Whilst Sean Connery always wears beautiful suits during his tenure as James Bond, he wasn’t always most appropriately dressed. For his visit to M’s office in Goldfinger, Bond makes a poor choice of clothing and dons a country suit, a mid brown and black houndstooth check. Brown isn’t a colour worn for conducting business in London, and Bond is indeed supposed to appear as a businessman working for Universal Exports. Not only is the fabric inappropriate, but the suit jacket’s hacking pockets (with flaps), ticket pocket (without a flap) and long single vent solidify this as a country suit. One thing that does bring up the formality is the odd waistcoat, in beige wool. But like the suit, the waistcoat is more of a country waistcoat than a city waistcoat.
The suit jacket has the same cut as Connery’s other Anthony Sinclair suits, with natural shoulders, roped sleeve heads, a full-cut chest and gently-nipped waist. The trousers most likely have the same double forward pleats that all of the other suit trousers have.
The shirt from Frank Foster is white with faint broken grey stripes and has a spread collar, front placket and double cuffs. The tie is a dark brown silk knit in a warmer tone than the cooler brown suit. The knitted tie is appropriate for the sporty country look of the suit, though a grenadine tie like Connery wears in his previous two Bond films would have been better to dress up the suit for an important office meeting. The tie is made in a Windsor knot in M’s office, while it is made in a four-in-hand knot in Moneypenny’s office.
For the only time in the series, Connery folds his white linen pocket square into a point. Bond picks up his brown trilby off the rack as he leaves the office to top things off. Make what you will of this ensemble.
The actual reason why Bond wears a country suit to the office is because most of the suits in Goldfinger were originally from the film Woman of Straw, which takes place in the country. This waistcoat is also used in Woman of Straw, but Connery wears it with the famous hacking jacket.