The Differences Between the Skyfall and Spectre Tom Ford O’Connor Suits

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The Tom Ford O'Connor jacket in Skyfall, left, and in Spectre, right
The Tom Ford O’Connor jacket in Skyfall, left, and in Spectre, right

Costume designer Jany Temime updated the style of the Tom Ford O’Connor suit for Spectre from her and Tom Ford’s original design made for Skyfall. The style changes are easy change to identify, and the biggest difference is the lapel roll. Both suits have three buttons, but whilst the lapel ends just below the top button on the Skyfall jackets, the lapels rolls to the middle button and completely over the top button on the Spectre suits. This is known as “button two, show one” or “three-roll-two”. The lower foreparts—or quarters—of the Spectre jackets are more cutaway than on the Skyfall jackets, but this results in a triangle of shirt showing between the fastened jacket button and top of the trousers. This is not a problem with the jacket but rather a problem with the trousers’ low rise. The lapel roll and quarters on the Spectre suit jackets emphasise the silhouette’s dramatic shape better than the straighter button three front of the Skyfall suit jackets does.

The Spectre O’Connor jackets have four buttons on the cuffs instead of the three buttons that are on the cuffs of the Skyfall jackets. The other details of the jackets are the same: straight shoulders, roped sleeve heads, gently slanted pockets and single vents.

The suit jackets in Spectre fit a little different from the suit jackets in Skyfall, but the jackets in both films share many of the same fit problems. The jackets are all fashionably short and have too much waist suppression. In comparison to the Skyfall jackets, the Spectre jackets have a fuller chest, wider shoulders and fuller sleeves. The tighter chest on the Skyfall jackets pulls open, and the narrower shoulders de-emphasise Daniel Craig’s herculean form. These fit comparisons are based on the fit of the jacket in comparison to Craig’s body.

The measurements of the jackets in both films may actually be the same, and because Daniel Craig is no longer so brawny, the jackets in Spectre may look fuller in the upper torso . His slimmer, but still fit, build in Spectre gives the suits an easier fit up top. Whilst the jackets in Skyfall look like they are a full size too small, the jackets in Spectre look like they are the right size (defined by the chest and shoulders) but just have too much waist suppression in the wrong places. Rather than the “shrunken” or “bursting out” look of Skyfall, the suit jackets in Spectre only look poorly shaped at the waist. It’s a slight improvement.

There’s nothing wrong with a closely fitted suit, but to be a well-fitting suit it needs to smoothly follow the contours of the body. Daniel Craig’s suits in both Skyfall and Spectre do not do a good job of following his figure. If the goal is to show off Craig’s physique, a suit that perfectly follows his body with smooth, clean lines will show it off better than a suit with a distorted shape and stressed creasing.

The suit trousers didn’t change much from Skyfall to Spectre. In both films they have a low rise, which seems even lower because the trousers tend to sag down. The trousers are made in the same style in both films, with a wide extended waistband, slide-buckle side-adjusters, side seams curved forward at the top with on-seam pockets, narrow straight legs and turn-ups. The trousers in Spectre were hemmed a bit shorter than they were in Skyfall.

Daniel Craig wears four Tom Ford O’Connor suits in Spectre: a two-piece blue and black Prince of Wales check with a light blue windowpane, a two-piece grey herringbone with a track stripe, a two-piece blue sharkskin and a three-piece anthracite pin point damier check. All of Daniel Craig’s suits in Skyfall were made in the O’Connor style.

54 COMMENTS

  1. Matt, I very much enjoy reading your articles.

    I think that the fit problems are deliberate. I doubt it has anything to do with Craig’s altering physique. I remember reading an interview about QoS (can’t remember where) and it was said that they constantly had to take in his trousers during filming because he was so active. His waist kept shrinking.

    All the pulling, creasing, shrunken and bursting out look with the coat are very easily altered. I am constantly getting coats taken in/out. I like a close fit but not to the ludicrous extent of Skyfall. I would have the coat let out long before it got to that stage – which is usually after the christmas period!

