Gold: Navy Double-Breasted Suit in the Evening

17

Gold-Blue-Suit

In between Live and Let Die and The Man with the Golden Gun, Roger Moore starred in a movie called Gold. It’s very similar to a few Bond films, like a cross between Goldfinger and A View to a Kill, and it’s directed by On Her Majesty’s Secret Service director Peter Hunt. Moore dresses in a variety of outfits, but one of the best is a light navy double-breasted suit. This versatile suit takes Moore from a daytime social event to a night out. It’s the perfect suit for when you’re invited to an event that specified “cocktail attire” as the dress code.

Gold-Blue-Suit-2

The suit jacket is similar to that on the double-breasted suits that Conduit Street tailor Cyril Castle made for Moore’s first two Bond films, and Live and Let Die and The Man with the Golden Gun. It has softly-padded shoulders, a swelled chest and a nipped waist. It has six buttons with two to button like the standard double-breasted jacket, and the peak lapels are fairly timeless in their width. It is detailed with slanted pockets, deep double vents and flared link cuffs. The trousers have a darted front with a slightly flared leg.

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Moore dresses up the suit with a white cotton voile shirt made by Frank Foster. It’s in a similar style to the shirts in Live and Let Die shirts, with a large spread collar, placket and the same type of two-button cocktail cuffs from Live and Let Die. The tie is a large white neat pattern on a blue ground, tied with a four-in-hand knot. The shoes are black. Overall, the outfit is quite restrained for Moore’s tastes—especially compared to some of the other outfits in the film—and is something that would have been very appropriate for Bond in the 1970s.

17 COMMENTS

  1. Nice suit. Matt, the last photo in particular shows how misplaced this Roger Moore = 1970’s monstrosities chestnut is. All the other guests are dressed in what appears to be high fashion of the time whereas his character is, overall, quite conservative. As you state, some of his other outfits in this movie were a little more colorful but still nothing that screamed tasteless. I look forward to you maybe covering one or two more.

    • I saw this movie on an almost unwatchable dvd. Good to know it can be found elsewhere in a better print.

      • There are two versions of this movie on dvd, I have the second one which is much crisper and clearer than the first one, even though it is not as good as it should be. I actually first heard about this movie (and the movie Crossplot – which I’m looking forward to seeing on this blog) from comments made on an earlier post. Also, thanks to Matt, I’ve also picked up The Man Who Haunted Himself and The Persuaders, and the book Reading Between Designs, and I’ll soon have Marnie and Woman of Straw. I just wanted to say thanks for bring all of this to my attention – even if my wallet doesn’t quite agree.

  2. Very nice suit, very Bondian.

    David, I don’t quite agree that the association of Roger Moore with 1970s fashion is misplaced. Given what he wore in The Persuaders and in many photos of his private life, he always seemed quite fashionable during that time period, particularly given his not-exactly-young age during the decade. Even as The Saint, he was more fashionable than say Connery as Bond. It was in the 1980s, at least as Bond, that his style shifted to something more, at least what we perceive today as, “timeless”, both reflecting a shift in fashion in 1980ish and Roger’s advancing age.

    I do agree that Roger takes unfair criticism here for his fashions as Bond, as his suits simply reflect their era (as do every other actor’s, to varying degrees of acceptance on this blog),

    Top marks for this suit.

  3. Christian makes a good point but also raises another – we all know how Moore dresses off camera – it might have been a bit fashion forward in the 70s but he has his style and sticks to it. Connery, Lazenby and Dalton had not a clue how to dress off screen. Brosnan and Craig are products of a different era.

    • Excellent point, James. Roger certainly did seem to have a unified off-screen (and even on-screen) style.

    • Great Point. Brosnan’s offscreen style is hard to pin down. Lot’s of black seems to come to mind.

      Craig’s was at its best around 2007-09, I think.

      • Brosnan and Craig certainly have their own style offscreen. Craig has an excellent sense of colour, even if the fit of his clothes is very trendy. Brosnan likes dark shirts, but otherwise his sense isn’t bad at all.

