At the 54th Academy Awards® in 1982, Roger Moore presented James Bond series producer Albert R. “Cubby” Broccoli with the Irving G. Thalberg Memorial Award. This award is given to “creative producers, whose bodies of work reflect a consistently high quality of motion picture production”. Moore wears his black Douglas Hayward dinner suit from For Your Eyes Only as he presents the award to Broccoli, who is wearing a dinner suit most likely made by Moore’s former tailor Cyril Castle. Broccoli probably went to Castle for a dinner suit at the time Castle was making suits for Moore for the Bond films. Since Castle only worked on Live and Let Die and The Man with the Golden Gun, this dinner suit would have been made between 1972 and 1974.
Compared to Moore’s matte wool dinner suit, Broccoli’s dinner suit has a sheen that suggests it is a blend of mohair and wool. Broccoli’s single-button dinner jacket has satin silk-faced peaked lapels, satin silk-covered buttons, double vents and jetted pockets. The dinner jacket has many signs that it was made by Castle due to the similarities it shares with Moore’s suit jackets from his first two Bond films. The jacket’s shoulders are softly padded with gently roped sleeve heads. The peaked lapels are wide and cut with no belly, as Castle usually cut his peaked at that time. The cuffs are the same kissing link-button cuffs that Moore wore at the time. The front darts extend through the hip pockets to the bottom of the jacket, just as on the jackets Castle cut for Moore. The jacket has some waist suppression, but the silhouette looks different than Moore’s because of Broccoli’s girthier figure. The back of the jacket needs to be let out, and bespoke suits such as this are typically made with a large seam allowance to accommodate weight gain. Though wide lapels should recall the 1970s, wide peaked lapels on Broccoli help give breadth to his shoulders to balance the lack of a waist.
Not much of the dinner suit’s waistcoat can be seen, but it is made in the same cloth as the rest of the dinner suit. Though waistcoats for black tie should be low-cut and thus almost entirely covered by the jacket, this waistcoat is high-cut with four or five satin silk-covered buttons. Whilst it breaks from protocol, this waistcoat has satin silk shawl lapels to show that its maker is still aware of proper evening waistcoats and has purposely chosen to differ from what is traditional. Castle may have thought that a higher-cut waistcoat was more flattering on Broccoli. The dinner suit’s trousers have straight legs and a satin silk stripe down each side.
The white dress shirt has a spread collar, pleated front and double cuffs. Two square black onyx studs with a white square in the centre show on the front shirt, and the cufflinks are of a similar design to the studs. Double cuffs have the same shape as the kissing link-button cuffs on the dinner jacket. Though what Broccoli is wearing is not incorrect, Moore’s barrel-fastening cocktail cuffs from his first two Bond films are a better match with these jacket cuffs because the shapes do not compete. Broccoli’s bow tie is a black satin silk butterfly, which matches the material of the lapels. It does not, however, match the width of the wide lapels and helps bring the 1970s dinner suit into the 1980s.
Watch Broccoli receive the award at the ceremony in 1982:
A high-resoution image of Broccoli in his dinner suit can be found on a page about the 54th Academy Awards on Oscars.org.