    In a film of the production scale of Skyfall and Spectre, they would certainly have had whole armies of costume people to do this. Before every take.

    I think that we are just in a period where they think this undersized look is in vogue. The polar opposite to the oversized License to Kill era.

    • Whilst the clothes can be altered on set, a lot of the pulling cannot be altered. I’ve seen how the size 48 suit fit. It’s just not the right cut. The back fits fine, which is what where alterations are done. It’s the shape of the front that has the problems, and the front cannot be altered. Letting out the jacket in the back would not be correct. Most ready-to-wear jackets don’t have the kind of shape in the front that Tom Ford jackets have, which is why the alterations you’re used to work for you.

    • All adjustments I have had done on my suit jackets due to weight fluctuations have been at the seams that run from under the arm down to the double vent. They have about 2 inches of give in there. All my jackets are double vented, they say single vent jackets can take more severe adjustments along this line. They can make quite dramatic changes to the waist and silhouette here. And sort out any pulling/looseness at the front button. Interestingly, they said they have worked on a Tom Ford suit once, not sure what they did to it though.

      Maybe they can’t do this adjustment on a Tom Ford suit for some reason, but I’m not sure why. When I saw this pic, the first thing I thought of was that that seam needed to be moved:

      https://www.bondsuits.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Spectre-London-Premiere-Tom-Ford-Dinner-Suit-3.jpg

      • Alterations can not fix a suit when the cut is wrong for the person wearing it. Alterations are always done at the side seams, whether or not the jacket has single or double vents. No other seams should be touched, and altering those seams cannot properly fix anything. Double vent jackets typically can be taken in more. When a single vented jacket is taken in too much it causes the vent to pull open. The problem with Craig’s jackets in Spectre is that there is too much suppression at the front and underarm darts. Letting out the side seams won’t put the fullness in the right place. Most ready-to-wear jackets don’t have so much shape in the front, so normal alteration wisdom doesn’t apply. I have a jacket that is too shaped in the front, but letting out the jacket at the side seams isn’t going to fix it. It will just create fullness in the back and the front will still pull. Daniel Craig’s jackets have the same problem because the front dart is too severe. Tailored jackets have a complex shape.

        About the dinner jacket at the premiere, the back needs to be wider and the sidebody needs to be smaller. Alterations cannot fix this. The cut is the problem.

  2. I think the silhouette of the suits in SPECTRE is more flattering on Craig. He looks both taller and more commanding than he did in Skyfall. The short jacket really bothers me, but overall I didn’t find myself fixating on the poor fit while watching the film like I did when I watched Skyfall the first time. Small steps in the right direction. Perhaps next time everything will fit.

    • I, too, thought the suits looked a little better in SPECTRE, and that Craig looked, as you said, “taller and more commanding” (except in his fight with Dave Bautista, who is a monster). In the picture Matt posted, however, one would think the opposite to be the case. I guess it’s not that easy to judge the fit of clothes from movie stills. I also agree with Matt that the suits fit better in the back than in the front, which is the opposite of what one normally observes.

    • The shirts and ties in SPECTRE are also an improvement, even though I would like to see a little more pattern in the ties.

  3. As others have mentioned, Craig suits sported (again) fit issues, but overall he does look better than in Skyfall. Matt, how would you rate Dave Bautista’s suits ( byTimothy Everest, I believe) vis a vis Craig’s suits re: fit ? Is the fit evinced on Dave Bautista in the film and the Spectre premieres (Mexico and the UK premiere in particular) a good example for how to fit an athletically built individual?

  4. Matt, thanks for keeping this site so interesting. I was never much for suits, but after reading through the archives here and learning a bit about them and how they can look on different guys, I bought two; now when I go out for an evening with my wife, she often asks “Are you wearing that suit tonight?” A tip o’ the hat to you.

