Daniel Craig’s Sky Blue Anderson & Sheppard Suit in Hollywood

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For press events surrounding the release of No Time to Die, Daniel Craig has been wearing tailored clothes from a variety of brands, including his James Bond-series clothier Tom Ford, Brunello Cucinelli and Savile Row tailors Richard James, Henry Poole and Anderson & Sheppard.

On 6 October 2021, Daniel Craig was honoured with a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame outside 7007 Hollywood Boulevard near Roger Moore’s star. For the occasion he wore a bespoke double-breasted two piece suit in sky blue cotton made by legendary Savile Row tailor Anderson & Sheppard. Anderson & Sheppard are now located in Old Burlington Street, which is a block from Savile Row, but their heritage and nearby location still allows them to be called a Savile Row tailor. Senior Coat Cutter at Anderson & Sheppard Leon Powell cut the suit.

Anderson & Sheppard also made the pink velvet double-breasted dinner jacket that Craig wore to the No Time to Die premiere. The suit jacket here looks similar, but it lacks the standard top row of buttons. While the pink dinner jacket was very controversial, particularly for a James Bond premiere, the sky blue suit has been met with almost universal praise. It’s a strong look, but it combines Daniel Craig’s love for double-breasted suits with something that James Bond might wear. Though this suit does not immediately bring James Bond to mind, George Lazenby’s Bond wears a sky blue suit in Portugal in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service when picking out a wedding ring. Roger Moore wears a cool grey silk suit in The Man with the Golden Gun when meeting Andrea Anders that has a similar look. Roger Moore also wears a three-piece suit in this sky blue colour in The Saint.

The suit’s fabric was made by Scabal, a Belgian textile company that weaves most of its cloths in Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK. It’s one of the world’s premiere fabric suppliers, and Pierce Brosnan and Daniel Craig both wear Brioni suits made of Scabal cloths in the role as James Bond. Craig’s suit for the Hollywood event is a 9-ounce sky-blue denim-effect cotton, Scabal number 501305.

It’s a good medium-weight suit for moderate weather, though Los Angeles’ weather in autumn can be perfect for almost any kind of suit. This Scabal cloth is woven in a 3×1 twill weave like denim or drill. Cotton makes for a very informal suit, whether it’s lightweight cotton poplin in summer or heavy corduroy in winter. Being double-breasted does not raise the formality of this suit, as it is the fabric that primarily determines how dressy a suit is. Though Craig was not the most formally dressed at the event, he looks confident and comfortable in this suit, and the colour helps him stand out. However, sky blue makes this suit more of a daytime suit, so it is not the ideal choice for this evening event.

The double-breasted suit jacket has button two, show two front, which lacks the top row of show buttons typically found on a double-breasted jacket. The peak lapels are a medium-wide width and have a buttonhole on each side, per English tradition to match the lapels buttonholes to the buttonholes on each side at the jacket’s waist. The jacket has a long lapel thanks to a very high gorge—the seam where the collar meets the lapel. Rather than being in the upper chest, the gorge is up in the shoulder area. Since Craig is of average height, this helps him look a bit taller. The button stance is just slightly high, so while the high button stance elongates Craig’s lower half, the high gorge give his upper half as much length as possible.

The shoulders are soft with gently roped sleeve heads. The jacket is detailed with double vents, four buttons on the cuffs—the second button on his right cuff was dangling by a thread—and two open patch pockets on the hips. The patch pockets match the informal nature of a cotton suit. Smoke mother of pearl buttons give the suit a luxurious but elegant touch.

The jacket has a close fit, but fit doesn’t look perfect for a few reasons. Daniel Craig’s body changes over short periods of time, and the close fit is less forgiving to that. Craig’s biceps were probably a bit smaller when he had his fitting for the suit. But more than that, cotton does not have the best draping properties, which means that the shape of the suit doesn’t fall back into place as easily as with wool after moving around. And if Daniel Craig isn’t standing exactly the right way, it isn’t going to look perfect.

Cotton does not play so well with Craig’s preference for a close fit, and a little more fullness would have helped the jacket look neater. If Craig had buttoned the jacket at the bottom row instead of at the top (à la the Duke of Windsor), he’d have enough room in the waist.

