Don’t Forget the Double Vents: A Basted Brown Suit Jacket in Live and Let Die

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Live-and-Let-Die-Brown-Suit-Fitting

Roger Moore’s appreciation for fine tailoring can be seen in Live and Let Die with a tailor’s visit to Bond’s hotel suite for a fitting. The tailor is played by an actor (at least I think so), but the basted suit jacket is made by Roger Moore’s tailor Cyril Castle (a “Cyril A. Castle” label can be seen when Bond takes off the jacket). The suit is made of brown wool with a red and purple printed lining.

The button two jacket has the same cut the same as the rest of the jackets in the film. Well, it’s not a button two jacket yet since no buttonholes are cut and no buttons are sewn. The jacket has lightly-padded shoulders and a clean chest. There are basted slanted pockets with flaps. The cuffs are also basted without any buttonholes. The jacket is made with a single vent, but Bond does not like it and reminds the tailor, “don’t forget the double vents.”

Live-and-Let-Die-Brown-Suit-Fitting-2

Bond’s tailor has brought along his assistant, who presents Bond with a selection of ties. Bond chooses a crocodile scale-like patterned tie to wear with the sports coat he wears in the following scenes, along with a few others for later. The rest of Bond’s outfit here follows with his beige basketweave sports coat.

Live-and-Let-Die-Brown-Suit-Fitting-Ties

8 COMMENTS

  1. Good entry Matt. I recall the scene and that, interestingly,the finished product was never seen later in the move at all. Bit of a waste! As you mention, the dark brown trousers of the suit are then paired with the sports coat for Bond's trip to the Filet of Soul in New Orleans.

    The tie (and actually the pattern of the shirt) he selects is a little jazzier in style than Roger Moore's usual range but I'll leave that to you for your next entry.

  2. Could the scenes have been filmed in the studio in England (for Bond's New Orleans hotel), in which case the tailor could possibly be Castle himself? Just an idea.

    Also, when you see it here, the belt doesn't look of Bond/Moore's usual standard. In comparison with, for example, the belts featured in your previous blogs from Moore's next movie The Man With The Golden Gun, a bit shabby looking. Certainly not Gucci/Ferragamo by the look of it

  3. It probably was filmed in England, but the tailor does not look like Castle. The only picture I've ever seen of Castle is the one here:

    http://jamesbond.ajb007.co.uk/jamesbondclothing2/

    I'm pretty sure it's not the same man.

    The rest of the belts are all worn with casual wear and have center bar buckles. Moore doesn't wear belts with his suits in Live and Let Die.

  4. To be fair, making a bespoke suit takes a while and Bond was probably focused on other things than picking up his latest commission.

  5. The tailor here definitely looks like Castle to me. It would make sense, plus he’s the spitting image of the guy in the photo you linked. Don’t forget there’s probably c. 12/13 years in between him fitting Roger for The Saint and this scene, so he’s bound to look a little bit older.

    • It’s only a 5-year difference from that photo to Live and Let Die. The photo is likely from 1968 since it’s a suit being made for the final series of The Saint. Live and Let Die was from 1973.

    • Ah, I assumed it was from earlier in The Saint’s run. Even so, I think they look very similar facially and he has the same sideburns and widow’s peak, so it would make sense.

      Either way, it’s nice to see Bond actually being fitted for a suit for once, seeing as he seems to have an unlimited supply!

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