James Bond’s first suit in The Man With the Golden Gun is a double-breasted medium grey (with a hint of blue) flannel chalk stripe made by Cyril Castle. Roger Moore says on the DVD commentary for The Man With the Golden Gun that Angelo made this suit, but it has Castle’s unmistakable cut and style.
The double-breasted suit jacket is a button two, show one, with a total of six buttons. This jacket has wider lapels with more belly than the double-breasted suit before in Live and Let Die. But like the jacket before it, it has a narrow wrap, with the two columns of buttons placed close together. The pockets are slanted with flaps and there are long double vents at the back. The jacket cuffs have a link button.
The suit trousers have a darted front and slightly flared legs. The double-breasted grey chalk stripe is very much a business suit and gives Bond a more business-like image appropriate for the office in London.
The Frank Foster shirt has the same tall moderate spread collar as before along with two-button turnback cuffs. The pattern is a subtle grey and white fine stripe. The tie is a solid red in an Ottoman weave, tied in either a four-in-hand knot (if the lining is very heavy) or a double four-in-hand knot. The resulting knot is large and asymmetrical, which balances well with the rest of the outfit. Though the grey suit and grey tie do not flatter Moore’s warm complexion, the red tie brings a needed warmth to the outfit (needed for Moore, that is) to counter the sea of grey.
why did Moore wear db jackets with a narrow wrap? it does look a bit odd, at least to me.
A narrower wrap is more slimming, and Roger Moore wasn't as slim as he should have been for playing James Bond.
I'd say Moore was definitely at his slimmest here though, even more than Live and Let Die. In fact he looks a little gaunt and pained in parts of the film. That lovely red satin tie does him favours though.
Chris, I think you're right about Roger Moore being slimmest here, probably about the same as in Live and Let Die. The same narrow warp was on his double-breasted suits in the Persuaders, and then he was quite a bit heavier.
A lovely suit, though agreed about the lack of wrap.
This is one of the few suits Moore wore in the seventies that actually look sort of British. Another one is the brown tweed with elbow patches from Moonraker.
I love this blog!
What kind of slip on shoe do you think he is wearing with this outfit?
He’s most likely wearing side-bit loafers.
Thanks, it would make sense since he used the same shoes in this film.
Hello Matt, I had made the connection that this is the last film we see Benard Lee’s M wear double cuffs.
Do you have a possible guess why?
Also, please correct me if I am wrong, but is Lee wearing a Navy Glen Check suit. I always liked the look this suit Lee wears on this specfic scene. It looks well fitted to me, but I am no expert like you.