Daniel Craig in a Double-Breasted Dinner Suit at the 79th Academy Awards

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Daniel-Craig-79th-Academy-Awards

One of Daniel Craig’s nicest pieces of tailored clothing is the dinner suit he wore at the Academy Awards in 2007 after Casino Royale. This suit is bespoke from Alfred Dunhill and designed by Martin Nicholls. If you search for photos of the suit online you’ll find some where the jacket isn’t sitting correctly on him and doesn’t appear to fit so well. But when he gets on stage with Nicole Kidman it is nigh perfect.

The dinner jacket has four buttons with one to button, and the bottom row is a little below the waist. This gives the jacket a longer lapel line, which flatter’s Craig’s shorter stature, but it’s not so low that is throws off the balance. It also has a narrow wrap like Roger Moore’s double-breasted jackets from Cyril Castle have, which bring the diagonal lapel line closer to vertical to further help his height. The peaked lapels are a little narrow but with the medium gorge height they look good. Slanted pockets also lengthen the torso, though flaps take away from the effect. Slanted pockets and pocket flaps are unusual details for a dinner jacket, and Bond only wore those in the 1970s. They don’t look bad, but straight jetted pockets would have been the ideal choice. The jacket is also detailed with four buttons on the cuffs and double vents. It is cut with a clean chest and straight, padded shoulders. The buttons are silk-covered. The trousers have a straight leg with a silk stripe down the side.

The dress shirt has a spread collar, double cuffs and very large pleats on the front, and Craig wears it with black onyx studs. He wears a black silk bow-tie and a white puffed pocket handkerchief. The shoes are black cap-toe oxfords with a chiselled toe. Though the outfit is adventurously styled, it remembers black tie tradition and has a very flattering fit. When standing next to Nicole Kidman, who is already taller than Craig without heels, the dinner jacket gives Daniel Craig the presence he needs on stage.

26 COMMENTS

  1. Responding on the Worst Suit Poll comments, Matt, you said
    “I think the Quantum of Solace suits are flattering on Craig, though I’m about to post something else that I think looks great on Craig. However, it’s not something that is perfect for Bond.”
    So I presume you don’t think this dinner suit would work for Bond. I wondered why not?

  2. One thing that I don’t understand, regardless of whether it refers to Craig or anyone else, is when there is a reference to their “shorter stature”. If all of their proportions are the same as anyone else, is their height a big deal? If two men had the exact same body type but one was 5’6″ and the other was 5’11” wouldn’t the same style look just as good on each of them?

    Having said that, I find this style of suit on Craig does indeed makes him look shorter. Like the Brioni suits from Casino Royale I think it’s a look that is a little too “block-y” for his body type. I would think that instead of emphasizing the bulk that he has, which the shoulders but especially the double-breasted nature of this suit does, he looks better in suits that emphasize how lean he is. Looking at a few pics of this so I could see it from different angles I don’t think that it does him any favours. These two pics, looking directly at him, illustrate what I mean:

    http://img.spokeo.com/public/900-600/daniel_craig_2007_02_26.jpg

    http://media.spokesman.com/photos/2008/08/08/r_45__t400.jpg?fd5af0684d698ce74dd4392bafb4f89a6dc66ee3

  3. Very nice. Craig has worn all of his black tie well, even the slightly extreme Skyfall dinner suit.

    For once, I have to disagree with TheLordFlasheart, I don’t agree that Brioni was too blocky on Craig. As Bond, Craig is quite muscular, particularly in Casino Royale. I actually prefer the Casino Royale suits to his others. But I have always thought his suits fit him well (let’s leave aside the argument over whether the 2012 look fits in the first place – Craig wears them as they are meant to be worn). You can’t really hide his shoulders so you might as well go with them. And, for all of his muscle, I don’t think he is broad enough for a really natural shoulder like Connery’s Sinclair suits.

    • “let’s leave aside the argument over whether the 2012 look fits in the first place – Craig wears them as they are meant to be worn”

      Very well said. I don’t think that any of Craig’s outfits look *bad* on him; I just find that (IMHO) there are styles that accentuate certain features better than others. I agree that the Brioni suits fit Craig they way they are supposed to in order to achieve their signature look. I find though that with each film his suits make him look a bit more trim and less bulky. Again, setting style aside, I find that the SF suits make him look leaner and taller as well as have more shape to his physique than the CR suits:

      https://www.bondsuits.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/2012-Glen-Urquhart-Suit-2.jpg

      http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t7TUDUXmnP0/TdSIAQ4q7II/AAAAAAAAApc/LGMejqtugAI/s1600/CharBlue%2BSuit.png

      …which is interesting as he looks to be in pretty much the same shape in both films. However, it’s individual taste and I can see how some people would prefer the Brioni look. In fact, one of my coworkers was just saying last week how he misses suits that “bulked you up” and hopes they come back in style soon.

