Timothy Dalton’s first lounge suit of the series in The Living Daylights is a black and grey herringbone three-piece suit. Bond previously wears a two-piece grey herringbone suit in You Only Live Twice, but this time it’s a bit darker and heavier and more appropriate for a London office. The suit coat has a button two front, three buttons on the cuffs, double vents and flapped pockets. The shoulders are heavily padded, straight and extended beyond the natural shoulder with a roped sleeve head.
The waistcoat has six buttons down the front, with the bottom button left undone. It has two welt pockets. The trousers are classic-cut with double forward pleats and full tapered legs.
The overall cut of the suit is full and relaxed, taking after the popular Armani suits of the day, but the details of the suit are still English. The suit is ready-to-wear, which was a first for James Bond. Bond had always worn bespoke suits with a perfect fit in the past, but because of a last-minute casting there was not time to make suits for Timothy Dalton. The general look for Dalton’s suits follows Bond’s looks from the past, but the intricacies are not present in Dalton’s suits.
Dalton’s shirt is white poplin with a spread collar, a placket front and button cuffs. He ties his solid black repp tie with a four-in-hand knot. Dalton’s ties are a little sloppy in that they don’t cover the top of the collar band, but the collar itself has too much tie space, which may also be causing the problem.