The villain in Thunderball, Emilio Largo (Adolfo Celi), channels Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca in his ivory double-breasted, shawl-collar dinner jacket. Largo wears a ivory dinner jacket to contrast with Bond’s midnight blue dinner suit. The dinner jacket has a clean chest and wide shoulders with roped sleeve heads. The front has four buttons: button one, show two. It is detailed with four-button cuffs, jetted pockets and no vents. The buttons are mother of pearl. The black trousers have double forward pleats, suspended by white clip-on braces with brass hardware.
Largo’s dress shirt has a plain white spread collar, double cuffs and a narrow-pleated front. The shirt body is made in a white-on-white cotton. The front placket closes with two studs. Largo wears two black bow ties: a regular thistle and a narrower thistle with diamond ends. His black calf shoes have elastic gussets on the sides of the instep and either a plain or cap chiselled toe. G. J. Cleverly & Co. are known for making such a style, but Largo’s may have been made elsewhere. The shoes are elegant enough to pass with black tie, but they are versatile enough that the modern man can wear them with jeans.