Roger Moore brought James Bond into the 1980s with a new hairstyle and a new tailor. Starting in For Your Eyes Only, Douglas Hayward of Mount Street in Mayfair replaced Angelo as Roger Moore’s tailor. Doug Hayward had many other famous clients, including Michael Caine, Laurence Olivier, Tony Bennett, Noel Coward, John le Carré and Richard Burton. Roger Moore chose Hayward to be his tailor because was willing to visit Roger Moore at his homes outside the UK. Hayward became a close friend of Moore and continued to tailor his suits until Hayward’s death in 2008.
Hayward’s suits did away with the wide lapels and flared trousers of the 1970s and brought in a more traditional look for the 1980s. Suit coats have either a button two or button three front, with three-piece suits for most of the London scenes. Roger Moore started in the 1980s with a charcoal grey flannel button three, there-piece suit. Hayward’s suit coats have soft shoulders with roped sleeve heads. The chest is clean and the waist is fitted. The overall length of the coat is on the long side and extends slightly below the seat. The cuffs have three buttons and the pockets are straight with flaps. The jackets have double vents.
In For Your Eyes Only the trousers have a flat front, straight cut legs without turn-ups and are worn with a belt, including the three-piece suits. The waistcoat has a button six front and lower flap pockets.
The only part of the suit that looks dated now is the low button stance. Both the button two and button three coats have a low button stance, with the buttons closely spaced. However, the low button stance suits Roger Moore’s body and was also the style of his suits on The Saint. But unlike the more fashionable suits of the 80s, Hayward’s suits had a high gorge, where the collar meets the lapels. The high gorge combined with a low button stance lengthens Moore’s torso and makes him look taller.
The shirt is a navy and white Bengal stripe with a contrasting white collar and white cuffs, a very popular style in the 80s. The shirts in For Your Eyes Only have a tall spread collar with long points and two-button cuffs with a mitred edge. Bond wears a mildly slubby silk—like dupioni—plain charcoal tie with a small four-in-hand knot. The belt is black with a brass buckle and the shoes are black slip-ons.
There aren’t any good overall shots of this suit in the movie, though there is a good picture in the book The Essential Bond by Lee Pfeiffer and Dave Worrall.
The Frank Foster shirt was auctioned—but not sold—at Prop Store on 23 September 2015.