      As for the double-breasted dinner suit, I think that the midsection is what makes Craig look less trim, and therefore less long and lean (or shorter, if you prefer) than a single breasted. Whether it’s the angles of the jacket being less vertical and more angled, or the cross-over adding bulk I’m not sure. Or it could even be a trick – I’m used to seeing DB suits with more cross-over so when there’s less there’s an optical illusion that there is more “gut” so the “flaps” can’t cross over so much!

    • As usual, Christian, I quite agree. I prefer the Casino Royale suits too myself, but perhaps it’s just because I love their signature look ; the fit could have been a bit more shaped.
      However, I too hardly think Craig can’t pull off a natural shoulder ! If he can’t pull it off then who can ?! I think he’s broader than Connery -which is just a statement, I don’t see it as a compliment or a criticism-, certainly due to the intense training, and he looks also more bulky because of the difference of height between him and Connery. Connery was well-shaped but also very tall, so the ‘result’ looks very proportionnate. But I am not saying that Craig is a deformed person !

  4. I keep seeing people relate to how short Craig is. He’s 5’10” hardly Warwick Davis.

    As for Brioni on Craig, I don’t see any issue with it. As was stated previously, it’s how the garment is build, it’s a signature look and Craig pulled it off well. However I do disagree with Christian that Craig could not do a natural shoulder. There is nothing about Craig’s build that directly states that he can’t do a specific shoulder line. It would be a matter of proportion and seeing how primarily the suits would be of a made to measure or bespoke variety, I hardly see this as an issue.

    Remember Craig wears Cucinelli suits and those are natural shoulder garments.

    • Good points Shaun. I may be wrong about the natural shoulder, I am just skeptical that Craig is broad enough to be imposing like Connery was but I could very well be wrong.

      And I completely agree that at 5’10” (or perhaps 5’9″), Craig is not particularly “short”.

  5. Forget about the impracticability or otherwise of double breasted suits and guns etc. If we were considering the practicalities of 007 movies we’d have left the cinema in 1964, Matt. That’s the best example of evening wear I have seen on Craig. If this is an example of Mr. Nicholls’ talents then I suggest the bling bling Mr. Ford be dispatched forthwith (preferably without parachute!) and Mr. Nicholls be instated as costume man, (now there’s a refreshing change for the better) on future Bonds. Dream on David…

      • Matt, I also agree with you about Ford’s regular style. While the suits are rediculously priced, they have the potential to look very elegant.

        As for the practicality of a DB suit given Bond’s preference for a shoulder holster, I can see both sides of that argument. The free-wheeling style makes some of the Moore and Brosnan films great fun to watch, but I see no reason why the series should adhere to such a rigid formula. I have found that the modest nods to reality during the Craig era have been refreshing.

      • Tom Ford’s usual suits are actually pretty classic looking. I’m looking at getting something similar with wide, peaked lapels.

      • Pocket flaps can be tucked in, at least. And double vents are acceptable now. I make these two points in my upcoming article for Black Lapel. I do draw the line at notch lapels and more than one button in front though.

      • I am quite conservative about black tie rules too, but I think the rules of the one-button front and of notched lapels don’t have the same importance. The first is obvious and not negociable. But even if peaked and shawl lapels are more appropriate now, and certainly look better, notched lapels were present on black tie at the beginning of XXth century, and on morning coats as well. It’s the pocket flaps that I think are the most out of place on a dinner jacket.
        Moore wore two black dinner jackets with notched lapels in the 1980’s as Bond that looked immaculate. Flapped pockets, on the other hand, really remind of a common lounge coat.
        That said, I am a fanatic of ventless coats and straight jetted pockets on dinner suits as well as lounge suits, so I guess I am rather biased about black tie.

  6. Connery was considerably less muscular than Craig. Therefore, I don’t see the argument about him not being able to wear a Sinclair suit. Craig’s muscularity needs to be toned down, if not hidden, in a suit because that is simply the correct way to dress and why the Skyfall suits were a complete joke. If the suit doesn’t fit because your arms and legs are bulging out of the material it simply looks stupid and badly dressed. I don’t care what any women may say.

