After Evelyn Tremble, Peter Sellers’ character in the 1967 James Bond spoof Casino Royale, is given the name “James Bond”, he is also given a fresh wardrobe so he looks the part of the legend. One of James Bond’s favourite suits in the official EON James Bond series is the dark grey flannel suit, and it gives Evelyn Tremble the sophisticated look he needs to pretend to be James Bond.
Major Hayward, a popular celebrity tailor in the mid 1960s, made this dark grey woollen flannel suit for Sellers. Major Hayward was founded by tailors Dimi Major and Douglas Hayward, who later individually tailored official James Bonds. Dimi Major made clothes for George Lazenby as well as for other men in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Douglas Hayward tailored Roger Moore’s wardrobe for his last three James Bond films in the 1980s. Major Hayward was based in Royal Parade in Fulham, London, where Dimi Major would continue to operate after he and Hayward split no long after working on Casino Royale. Hayward then worked from shirtmaker Frank Foster’s basement storeroom on Pall Mall before establishing himself on Mount Street in Mayfair.
Hayward likely had more to do with this suit than Major, as it is similar to suits he made for others at the time. The suit has a button three jacket with three buttons on each cuff, straight flapped pockets on the hips, a narrow welt breast pocket, double vents and sporty swelled edges. The jacket is cut with softer shoulders and a close fit through the body. The fishmouth notch lapel—also known as a Parisian lapel or cran Necker—was one of Hayward’s signature styles at the time, which can be seen on Michael Caine’s blue suits in Alfie and in Get Carter. Hayward also used it on some of Roger Moore’s clothes in A View to a Kill. The lapels on this suit are slightly narrow, which was still the trend at the time.
The jacket for this suit has the same cut as Sellers’ checked suit I previously wrote about. The trousers for this suit are hardly seen, but they are likely made in the same style as the checked suit’s trousers, which have a darted front, frogmouth pockets, a classic rise to the waist and moderately narrow straight legs. Sellers wears the trousers with a black leather belt.
Sellers’ light blue end-on-end shirt from Frank Foster has a spread collar, a front placket and rounded double cuffs (with a large curve) with the link holes placed close to the fold to better show off the cufflinks. Straight from Ian Fleming’s James Bond, but not mentioned in the Casino Royale novel, the tie is black knitted silk with a straight hem, tied in a fat four-in-hand knot. He matches the puffed pocket square to the tie in colour but not texture with one in black woven silk. He wears black leather gloves with this suit.