The flat front suit trousers have straight tops, straight side pockets, a rear hip pocket on the right, a cross over band and plain hems. The leg is narrow but not tight and sits with a full break over the shoe.

@whatsdanielwearing on Instagram identified his shirt as Budd, his tie as Charvet, his pocket square as Turnbull & Asser, his shoes as the Crockett & Jones ‘Pembroke’ in black cavalry calf and his sunglasses as the Vuarnet Legend 06 from No Time to Die. Craig was styled by George Cortina. The look is mostly representing the best of British brands; France’s Charvet and Vuarnet are fine exceptions.

The white shirt from Budd Shirtmakers is made from Swiss Soyella Egypitain cotton with a luxurious 170 thread count, and it has a point collar and double cuffs. Craig wears the collar without stays to give it a more relaxed look that goes nicely with the casual cotton suit. The cufflinks appear to be inlaid mother of pearl.

The Charvet tie is solid navy, and the Turnbull & Asser pocket square matches in solid navy. The tie and pocket square give off the effect of the dreaded matching set, even though they are not exactly the same. It would have been nice for either the tie or the pocket square to have a pattern to it, like a pindot, to prevent it looking like they came from a set.

The shoes are the Crockett & Jones ‘Pembroke’, which is full-brogue (wingtip) derby. The shoes have a sporty style that pairs perfectly with the rather informal suit.

36 COMMENTS

  1. I wondered if this suit was by the same tailor as the pink velvet jacket. The colour of this suit really makes him standout from everyone else Craig is photographed with, who are wearing more traditional dark colours for evening wear. I very much like like how Daniel Craig pushes at the restrictions of what is regarded as acceptable for formal menswear

  2. Two comments/questions:

    1. That suit looks like a much closer fit that what I always thought an A&S suit would be. Would you still consider that the A&S house style?

    2. What is cavalry calf? I have seen that before on Crockett and Jones website. Is it more or less formal than their normal calf? What is it appropriate for.

    Thanks.

    • The C&J website has a guide to Cavalry Calf leather on their website which states:

      “CAVALRY CALF
      A strong calf leather with special treatment on the surface to give it a highly polished finish. Popular with the fashion industry, this leather works equally well with leather soles for dress shoes and chunky rubber soles for more casual wear.”

      Which sounds to me awfully like ‘corrected grain leather’. I hope I am wrong as I am a big fan of Crockett & Jones but at £440 per pair (Current UK price) I would expect better.

      • Thanks. Personally, I have never been a fan of anything too shiny or glossy. Maybe for black tie but that is it.

  3. I think you’ve got it bang on Matt, the make
    Is very nice but the fabric versus the cut aren’t as flattering as they could be.

    In a good few of the pictures I had the temptation to pull the jacket down as it looks to ride up quite a bit. As you say, wool would pop back fairly easily, cotton doesn’t always behave.

    Still, beautiful suit that suits DC’s style very well.

  4. Matt, any insight as to why we’re seeing brands on DC that we aren’t accustomed to seeing, ie. Anderson & Sheppard and others?

  5. I am appalled that Anderson Sheppard would let Craig leave their atelier looking like that! IMHO he still gives off the stuffed sausage look that TF gave him previously especially the tight biceps. The seemingly matched tie/pocket square in the photos makes me cringe even if they’re not. Waist suppression also seems too fitted distracting from what should be an elegant drape . Black shoes!big mistake for such a beautiful cloth color. Love the guy as Bond but he’s got a long way to go sartorially.

    • I am not even being facetious when I say I can no longer remember the last time I saw Craig wear a well fitting suit.

  6. Nice analysis, Matt, thanks.
    As nice as the colour & fabric might be or as prestigious the tailor, we still have a problem. Or a series of them. I watched the ceremony, without sound, while kept waiting on a phone call, wich prompted my focus on how Craig repeatedly tried to adjust the fit of his jacket, or lack thereof. I guess he must have shared some of our (empathetic) as well as the tailor’s embarrassment at such a missed opportunity. I sincerely felt bad for him.
    ‘Stuffed sausage look’ is an appropriate expression ! I also concur with the black shoes’ suboptimal choice. Chestnut would have been a better combination. Patch pockets are not nice looking per se (IMO) but their undesirable status is accentuated by the clash they exert on a double-breasted jacket. Agreed on the clour being too light for an evening event. Again, few Bond actors were entirely clothes-conscious, and Craig did not join this list.
    Quoting M in TMWTGG : “Humiliated tailors….” ?

