Dressing For Your Season: Spring


We last looked at the winter complexion, the dark colouring we most associate with Bond. But the traditional dark blue and grey suits that look so good on those men aren’t as easy for the spring man to pull off. Roger Moore and Daniel Craig are both springs, with Craig on the lighter side and Moore on the darker. Springs have a warm complexion and lighter hair, with gold or red tones. Their eyes are also light, typically blue or green. Roger Moore has peach skin that tans to golden beige. His hair is always dyed in the Bond films, typically around golden brown though sometimes blonder, sometimes browner and occasionally with a hint of red. But it always fit spring. Daniel Craig always has golden blonde hair with a golden beige skin tone. Moore and Craig both have blue eyes. Warm colours and bright colours associated with the spring season look best on these men, though traditional standards of dress and the Bond history give good reason for these men to wear other colours as well.

The cream shirt and red tie are flattering to the spring man.

Roger Moore’s wardrobe is often criticised for having too much brown and tan, opposed to the grey and blue like Sean Connery and George Lazenby typically wore. Most people attribute the colour change to the trends in the 1970s, though Moore’s complexion might also have something to do with it. Spring men look best in warm colours like cream, camel, tan and richer browns. Roger Moore wore a lot of cream and ercu shirts because they fit his complexion, though he also wore a good number of sky blue shirts that also work well for springs. When he wore a grey suit, it was usually a lighter, warmer grey like the one in For Your Eyes Only. Brighter blues also look great on the spring complexion, like the marine blue suit from The Man with the Golden Gun. Bright, warm red ties were worn by Roger Moore in a number of films, and those do wonders for the spring complexion. When Roger Moore’s hair is dyed darker and he has a tan, he can wear charcoal suits well. Though hair dye doesn’t change the skin tone and eyes, it does change the colours one looks best in.

A light brown suit and clear blue shirt is one of the best looks for the spring man.

Daniel Craig, however, is often dressed in the more traditional Bond colours that better suit someone with winter colouring. The very dark blues and greys that Craig most often wears in the Bond films make him look colder and more distant, which is the goal for his Bond character. He is supposed to look meaner and more like a killer, so dressing him the opposite of Roger Moore achieves this. In Quantum of Solace Craig wore a lot of very dark blue, which helps his complexion a bit more than flat black does. Still, black looks okay on him. The most flattering suit that Craig has worn in the series so far is the light warm grey suit in Casino Royale.

Though black and white aren’t the most flattering colours for the spring complexion, they still look elegant.


  1. Since Roger designed his own apparel in The Persuaders! I wonder if he did not personally select (or at least provide a lot of input into) his own outfits for his role as Bond.

    • I’m sure he had a little input, but the clothes in Live and Let Die are quite different from what he was wearing in The Persuaders!. None of the flashy fabrics and a switch to 2-button suits from his usual 3-button (though he got some of his double-breasted suits and blazers in). But someone had to make sure he still looked somewhat like Bond, but Moore’s personal style does come through. His style outside of Bond sobered during his tenure, especially during the 1980s.

  2. I always thought Roger Moore looked his absolute best in a navy blazer and light blue tie, like the outfits he wore in the lab scene near the beginning of TMWTGG and in the Sardinia scenes in TSWL. He also looked very good in the DB blazer, white trousers and striped tie he wore near the end of TMWTGG, right before he goes to Scaramanga’s island. Today’s fashions are boring and anonymous by comparison – either t-shirt and jeans or solid dark suit, with nothing in-between.

  3. Like here there are bits of chat around the web undoing the popular conception of how Moore supposedly dressed badly during his Bond years. You’re on the button here about how he dressed for his complexion, which makes a lot more sense than having him dress in Connery’s wardrobe just because that’s how the Connery Bond dressed. A lot of the critics are just sartorially dim.

    Both Moore and Craig do work better in spring palettes, the final shot of Craig above makes him look a bit ill, though it may just be his world-weary expression.

  4. “A lot of the critics are just sartorially dim.” Sums it up well. Hardly a surprise though considering how low the standards surrounding men’s clothing/tailoring have plummeted in the last decade. What was traditionally considered “well dressed” seems to have shifted in many peoples perspective.

    This post is most informative, balanced and worthwhile although I doubt the naysayers will be swayed by balanced facts.

    In my opinion Moore was consistently the best dressed and most beautifully tailored of all the Bonds. There is nothing wrong with brown hues in men’s suiting. Just because the colour range seems to have fallen out of fashion doesn’t mean a discerning dresser should eschew it. I would be a spring shade myself and like these colours and they suit me.

    Moore’s light brown suit which you show here from For Your Eyes Only, paired with the blue shirt as well as the tan sports coat (again with blue shirt) from The Spy Who Loved Me are a couple of my personal all time favorites from the series, although as I say, with a few notable exceptions, Moore is an exemplary dresser.

  5. Very well written.

    I never had an issue with the colours Roger Moore wore, it was just some of the concessions to fashion at the time that bothered me. Flared trousers and all that. But considering the stuff his contemporaries were also wearing, his wardrobe is quite sober in comparison.

    When you mentioned Roger Moore dying his hair, I looked it up and found this interesting bit about the Bonds and their hair. I disagree with the poster about Dalton’s straight back look, which was a poor choice.


  6. And, for what it’s worth, I think Daniel Craig is a good study in why midnight blue is the best choice for evening wear besides the benefits of looking better in indoor lighting. The small hint of blue wouldn’t contrast as harshly with him as flat black.

    • Very true. But someone who truly believes in following the seasonal colours rather than history and dress codes would put Daniel Craig in a marine blue dinner suit. For a summer complexion a powder blue dinner suit would be most flattering. That’s why seasonal colour palates work best as suggestions. Whilst midnight blue only exists in the winter palate, the right hue of midnight will be far more flattering than black for anyone other than a winter.

  7. Hi Matt,

    How do you distinguish between an autumn and spring complextion? I have the same sort of golden brown hair as Roger Moore but much paler skin. I find that darker colours wash me out terribly – I have a very dark navy coat that makes me look almost ill unless I wear a lighter coloured scarf to soften the contrast with my skin.

  8. I’d be interested to see ‘dressing for summer’ and ‘dressing for autumn’! But I suppose there are limited examples from films, as all the Bonds so far have been winter or spring.

    • Wanted to second this. Obviously all Bonds thus far have been Winter or Spring, but maybe there could be articles on Bond -adjacent (maybe villains or allies) examples of Summer and Autumn?


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