    • Dan, a while back I worked for House & Home Magazine; we had a regular feature of a page with two staged photos of a room; on the left the room was set up with top-end furnishings ($10K sofas, etc) and then the right-hand setup was similar furnishings but all sourced at one-tenth the price. Of course experts could tell the differences, but the general appearance was alike. Even limiting both to off-the-rack suiting, I’d be the right-hand photo… 😉

  5. Matt, as usual, you hit the nail on the head. The suits are so obviously undersized but the overall cut is totally at fault and there is absolutely nothing you can do about that! These are undoubtedly the worst fitting suits that I have ever seen on a human being!

  6. I am calling the Emperor’s New Clothes on these Ford Suits. How can there be a triangle of shirt showing on a suit that costs, what, $5000 ?

    This is basic stuff you wouldn’t accept on a $1000 off the rack suit.

    Are you guys blinded by the fact that is a “Bond” suit? Whatever that means these days…

    • The thing about the fit problems is that there is nothing Tom Ford and his tailors did wrong. Tom Ford suits are beautifully cut if done right, and if you look up some of the suits worn by other people, like Harvey Spectre in the TV show Suits, the suit is cut close to the body with a contemporary fit, but no pulling. Jany Temime is the one to blame, because she is the one telling the tailors to make it tight, because she wanted a modern look. In Skyfall, she said she wanted a 2012 look for Bond, but obviously, she did it wrong. I think if she told the tailors to have the suit have a couple inches more room in the waist and have the suits cover his buttocks, Tom Ford’s tailors would have done it, because they are tailors after all who were trained to deliver what the client wanted, but because Temime wanted a shrunken fit, they delivered what she asked for. Tempe is ultimately the one to blame, because Tom Ford had no influence over what she asked for.

  7. Unfortunately many men at the more fashionable end of the spectrum seem to have taken to the Pee-wee Herman look with great enthusiasm.

    It’s now close to becoming the norm. I was reading a piece in a British newspaper recently about bond suits – the writer was enthusing about the fit of Craig’s suits, and dismissing Brosnan as wearing suits that were clearly too large for him.

  8. The suits looked an improvement over Skyfalls very tight ones. Hard to believe Craig is leaner and less muscular in Spectre then in Skyfall when the physique trend for movie stars are definitely for ‘big is best’ eg. Hugh Jackman, Matt. Hugh Jackman wants a shot at James Bond, do you think he could succeed Craig ?. He would be nearly 50 at that time, if he does.

    • There’s no way Hugh Jackman could get James Bond. Mainly because he is too old (would into his 50s, since Craig is likely to do another), but also because he is too famous. No Bond actor was a top movie star before Bond. Look at unknown actors in their early-mid 30s now for who will be the next Bond.

    • As I thought with Jackman. I don’t think he is the right type personally and would be too old. Which did you like better Skyfall or Spectre ?.

  9. That’s all correct, but quite astonishingly in 1960s Broccoli and Saltzman first considered James Mason for the role of Bond although he also was already in his 50s. But today of course that would not be an option.

    BTW: I thought that Craig has denied that he definitely wants to turn down Bond (?) So perhaps your speculations about a successor are a bit overhasty?

  10. Simon, I have to take a bow to your sound and sensible comment.
    At $5’000 a suit, the ‘triangle’ (among other things) is the proof that money can buy fashion, but not taste…. Let alone class.

    Maybe next time they can opt for Hackett as a more efficient price to quality ratio ?
    http://www.rte.ie/lifestyle/fashion/news/2013/0904/472145-brosnan-is-new-face-of-hackett-london/
    Classic, effortless, stylish, commanding, etc…
    Some men want to be him. Again.

    Although in all honesty, even there (Hackett) one can find some recent monstrosities: infamous triangles, ‘vacuum packed’ style, too short jackets. Yet overall, it gives a better impression that Tom Ford’s attire in Spectre, and also at a fraction of the final price.
    A bonanza for traditional tailors, who are becoming safe havens of good taste.