    • What’s wrong with patch pockets on a double-breasted jacket? It’s a classic combination. I personally like the black shoes. They look appropriate for an evening event, and black shoes with a light-coloured suit is a classically British and Bondian way to dress, though they’re not currently fashionable.

    • I could not agree more with your analysis, it’s spot on. It proves that regardless the price and quality of the fabric if u don’t get the fit right and proportions even the highest price actor/model will not look right nor elegant.

    • I have similarly coloured suit and it only pairs well with black shoes. Brown with pale blue ends up looking very informal, whereas the black elevates a casual coloured suit.

  7. Ehhh, not really my thing honestly. I kind of missed his Casino Royale wardrobe, I think he looked his best in those suits. Also Rami Malek wearing a black suit with a buttoned up shirt and no tie a la Tom Cruise and Dustin Hoffman in Rain Man is just plain wrong.

  8. Apart from the almost matching tie and pocket square look, and the cotton fabric that doesn’t lend well to the close fit Craig likes (wool would have been a better choice), I think Craig pulls off the ensemble well. I find the double breasted suit a welcome and attractive look and the light blue colour really does make him stand out from the crowd (literally!) but not in a jarring or controversial manner like the pink velvet jacket he wore previously. I also like how the light blue colour resembles the light blue suit of Lazenby and Moore’s cool grey suit in TMWTGG. And as you point out Matt, Craig’s accessories are classic Bond. It’s also quite interesting and reassuring to see and know that Craig is really into suits and enjoys wearing them in his personal life (we’re talking Saville Row tailor Anderson and Sheppard) and shows that he does have an understanding, command and taste for class menswear (even if the fits of the suit aren’t always perfect or are too tight).

    I also think light blue works really well on Craig’s light complexion. What are your thoughts Matt on a light blue suit working well on Craig?

  9. I think the color works well for him, and going double-breasted in it was a good call. Had it been fitted properly and in tropical wool, it would have looked fantastic.

    I think tobacco or cognac shoes would have been a better choice, maybe even white bucks (yeah, not very British, but neither am I). White pocket square to channel a bit of Connery. If he went with any tie at all, it shouldn’t have been black. I don’t even know what tie I’d put on with this one.

    So much potential in this outfit, but it was wasted. Kinda like parts of the movie.

  10. Patch pockets are not my ideal, I am afraid. There is always something cheap in their appearance in general. But that is personal. I feel that it can ruin the line of a suit.
    Combining their deliberate informality to the formality of a double-breasted jacket is probably one step too far?
    Would one add a ticket pocket to a DB ? Or to a dinner jacket ? I wonder..
    As for the black shoes for the evening, you are right. Not a faux-pas per se. Blue and black is always better than brown and black.
    But since he opted for a light colour for the evening, he might as well have pushed it altogether in the same direction, with brown (even dark) shoes.

    • A double-breasted jacket is no more formal than a single-breasted. It’s just a more dandy style.

      One can certainly add a ticket pocket to a double-breasted jacket, but it doesn’t belong on a dinner jacket.

  11. Well, the military / navy origins tend to suggest that formal edge.
    As for ticket pocket on a DB, you are right, my bad. I even owned an old Daks blazer with such a pocket… I guess I must have been distracted while writing ;)
    Glad we agree on the dinner jacket’s exclusion of such an item.

    But you get my point about clashing formality / informality elements, I gather ?

    • Some militaries use single-breasted jackets. Double-breasted jackets have a long history outside the military. I get your point, but I see no clash of formal and informal elements in this outfit. It may not be to your taste, but the style of this suit is very historically informed.

      This page has a fantastic 1930s advertisement for sporty summer suits, both single-breasted and double-breasted: https://alittlebitofrest.com/2021/08/01/dressing-like-the-esquire-man/

      It’s not the only example.

