The fit of Daniel Craig’s suits in Spectre saw a slight improvement over the fit of his suits in Skyfall, but they still needed to be corrected in many areas. I’ve had a lot to say over the past four years about the poor fit of Daniel Craig’s suits, and now I’m finally putting my words into something you can see.
I started with a screen capture from Spectre of Daniel Craig in his blue sharkskin suit standing naturally with his arms at his sides. This is how Daniel Craig would have stood when his suits were fitted, and in this pose a suit should look its best. We can’t expect a suit to always look perfect, but the fit of Craig’s suit is far from acceptable. Good tailoring must have clean lines. So I smoothed out the suit’s wrinkles and added fullness wherever a tailor should have. On the left below is how Daniel Craig’s blue suit fit in Spectre, and on the right below is what the suit should fit like:
The corrected suit is slightly larger everywhere, but it is not loose. Now the suit follows and hugs Craig’s body—rather than fights against his body—to make the most of his muscular physique. This is only a change of the suit’s fit, not of the suit’s style since there’s little wrong with the suit’s style. The following are the suit’s problems and the changes were made to the suit jacket:
- Craig’s shoulders are too narrow and do not allow the sleeves to. I widened shoulders so the top of the sleeve can drape smoothly over Craig’s deltoids.
- The chest is too tight and is bows open. The hips are also too tight and pull open. I added a lot of fullness to the chest and a little fullness to the waist and hips so the jacket follows the shape of Craig’s body rather than fights against it.
- The jacket is slightly too short and does not fully cover Craig’s bum as it should, so I lengthened the jacket about half an inch. The jackets in Spectre already do a better job at this than the jackets in Skyfall do.
- The pitch of sleeves is off and the arms are too narrow, which puts a strain on the sleeves and does not give Bond the full range of motion that he needs. I corrected the sleeve pitch and widened the arms.
- The left sleeve is too short and does not show shirt cuff, which is necessary to give visual balance to the jacket and protect the ends of the jacket’s sleeves. I shortened the left sleeve a quarter of an inch.
The following are the fit problems with the trousers and the changes that were made:
- The rise is too short. I lengthened the rise over two inches for a seamless flow from the jacket to the trousers without the unsightly triangle of white shirt that breaks up the body.
- The thighs are too narrow and do not allow the legs to move without putting unneeded stress on the trousers. I widened the thighs to give the trousers a clean drape.
- Though the bottom of the trousers is not visible in the shot, the legs need to be lengthen to sit on top of the shoe and not float above the shoe. This would give Daniel Craig the most perceived height.
The end result is something along the lines of the suits Daniel Craig wears in Quantum of Solace. Not only does Craig look more elegant in the corrected suit, but with fullness in the right places he looks better built and more imposing. A too-small suit only makes Craig look diminutive in comparison to how he could look.
See the transformation right before your eyes:
While I’m fixing Daniel Craig’s suit, I thought I’d fix his shirt as well. His warm complexion looks better in a light blue shirt than it does in a white shirt. The warm tint over Spectre makes the white shirt look a little off-white, which is more flattering to Craig than the pure white that the shirt truly is, but blue is even better on Craig because it brings out his blue eyes. The blue shirt with a blue suit is a classic Bond look from the Connery days. The lower contrast of the outfit with a blue shirt also works better with Craig’s light, low-contrast complexion. A wider collar is also more flattering to Craig’s angular jawline whilst also giving the outfit a more British look. On the right below is how Craig would look in his properly-tailored blue suit with a blue shirt with a wider collar:
This is how I would dress James Bond today. These small changes make a huge difference.