For this entry we will take a look at the trousers that made up all of Sean Connery’s Anthony Sinclair suits from Dr. No to You Only Live Twice. These trousers all have double forward pleats, the kind that open towards the fly. These are typical of English bespoke suits as opposed to the reverse pleats most people are accustomed to these days, which open towards the pockets. The pleats aren’t seen when the jacket is buttoned and serve to make the trousers more comfortable and drape better. The trousers have a long rise and sit at Connery’s natural waist. Suit trousers that sit at the waist rather than the hips help create a more unified looks. The suit jacket should flow into the trousers, and there should never be a gap showing shirt or tie between the jacket button and the top of the trousers. The legs are tapered down to the narrow bottom for a military-like appearance and are finished at the bottom with turn-ups (cuffs) to weigh the trousers down and keep them looking neat.
Connery never wears a belt with his suits, as that would break the flow from the top to bottom of the suit. But he doesn’t wear braces (suspenders) either. Instead his trousers featured something known as “Daks tops,” invented by Simpsons of Piccadilly. With Daks tops the waist is adjusted by tabs on each side that button, and the tabs are connected to an elastic band that runs through a tunnel across to the back of the waist. With these tabs the waist can fit very precisely, and the elastic allows adjustment throughout the day as the waist expands and contracts. Most button side-adjusters have only two buttons on each side, but Connery’s trousers have three. He also uses one of the buttons on the left side of the trousers to secure his shoulder holster. The waistband is closed at the front with an extended tab that hooks in rather than buttons. An extended waistband keeps the front of the trousers straight and the absence of a button on the front looks cleaner.
The trousers have on-seam side pockets and one rear button-through pocket on the right. The rear pocket would be placed on the left for those left-handed, and thus most ready-to-wear trousers have rear pockets on both sides. The trousers pictured above and below are both from a grey glen plaid suit worn in Dr. No.
Read more about Sean Connery’s suit trousers in a comparison between the suit trousers in Dr. No and From Russia with Love.