Dalton’s Grey Herringbone Suit in The Living Daylights

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Timothy Dalton’s first lounge suit of the series in The Living Daylights is a black and grey herringbone three-piece suit. Bond previously wears a two-piece grey herringbone suit in You Only Live Twice, but this time it’s a bit darker and heavier and more appropriate for a London office. The suit coat has a button two front, three buttons on the cuffs, double vents and flapped pockets. The shoulders are heavily padded, straight and extended beyond the natural shoulder with a roped sleeve head.

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The waistcoat has six buttons down the front, with the bottom button left undone. It has two welt pockets. The trousers are classic-cut with double forward pleats and full tapered legs.

The overall cut of the suit is full and relaxed, taking after the popular Armani suits of the day, but the details of the suit are still English. The suit is ready-to-wear, which was a first for James Bond. Bond had always worn bespoke suits with a perfect fit in the past, but because of a last-minute casting there was not time to make suits for Timothy Dalton. The general look for Dalton’s suits follows Bond’s looks from the past, but the intricacies are not present in Dalton’s suits.

Dalton’s shirt is white poplin with a spread collar, a placket front and button cuffs. He ties his solid black repp tie with a four-in-hand knot. Dalton’s ties are a little sloppy in that they don’t cover the top of the collar band, but the collar itself has too much tie space, which may also be causing the problem.

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14 COMMENTS

  1. Not a bad ensemble. The fit is like that of the pinstripe suit from later on, but not too shabby at all. And he leaves the bottom button of the waiscoat unbuttoned! See, Dalton wasn't quite the sartorial-illiterate that he is bagged as… 🙂

    The tie here is listed as black, but on my mointor it actually looks like a very dark green… huh?

  2. It looks black on my screens, but dark green is the reason why many people prefer midnight blue dinner suits to black. That's how black suits can often look under certain lighting. But I'm not seeing any hint of that green.

  3. This was one of the better Dalton suits in my opinion. The boxy-fit of the suit is perhaps the most dated aspect, but that was the order of the day. In fact, despite being “off the pegs” this reminds me more of a Brosnan suit, and the ensemble probably would have worked all the way through the 1990’s.

    • The gorge is plainly visible in the second and third pictures in the article. It’s slightly low and slightly steep, but not like it would be in Licence to Kill. There’s a fair amount of waist suppression.

  4. I think the suit looks considerably more classic then his License To Kill suits. Interesting that there is a fair amount of waist suppression as many suits in the late 1980’s didn’t have much at all.

    • A dramatic silhouette with big shoulders and a suppressed waist, reminiscent of 1940s style, was popular in the 1980s. It was in the late 80s and 90s that waist suppression went away.

  5. Interesting as you pointed out that this is indeed the first suit in the series that is ready-to-wear which is worn by James Bond. I know in the film the two piece suits are worn with a belt but do you think the three piece suits are as well? Also, I was wondering if we see the shoes Bond wears with this outfit?

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