  11. I think everything that can be said about Craig’s suits in this style has been said at this stage. Having just watched the movie, the Windsor model is far more opulent and pleasing looking on him. It’s a shame about this “problematic” model as the colours and materials used in these suits (especially the Mexico and Morocco climax suit) are really beautiful.

    Overall, I think they have made a decent effort to “correct” several issues in this movie (for me, the best of Craig’s movies and the best overall, at least, since Pierce’s debut) and suits aside, a lot of his wardrobe was pretty good overall. One of the worst (and inexplicable) faux pas’ in SPECTRE was his wearing his overcoat whilst seated in M’s office. What was all that about??

    Non-sartorial issues: Will they please trim their tendency for overexposing London as a location and for bloody well labeling every location they switch to?? This is superfluous and stupid and has been a feature since Pierce’s era. Also, let’s ditch this “he’s making a new start” theme, which, after 4 movies has worn itself out. Thankfully they reinstated the opening gunbarrel sequence to where it was traditionally. This was another nonsensical “reboot” they finally woke up to.

    • I agree with you, David. Craig has slowly grown into the roll and, although the film has some flaws, I think it was his best performance.

      I also thought the casual wardrobe was excellent. The turtlenecks, polo, and jackets were all beautiful and Craig looked great in then.

  12. Will probably catch some flak for this, but I think far too many people are judging Tom Ford only on the O’Connor suits. The other models he makes are far more pleasant to look at. But even then, some other people have been seen wearing the O’Connor better than Craig himself! Are they still overpriced and you could get a bespoke suit with all the features elsewhere? Absolutely. But they are not mere designer trash. They are actually well made and can look great if fitted correctly. Let’s take a look at the Quantum of Solace suits, which despite one glaring error (sleeves too long — a problem I think Hemming and Frogley were both ignorant of in fitting menswear), suit Craig’s build pretty well. They are actually my favourite suits of the Craig era. And the single breasted peak lapel suits which are Ford’s signature style look pretty damn good. Take a closer look at a lot of the features, like the curved on-seam trouser pockets, and you’ll see a lot of attention was paid towards the making of his suits.

    • I tend to agree. Colin Firth is generally seen wearing Tom Ford these days, since their collaboration on A Single Man. I think he looks very smart and his suits don’t suffer from the fit issues that mar the recent Ford/Craig suits as I see it. And Quantum of Solace shows that Ford’s suits can really flatter Craig. It’s a deliberate choice to make them (particularly in Skyfall) ill fitting.

      That said, I don’t really know why, when Ford’s suits cost a similar amount to Saville Row, anyone would chose to buy one of his rather than go bespoke. Not having the money, it isn’t an issue I have to worry about though…

  13. Why did Craig switch from the Regency in Quantum of Solace to the O’Connor’s in Skyfall and Spectre? I think that the Regencys in Quantum of Solace are the best suits that he has worn as Bond. They fit him pretty much perfectly and they complement his body the best. It’s a bummer that they shrunk his suits in almost every way. Why did they do that?

    • A new costume designer wanted to design her own suit for Skyfall. She wanted tailoring more inspired by the contemporary fashions and wanted to show off Craig’s physique better. Unfortunately, she doesn’t understand that a suit that is too tight does a terrible job at showing off one’s figure.

    • I also think that the cut of the O’connors and the Regencys are very different. I feel that the O’connor gives a person a very skinny, weaker look. And they certainly don’t look good on Craig considering how muscular he is. I feel that the O’connor is also much less structured in the shoulder than the Regency, with much less padding and no roped sleeveheads, therefore giving the Regency a much stronger cut and feel. Am I correct; which one is more structured; the Regency or the O’connor?
      Also, Matt, I feel that I cannot find suits in common department stores like Macys or JcPenny that fit me perfectly. If you only had suits that were either too tight or too loose, which one would you buy if you don’t have a lot of money? I would probably buy the tight one because at least I don’t look fatter and that I have more weight than I actually do.