      • Looks like Craig had some fun picking this out. I think deleting the top two buttons has a really nice effect of making a DB less ‘Navy commander/30s gangster’ and more casual and contemporary, and it goes with the patch pockets. I’d place the gorge a tad lower as it is almost crawling over the shoulder…. Matt, do you think adding drape to the chest sides and enlarging the upper sleeve would clean up that scrunched shoulder area? Or lower armholes?

      • I think the waist needs to be a bit larger, and the upper sleeves need to be a bit larger too. There’s already some drape in the chest. The armholes are fine; lowering them won’t help at all.

      • Thanks, Matt. One of the many good things with you is that we always get to deepen our knowledge of all things sartorial. Thanks for letting us tap into your vast pool of accumulated wisdom !
        This is an impressive blog, and amazing posters indeed. Too little time to explore completely, alas.
        Still, I cannot get accustomed to the patch pocket. I all seems too crowded. (And quoting Safin: “all I want is to make it a little ‘tidier! “)
        What would be interesting to know is what came first: the patch pocket or the ‘concealed’ ones. Any idea ?

      • Patch pockets are much simpler in design than set-in pocket, though I’ve read that pocket started out as separate back accessed through slits in a garment. That could suggest that set-in pockets came first. I personally prefer set-in pockets over patch pockets in most cases, but I think patch pockets are acceptable on sports coats and sportier suits. I wouldn’t put them on a business suit, but some people do.

  12. Interesting write up Matt.
    Like Craig I’m a pale Nordic blondie and I have a similar coloured powder blue-grey suit in mohair made-to-measure by Thick As Thieves. As for the shoe debate, I always wear my navy suede wingtip brogues with it.

    https://rodsmodblog.files.wordpress.com/2019/04/7219d374-5f26-4810-86d2-a9e0f4ae802f.jpeg?w=196&h=&zoom=2

    The red socks are certainly not Bondian but they are paired up with a similar coloured solid grenadine tie and white linen pocket square with a red edge.

    https://rodsmodblog.wordpress.com/2019/04/07/rods-greatest-hits-2/

  13. Craig’s ensemble was great here. I would change the fit on the jacket, but it could be worse. I am shocked how much comments do not like the patch pockets with a double breasted suit. I personally prefer the sit in pockets. Correct if I am wrong Matt, but was patch pockets popular for double breast suits in the 1930’s?

    Anyway, I also prefer the 6×2 over his 4×2. Other than those issues, I like this ensemble. It matches his complexion well. I also do not mind the black shoes. As Matt stated, “black shoes with a light-coloured suit is a classically British and Bondian way to dress.” I think these shoes work well with the ensemble. This outfit also kind of reminded me of Felix’s Thunderball outfit.

    https://www.bondsuits.com/felix-leiter-the-seersucker-suit/

    Honestly, I get bitter when I see these light blue suits though. I use to own a three piece suit that resembled TMWTGG suit, but I foolishly got rid of it. If I could tell my younger self some advice, it would be to not get rid of that suit!

    My best,
    Bill

  14. Sincerly..i don’t like the cloth,i don’t like the fit,i don’t like the color.
    Is a waste of good bespoke; if Craig wanted a cotton suit with a bad fit, could buy ready to wear.

    • Nothing can top this blunt comment !
      Clear, concise, to the point, and non-negotiable.
      How can one not respectfully agree with Carmelo’s point of view ?

      The seersucker, and Matt’s pertaining article is what came to my mind at first, and it is true that this being a daytime suit, brown is non only permitted, but also a visually happier complementary choice.

      I do appreciate Matt’s comment back in 2014 :

      “The black accessories may be unimaginative, but they provide a needed gravitas to his otherwise casual outfit.”

      It is true that black with blue is not offensive per se. But again, not an evening wear, hence my preference for brown shoes+belt in this case.
      However, beige or brown worn with black shoes veers more towards ‘murder’ to me.
      Still cannot ‘unsee’ that brown suits from Thunderball.

      Patch pockets may have been popular in the 1930s, but so has wing collar with black tie. It does not prevent it (still in my humble, yet sincere, opinion) from being a visual disgrace;)

  15. Interesting article Matt! It is interesting to see how Daniel Craig wears double breasted suits in his personal life but never as Bond.

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