The Herringbone Linen Suit in The World Is Not Enough

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Pierce Brosnan’s cream herringbone linen suit in The World is Not Enough takes the suit down to a more casual level. Linen is a more casual fabric because of how easily it wrinkles, and this suit has casual details such as patch pockets and a single vent. But it still has the strong Brioni silhouette, with straight shoulders and a clean chest. The suit coat has a button three front and four buttons on the cuffs, with tan corozo buttons. The trousers have double reverse pleats, which surely helped Bond when he was strapped to the torture chair. The trousers have slanted side pockets and two rear pockets. The tapered trouser legs are finished with turn-ups.

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Because a linen suit is more casual than most and it’s worn only in warm weather, the absence of a tie is acceptable. Bond’s open-neck, French blue Turnbull & Asser shirt is made in oxford cloth. Though oxford cloth is heavier, the weave breathes well in warm weather. It has a spread collar, placket front, and 3-button cuffs. Bond wears light brown monk shoes from Church’s, dark brown socks and a dark brown belt. Actually, the belt looks black to me, but I don’t want to believe that it’s black because that would be a terrible mistake. Ideally, the belt should have been light brown to match the shoes.

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The suit and shirt were put up for auction at Bonhams in Knightsbridge, London on 6 March 2007 but did not sell. They sold there at a later auction on 16 June 2009 for £2,400. The auction identifies the shirt material as Sea Island Cotton. The listing incorrectly says the suit was from GoldenEye, but in the pictures it looks identical to the linen suit from The World is Not Enough and does not resemble any suit from GoldenEye. Additionally, if the shirt in the auction is actually the one that Bond wore with the suit, it would have been a Sulka shirt because Turnbull & Asser wasn’t even used in GoldenEye.

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14 COMMENTS

  1. Hi Matt,
    thanks for the great blog! Enjoying each post.

    Taking a closer look at stills from the movie although, I think its a little bit of a stretch believing the belt is brown, especially when compared to the other colors.

    And as far as I remember that "rule" is again broken in Quantum of Solace (although with casual clothing). Maybe it isn't followed at all anymore? Also, in my opinion, I'd prefer Bond wearing the suit without a belt at all.

    Cheers, Ben

  2. Very elegant and a good example of "casual" working for Bond. In marked contrast to some other less successful attempts at "casual" by some other actors who shall remain nameless.

    I agree re: the belt, Matt, as the rest of the ensemble is faultless.

  3. Matching the belt to the shoes is one of the most basic rules of men's clothing. Perhaps we've seen otherwise since Bond has been dressed by women. Anon, I agree that it would be better for the suit to be worn without a belt. But Italian suit trousers are cut with a lower rise that works better with a belt. But both the belt and the lower rise disrupt the flow of the suit.

  4. By 2011 standards the rise is high. But by traditional standards I'd say they could use another inch to make it up where Connery's and Moore's suit trousers sat. The rise doesn't look so low because the jacket has a slightly low button stance.

  5. Cool look, and vastly superior to the Beige linen in Diamonds. Brosnan pulls this off with aplomb.

  6. Matt , is this suit a pure linen one or a blend ?
    Infact , are ANY of the suits in the James Bond series pure linen ?

  7. The linen suit looks greyer then cream to my eye and it would work better for Brosnan’s cool complexion then a true cream. It almost stone in colour.

  8. It looks like this shirt has darts on the back, if I’m not mistaken. We rarely see Pierce without his jacket but there’s a brief glimpse when he’s about to dive after the submarine. (Of at least, the one his stuntman wears has them…).

    Not true of the ones he wears in Thomas Crown Affair though…

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