      • The Regency has a bolder silhouette, but both have a similar amount of structure. You should buy a suit that is a too large rather than too tight because you can have it taken in. It’s more difficult to let out a suit.

    • I also wanted to ask: Which one has the stronger cut? The Regency or the O’Connor? I believe that it is the Regency because of a more structured shoulder. Am I correct?

  14. Why do you say that the O’Connors in Spectre are bad fits? They look like they fit right. The three-roll 2 that it is supposed to have is there instead of the 3 roll 2.5. Other than that it looks fine. What is wrong about the fits in Spectre?

    • I think the problem is that the Skyfall suits are pronounced bad fits and the Spectre suits have only little improved. From seeing that the skyfall suits are 3-roll-2.5 when they are made to be 3-roll-2 clearly shows that the jacket is too tight. What I mean by 3-roll-2.5 is that the top button is 50% visible and 50% not visible but on a 3-roll-2 the top button is 98% not visible. If you take a look at the rope stripe suit in Skyfall you will see that the top button is half visible. However the Spectre jackets look fine. I somehow feel that they are bad fits, but none of them are very evident in the look. I think that the lapels only slightly pull back in the Spectre jackets, as you can see in the sharkskin suit above. So that obviously means that the jackets are still tight. But why does the fit of the spectre suit look to be like it’s the perfect fit? Did Craig’s waist lower in size?

      • All of the answers are in the article. And please read this first paragraph of this article again. THE LAPELS ON THE SKYFALL SUITS ARE CUT TO ROLL AT THE TOP BUTTON, NOT THE MIDDLE BUTTON. The common misconception about the Skyfall suits that I’ve tried to educate people about in many article on this blog. The front is pulled open further towards the middle button because the suit is too tight. The Skyfall and Spectre suits not only fit differently, they are also cut differently. Craig’s chest size in Spectre is smaller.

  15. Why is it that the costume designer for skyfall and spectre did not have any idea that the O’connors did not fit well on Bond? Not only are the O’connors bad physical fits on Craig, the don’t work well with Daniel Craig’s physique. Not to mention that both the tuxes had a single vent, which is not good on dinner jackets, and the Spectre dinner jacket added a 2 button front along with the single vent! The Regencys in Quantum of Solace were perfect on him, but this dumbass costume designer completely ruined Bond’s look in Skyfall and Spectre. I also think that any man with a muscular physique should wear suits with narrow lapels. If I have a muscular physique similar to Craig’s(but I am quite a bit shorter than him, 4.5 in shorter), do you think the Regency or the O’Connor is a better fit on me? I personally like the Regency better because it has a bit of a stronger feel to it than the O’connor. do you think the I would say that this costume designer or the License to Kill costume designer is the worst of the series. Who do you think is the worst costume designer of the series?

    • The Licence to Kill costume designer is the worst of the series. Jodie Tillen and Jany Temime were both going for very fashionable looks, where fashion is more important to them than what fits or looks good on the man they are dressing.

  16. Hi, Matt.

    Great article once again. I just find it curious that while they referred to the SKYFALL suits as the O’Connor fit, they all seem to have the details of the Falconer suit from A Single Man (very narrow lapels, slightly slanted flap pockets, lack of waist pocket). I’m assuming that the O’Connor was directly based off the Falconer. In SPECTRE, the O’Connor lapels are a bit wider and they seem to resemble more the rtw O’Connors that you can find on TF, Mr. Porter, and Neiman Marcus.

    • In ready-to-wear, the O’Connor model has a different fit from the Falconer. The details of Craig’s O’Connor suits are slightly different from the suits in A Single Man. The Skyfall and Spectre suits as advertised by Tom Ford are the Fit Y “O’Connor” model (though the peaked lapel jackets in Spectre are the Fit A “Windsor” model). On the other hand, Daniel Craig’s suits in those films are marked “Fit F”, which corresponds to the Falconer fit. You may be right that the O’Connor was developed from the Falconer.

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