Pierce Brosnan’s last Brioni dinner suit of the series in Die Another Day is the same button one peak lapel jacket that costume designer Lindy Hemming always dresses Bond in. The midnight blue dinner jacket is cut with straight shoulders and a clean chest, but with a rather straight cut through the body that’s flattering to Brosnan’s figure. The jacket is classically detailed with jetted pockets, four buttons on the cuffs and no vents. The lapels and buttons are covered in black grosgrain silk. The trousers have a darted front.
Even though Brioni made the regular formal shirts for this film, the dress shirt (Tuxedo shirt) is from Turnbull & Asser. What says this is Turnbull & Asser’s double cuff, which has the link holes placed close to the fold, whilst Brioni puts their link holes in the middle. The shirt is made of cotton voile and has a spread collar, a covered placket to hide the buttons and narrow pleats on the front. The collar, cuffs and placket are made in cotton marcella. Brosnan wears a black crosswise-ribbed silk, thistle-shaped bow tie. Brosnan follows the classic Bond tradition and wears neither a waistcoat nor a cummerbund with this dinner suit.
Nothing but class….
Why wouldn’t you wear a cummerbund with this outfit?
A black tie outfit should always include a waistcoat or cummerbund, but foregoing those elements is something that Bond often does.
The cummerbund has gone the way of the top hat and the opera cape. It is something that British officers copied from Indian gentlemen that used to wear a piece of cloth around their waists on formal occasions. Im glad is dead. The cummerbund looks bad especially on men with a belly.
Personally I prefer black tie without the cummerbund. As long as you have a correct rise and suspenders I am satisfied. Of course a waistcoat is a better alternative but perhaps a bit formal for Bond in this situation. Besides, cummerbunds tend to look sloppy on gentlemen with a slight belly (sorry Pierce).
It should come as no surprise that I really like this. Die Another Day is an utterly ridiculous movie, and yet it is aesthetically speaking a very good-looking one. Lots of classic Bond glamour elements– the cars (when we can actually see them!), the clothes, the leading ladies, the locations, and the fencing scene. It’s a shame that the plot is ludicrous and the stunts all look phony. It’s my generation’s Moonraker, beautiful looking and glamourously over the top!
A personal favorite. I usually prefer black for dinner suits, but this is very good.
And no, I didn’t like Tom Ford’s blue dinner jacket for Skyfall. The black shawl collar is also awful.
Why do you dislike the shawl collar?
I have no problems with the shawl collar.
I believe, in the case of Skyfall, that the blue tone used in the dinner jacket was too… fashion. It just didn’t match the character. The black shawl collar ruined the suit also. I’d prefer if it was only black, or a darker shade of blue.
Regards.
I believe you are right about the shirt being from T&A. I think it is one of the Bond-shirts they have (or had) on display in the Bury st locale.
S
I’d think the reason for having Bond wear niether a waistcoat nor a cummerbund is because of the scene where he is undressing very quickly in the ice hotel suite. Such a garmen would not be as easy to remove. And if Connery could wear a tuxedo without a cummerbund, all other men can too.
Matt, do you know if Brosnan wore a waistcoat or cummerbund with his tuxedo in the casino scene in TWINE (wich was very similair in style to this one)?
There was no waist-covering in The World is Not Enough either.
Matt, could you please clarify what you mean by a “clean chest”? It seemed obvious at first, but then I wondered what would constitute an unclean chest!
The opposite of a clean chest is a draped chest that has a lot of extra cloth that folds at the sides. Connery’s suits do not have a clean chest.
Excellent. Probably my favorite of Brosnan’s tuxedos (only TWINE is competitive; just personal taste). Nicely cut despite Brosnan’s ballooning weight (I believe he is heavier here than even Connery in Diamonds).
On a personal note, I never wear a cummerbund or a waistcoat, figuring if it is good enough for Bond, it is good enough for me. And I think the look is simpler and less fussy that way. Also, I do prefer the shawl collar. I am curious as to why others do not like them.
Matt, do you have enough info on the suit that Bond wears earlier in DAD when he meets M and Q in their secret meeting room where Bond Gets the Aston Martin Vanquish?
Yes, I have plenty on that suit. I’ll probably be posting about it later this month.
Awesome! Looking forward to it!
Excellent! Very well done by Matt and posters!
I’m just curious, how can he take the pants off when in the restroom
The same way you’d take any trousers off when going to the restroom?
Thanks.
I’m not mad about the tie. It looks very boxy.