Gold: Dressing Up a Bold Shirt

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Gold-Beige-Suit

Gold features Roger Moore in a James Bond-esque story but in a slightly more flamboyant wardrobe. Like Moore’s navy double-breasted suit in Gold, the beige jacket in that film could have been picked straight out of Live and Let Die or The Man with the Golden Gun. The jacket—perhaps made of a silk and linen blend—is tailored by Cyril Castle in the same style as the single-breasted suits that Moore wears in his first two Bond films. The button two jacket has softly-padded shoulders, a swelled chest, a nipped waist and medium-width lapels. It is detailed with slanted pockets, deep double vents and flared link cuffs. The tan wool trousers, though similar in value, contrast in texture and hue. have a darted front, a coin pocket below the waistband and a slightly flared leg.

Gold-Beige-Suit-2

The shirt is where Moore breaks from Bond style. It has a rust and navy check on a cream ground. Whist the pattern is bolder than something Bond would wear, the shirt has the same spread collar and cocktail cuffs that Moore’s Frank Foster shirts in Live and Let Die have. Such a bold shirt needs a simple tie, and Moore wears a solid rust-coloured tie that pulls out the rust in the shirt’s check. He ties it in a four-in-hand or a double-four-in-hand knot. Though the tie works well with the jacket and shirt, the bold shirt could keep the outfit interesting without a tie. This is the kind of outfit that can be worn well without a tie, but the tie keeps the outfit “tied” together. With the suit, Moore wears dark brown shoes, a wide dark brown belt and aviator sunglasses.

Gold-Beige-Suit-3

8 COMMENTS

  1. It’s only when viewed alongside the skewed proportions of modern era suits that one can truly appreciate how beautiful a suit can be with trousers of higher rise coupled with a lower buttoning jacket and a tie which is not as needlessly, excessively long as is the case nowadays. Everything comes together in sheer sartorial perfection.
    Nothing that screams out 1970’s “excess” here at all (neither was there in “Live and Let Die” or “Golden Gun”) with slightly flared trousers and medium width lapels. In fact, Moore would have appeared quite square to the 1974 eye.
    Deep double vents, darted front trousers. Beautiful. The color scheme here matches very well too.
    Furthermore, re: the “bold” shirt, is this really un-Bondian? Moore’s beige shirt with the dobby pattern, worn with his beige sports coat, in “Live and Let Die” and the brown striped shirt from “The Spy who Loved Me” were, arguably, equally “bold” and I can actually recall shirts in this type of pattern being quite popular about 15 years ago.

    • The dobby pattern isn’t really noticeable from a distance like this check is. The brown striped shirt is also more subtle since it’s only made of two colours rather than the three of this shirt. It’s also a bolder move to wear a checked shirt with a suit rather than a striped shirt. Shirts like this one are still fairly popular where I live, though for casual wear.

  2. PS: This is the kind of suit that can be worn well without a tie. True, but that kind of thing wasn’t so commonly done 40 years ago.

  3. You gotta love those tall spread collars. These are a staple in my wardrobe. When the height if the collar is small then the majority of the time the suit jacket drowns it out then it appears you are wearing a suit that belonged to your father.

  4. My first thought was that I would wear that shirt, as I don’t wear ties (or often jackets) to work. Is that really a suit? The pants look lighter and more orange then the jacket.

    Also, that belt looks really thick, much more like a jeans belt then a dress belt. Were dress belts thicker in the 70s too?

    • In some shots I chose the jacket and trousers look like a mismatch, and in other shots it looks like they match. You may actually be right.
      Thicker belts were more popular in the 70s for all kinds of dress, just like how everyone wore narrow belts in the 80s.

  5. Moore also wears a solid white/cream shirt with cocktail cuffs that screams Frank Foster. Could it be the ‘Live and let die’ train shirt being reused?

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