        Incidentally, Brosnan’s photoshoot with GQ from a couple of years back shows him at his best – he looks lean and gracefully middle-aged, and (like Sir Roger in his advanced age) supremely understated and less flashy than he was as Bond and Remington Steele.

  4. Reason I say Brosnan and Craig are of a different era is that the 90s/00s are much less formal and (sadly, I think) more sportswear-centric. You see Brosnan in a nice suit at an awards show but out and about he just dresses down in jeans and a t-shirt. Same with Craig, who always looks as though he has been dressed by someone else at formal events. Whether you like the look or not, Moore could/can always be depended upon to put tother a blazer and flannels outfit and co-ordinate a shirt and tie. He is a man who clearly appreciates fabrics and patterns and takes an interest in how he dresses… a bit like we do! :)

  5. Christian, as usual, a balanced and fair assessment. You’re right. Would it be fair to say that his clothing was “somewhat fashionable” i.e. in keeping with the era in question without ever veering into the more extreme end of things? It’s just that when you get words like “monstrosities” etc, bandied about – as has been the case on this forum in the past – this implies that Moore’s wardrobe was some kind of extreme 1970’s kitsch which (we both agree) patently wasn’t the case. Interestingly, in the first really “OTT” Bond flick, “Diamonds are Forever” one contemporary reviewer described Connery’s Bond as being “just on the right side of square”. This description aptly described Moore’s 1970’s outings too while with the 1980’s his wardrobe probably (and I say this as someone who loves Hayward’s signature cut) could have been described as, at least somewhat, square. And while, as you point out the dawn of the 1980’s may have brought about a change in male fashions, the 1980’s had just as much examples of sartorial nightmares as any other decades (too wide shoulders, sloppy double breasted suits anyone…).

    Indeed, with Bond on screen even a cursory view of all 23 movies will show that there isn’t really a strict sartorial template except a certain amount of formal wear will be incorporated into the proceedings. After that it’s then a matter of personal taste and you’re absolutely correct in what you said before about no era really having a monopoly on what could be described as “timeless”. So it’s then about what particular Bond’s wardrobe gels with your aesthetics and I’ve no problem with that at all but if someone tries to place the suits from “Skyfall” or “Licence to Kill” on the same level as something from the rest of the series, be it a Sinclair, Castle or Hayward (or even the Ford stuff from “QOS”), then yes, I will say, apologies but you don’t know your stuff.

    James, indeed Moore always had his own particular style on screen and off and that was because (95% of the time) he just played Roger Moore whether it was in The Saint, Gold, The Spy Who Loved Me or coming right out, tongue cemented to cheek, and admitting the ploy in The Cannonball Run! And yes, the others you mentioned hadn’t a clue. Just look at Moore’s tailoring even in recent years if he’s photographed alongside the other actors to play the role which you mentioned. He sweeps the boards with ease!

    • Well said, David. I generally agree with your points. And Roger’s send-up of himself in The Cannonball Run is one of the best parts of that movie.

  6. A superb suit. Would be ideal for the visit to M’s office, or even for M or the Defence Minister, if they could be coaxed out of their three-piece suits. This “houndstooth” type of tie was often seen on statesmen and diplomats. I assume so they could lighten a black or dark navy suit without the use of a bold or loud tie. I guess you would have to have to get such a tie custom-made today as the pattern seems to have fallen out of favor.

  7. Just saw Gold on You Tube yesterday. While Sir Roger’s ties, the dress and music may be dates, the movie is excellent.

    Btw, might I recommend Cuba with Sean Connery? Also can be found on You Tube .

  8. The whole outfit is certainly well-cut and well put together. Too bad only Moore wore double breasted lounge -and evening- suits as Bond. After all it’s quite British -or at least it’s supposed to be nowadays. The tie is quite nice too, and makes me think of some of Craig’s ties in Casino Royale and in QOS that were quite similar, also worn with a dark navy suit.
    Otherwise I saw Gold a few months ago -there’s Moore and it’s from the director of OHMSS, so I thought it could be nice to watch- and found it less interesting than NSNA, with the exception of the beginning music. Funny how the plot has certainly inspired AVTAK, too !

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