Evelyn Tremble: Too Many Patch Pockets

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Evelyn Tremble, played by Peter Sellers, is one of the many characters who become James Bond in the 1967 spoof of Casino Royale. He wears a very interesting tweed jacket on his visit to MI6. The button three jacket is made in a check with wide stripes of brown and a mix of brown and blue, separated with a grid of dark brown and a red overcheck. The jacket has softly-padded shoulders, a clean chest, narrow lapels, double vents and three-button cuffs. Though it must have been on purpose, the jacket’s collar noticeably stands away from the neck. This could be due to a poor fit, or the jacket could just deliberately be placed hanging off one side to make the character look sloppy. Tremble’s character is nothing like the James Bond he is recruited to be, and one of the things that sets him apart from Bond is his occasionally careless manner of dress.

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The pockets are a very unique part of this jacket. In addition to the usual breast pocket and two hip pockets there is also a ticket pocket. All of the pockets are patch pockets with slanted flaps. Patch pockets with flaps creates a very casual—but also bulky—look. Ordinary welt breast pockets are typical on jackets with flapped patch pockets to avoid having an awkward flapped patch breast pocket, but this jacket has the flapped patch breast pocket. When a jacket has a patch breast pocket, most often all the pockets are all open pockets. Most unusual is the inclusion of a patch ticket pocket. Because it’s a patch pocket, the pockets cannot overlap and the flap ends up above the waist because of the extra height needed for the patch. An ordinary welt and flap ticket pocket would have been best so the flap wouldn’t be so high up. Such a high ticket pocket visually shortens the torso considerably, and Peter Sellers was a slightly shorter-than-average man at 5’8″. Thus the extra patch pocket makes the jacket look very crowded. Ticket pockets in general can look crowded on a shorter man, but in any case there’s far too much going on with the pockets on this jacket.

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Tremble’s cream cotton poplin shirt fits much better than the suit does and was made by Frank Foster, who often made shirts for Peter Sellers. The shirt has a spread collar and double cuffs. Tremble wears a red knitted tie. The taupe trousers have a flat front and, most likely, cross pockets like his other trousers in the film have.

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4 COMMENTS

  1. My, this jacket fits almost as poorly as the Skyfall suit jackets. There are lots of creases at the buttoning point too. Plus that bright red tie with a shirt that looks really like white… it certainly hurts the eye !

    Anyway, let me the first to wish you in advance a Happy Christmas, Matt !

    • The difference between this jacket and the Skyfall jacket is that this one is meant to look sloppy. There wouldn’t be creases at the buttoning point if the jacket wasn’t hanging off his shoulders because it’s not too tight. Compare Sellers’s shirt with the man’s shirt next to him and you’ll see how off-white the shirt is.

      Happy Christmas to you too!

  2. I just spotted this on the back of the most recent post about Evelyn Tremble. His clothes may not fit perfectly, but I don’t think it’s a bad look. His jacket is too tight, and with the problems of the collar, although he may still appear slightly more well dressed than the average man wearing a suit today, if quite stereotypically academic in appearance. I like the red tie and white or ecru shirt combination, which I wear from time to time. In fact, I have a red knit tie similar to the one he wears in this film. If costumers were to put Connery or Lazenby in an identical suit, tie, and shirt combination, I would imagine that there would be an improved fit, likely excluding the extra patch on the breast pocket. Under what context might that have worked? In On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, it could have worked well with Bond’s disguise as Sir Hilary Bray, although I doubt it would have been fitting for You Only Live Twice.

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