    I think Craig looked beautifully dressed in Casino Royale which achiebed the right perspective and balance for his physique and I think he also pulls off this dinner jacket well with Nicole Kidman. It’s not his fault she is 6′ foot tall, something Tom Cruise could never handle. Even Connery would be under pressure next to Kidman.

    • Now, now, Steve. Words like “stupid”, “badly dressed” and even, “joke”, I hope you have your flak jacket handy because you’re straying in to dangerous territory there! You’re liable to find yourself firmly in the line of enemy fire because certain guardians of the current sartorial “status quo” have decreed that certain ideas and phrases are beyond the pale. I wish you luck, my friend…

      • In the eyes of many I’m sure that I am seen as an opinionated and prejudiced dinosaur. But surely that is a little bit what this blog is about. To qualify my remarks about fit, I would say that this has nothing to do about the overall style or prevailing fashion but simply about fit. A suit can be generous or slim in cut but it must fit. Craig’s in Skyfall simply do not fit and that is why they look a mess because they are at least one size too small in the shoulders and legs. I personally prefer a suit to be cut as slim as possible because I am large in the shoulders and legs and want the suit to tone down these excesses and look more elegant and uniform. That is what a good tailor will do for anyone. If I want to “show off” my imposing physique out of vanity, I won’t choose a suit to do so.

      • Steve, well said and yes, diversity of opinion is exactly what the blog should be about rather than attempted censorship of those opinions and phrases we don’t happen to agree with. The suit here, from what I can ascertain in the photo, fits Craig perfectly and is very flattering. In terms of styling, it has a flair which I like, although I agree that on evening wear, jetted pockets would be more traditional and fitting. It is also, somewhat reminiscent of Castle’s 1970’s suits even in terms of the flare at the end of the sleeve which Le Chiffre perceptively spotted. If Craig dressed a little more like this as Bond and had different persona I probably wouldn’t be averse to him.

  7. Well, Craig is a knockout here. He pulled it off perfectly, and even if there some details that I think are out of place on a dinner jacket, it still looks very good.
    It confirms me in the idea that Craig was very well dressed (in public life) from 2006 to about 2010. His suits were fashionable but fitted him very well, whatever the brand was.
    I quite agree with Craig’s height. He isn’t what you call a short man at all, he is of medium height, just under 6 foot tall. It’s his stature that makes him look larger and thus shorter perhaps. In that case, double breasted jackets should be avoided in theory, right, but he looks very comfortable here. The shoulders and the chest made me think of Brioni first.
    Ideally, I would have preferred large lapels (with more overlap) and straight unflapped pockets. But I like this look too. Top marks for the shirt and bowtie, they look immaculate, even if we certainly don’t see much of them. Onyx studs also look nice because only one is shown, it’s less ‘flashy’ than three or four ones worn with a single-breasted jacket in my opinion.

    Unfortunately, this picure confirms me in the idea that double breasted suits look better on men with an imposing physique -even if they look a bit heavier-, rather on tall and slim ones like Brosnan. But I am waiting for his Remington Steele’s 80’s double-breasted suit with impatience, so I could leave that wrong idea in the closet !
    About the jacket Matt, isn’t there a very subtle flare at the end of the sleeves ?
    Or is it just me ? Anyway, I think it’s quite nice.
    Thanks.

  8. All,

    I have been on vacation so I am little late to respond on some of these, so please forgive the tardiness. My comment about Craig and the natural shoulder was not meant to say that he couldn’t pull it off. What I said was some doubt that Craig is broad enough to pull off a very natural shoulder and look as imposing as he does here (or in Casino Royale) – and I think he looks quite lean around the shoulder in some of the Skyfall suits (not Pierce lean, mind you, but not as built up as here or in Casino Royale). Connery had a large, broad frame. While he wasn’t as muscular as Craig, he was 6’2″ with a 44 or 46 jacket I believe was referenced on this blog a few years ago. And in the discussion on this blog about the natural shoulder, we all discussed how imposing Connery was with a natural shoulder. So I did not mean to say or imply that Craig could not pull off a natural shoulder, just that, he is not as imposing in one, and looks better in the Brioni in my book. But I am not dogmatic on things. I could very well be wrong.

    • The Skyfall suits have a rather narrow shoulder, look at the difference with the QOS ones. That plus the fact they are almost a size too small certainly make Craig’s shoulders look narrower. I think Matt said Craig was a 50 in size, perhaps even a 52 in Casino Royale, so there’s some difference with Connery.
      That said, a simple 42R would satisfy me entirely…

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