts—featured in the Cuba scenes—and business shirts for Die Another Day. The camp collar is based on the WILL collar. The cutaway collar on the business shirts is completely bespoke, but they think it may be a modified MAX collar, which is a moderately proportioned wide spread collar.
When Daniel Craig was cast as Bond in Casino Royale, Lindy Hemming was still the costume designer and Brioni was still making James Bond’s suits. Four years had passed since Die Another Day, and Brioni had a new model that was slightly updated from the NOMENTANO. For Casino Royale, Craig is dressed in the CHIGI suit, which is similar to the NOMENTANO but has a higher gorge, waist and button stance, and the lapels are narrower at 8.5 cm. Its proportions are more fashion-forward than the NOMENTANO. CHIGI is the name of a Roman princely family.
The trousers are the DELTA model, the same as what Brosnan wore in The World Is Not Enough and Die Another Day.
The dinner suit is the CAPITOL model, which has one button at the front and peaked lapels like all of Brioni’s dinner suits for Bond. These lapels are narrower and have a higher gorge and less pointed lapels than any that Brosnan wore.
Craig’s business shirts in Casino Royale are made by Brioni. His collar is a custom variation on the CLARK collar, a classic semi-spread collar. The standard CLARK collar has an 8 cm point with a 12.5 cm spread and is 4 cm high. Brioni cannot confirm the changes made to the collar, but Craig’s collar appears to have been raised a little from the standard CLARK.
While most of the models that Bond wore are no longer part of Brioni’s standard collection, they are all still available through their custom programme. Ochiai states that this is necessary for Brioni to offer ‘given their VIP clientele who tend to stick to their favoured cut’. Decades later, Raccoon007 has successfully re-created a number of Brosnan’s outfits through Brioni.
Again, I would like to thank to @raccoon007japan and @inspiredbybond for helping to bring us this information. I would also like to thank Piero Cirino for the research he conducted many years ago.