In Octopussy, Bond goes to the casino in India wearing a button-one, peak-lapel ivory dinner jacket made by Douglas Hayward. According to the Designing 007 exhibition, the dinner jacket is made of linen, but it looks and performs more like a lightweight plain-weave worsted wool. It could possibly be a linen and wool blend. The costume designer Emma Porteous would likely have chosen a fabric that looks good on screen over what keeps Roger Moore the coolest, though the right kind of wool wears very cool.
The dinner jacket has double vents, jetted pocket and three-button cuffs. The buttons are made of white mother of pearl. The shoulders are narrow, softly padded and have roped sleeve heads. The peak lapels are fairly narrow. The button stance is low but it’s no lower than on Roger Moore’s button two jackets from this era.
The flat front trousers are black with a satin stripe down the straight leg. The trousers also have a sort of waistband that acts like a built-in cummerbund. The waistband is very wide, flat silk that extends across the entire front and fastens with two buttons at the right side.
The shirt made by Frank Foster is white cotton voile, a light-weight fabric that breathes well in hot and humid India. The shirt has a spread collar, placket front and double cuffs with rounded corners. It is well-fitted through the torso with two darts in the lower back to shape the waist. The shirt buttons are mother of pearl and the cufflinks are onyx. When Bond takes off his dinner jacket you may notice that his sleeves seem a bit long and bunch up at the wrist. This extra length isn’t seen when the dinner jacket is on because the cuff is tight enough that it doesn’t slide down the wrist or up the arm. The extra length allows the cuff to stay in place no matter how much the arm moves and bends.
With the dinner jacket and trousers, Bond wears a black satin bow tie and black patent leather slip-on shoes. Bond unfortunately gets a knife stuck in his dinner jacket below the breast-pocket welt, however Q-Branch magically reweaves the large hole so Bond can wear his dinner jacket again for dinner later that evening.