Connery’s Dark Grey Flannel Suit in Diamonds Are Forever

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In Diamonds Are Forever Bond wears a winter staple, the dark grey woollen flannel suit. Woolen flannel is very warm and typically very heavy, though despite the weight it’s not very durable due to the fuzzy nap. Woolen flannel is quite a versatile suit cloth, and it is just as appropriate in the office as it is in the country, even in city colours. The suit is tailored by Anthony Sinclair and cut in the same style as the rest of the suits in the film, with a natural shoulder and roped sleeve heads, a clean chest and a nipped waist.

The fit isn’t as good as some of Sinclair’s other suits, probably because Connery gained weight after the final fitting. This suit coat is cut with a low button two front, which is flattering to Connery’s heavier figure, though the coat pulls at the button. The coat has deep double vents, flapped hacking pockets with a ticket pocket and four-button cuffs. The claret lining can be seen underneath the vents. Now that this is the 1970s the lapels are wider than Connery’s lapels were in the 1960s. What looks more dated, however, are the wider pocket flaps. While not much of the suit trousers are seen they probably are the same darted front cut as the rest seen in the film.

Bond’s cream cotton poplin Turnbull & Asser shirt has a spread collar and two-button turnback cuffs. The tie is amethyst-coloured grenadine silk from Turnbull & Asser, tied in a Windsor knot. We don’t see the shoes he wears with this suit, but they are most likely the black cap-toe oxfords or black derby brogues that he wears on other occasions in the film.

 

9 COMMENTS

  1. Apart from the jacket pulling on account of Connery’s girth in the movie (I agree with previous comments to the effect that he looked far better in Never Say Never Again and I do think that his suits also seemed to pull a bit in You Only Live Twice) I like this outfit. I also find the tie attractive. It’s an unusual colour and a change from Connery’s black and navy staples (but not such a departure as the dreaded pink one later in the movie!). The shirt looks white in the first two photos but more a cream/ecru colour in the lower one. Also, are the jackets of Tom Ford’s current suits not cut in a style reminiscent of this, especially the pocket flaps you mention?

    As you say, Matt, the lower button stance enhances what is an imperfect situation. So many heavy set people nowadays wear high button suits and they look like Humpty Dumpty!

  2. Great post, Matt, as always. I would be very interested to get my hands on a smilar tie. The amethyst colour is very appealing indeed. I wonder is Sam Hober could elaborate such a tie.
     
    On another topic, I was wondering if you could analyze the suit Roger Moore wears in the pre-opening of Octopussy, where the tweed jacket converts into a military jacket. That is quite a benchmark in sartorial prowess, I imagine.
     
    Happy New Year and thanks again for your great work
     
    Stan
     

  3. Not bad, definitely one of the best suits in Diamonds, but this isn’t the pinnacle of Connery or Sinclair either. I do like it, but it’s just not my favourite. The fit is what bothers me about it. I don’t really like Diamonds Are Forever as a film, but it’s hard to say anything too harsh about a grey flannel suit!

  4. Despite the 70’s style and the fit of the suit jacket, it’s quite ok. If I had to choose one suit from the movie, it would be the grey one from the scenes in Amsterdam and Las Vegas. Add a pocket square and it would have been fine.

    Did Connery use a pocket square at all in this film? If I remember correctly he didn’t. The folded white linen pocket square always looked good for the pefect finishing touch.

    But most importantly, Connery’s performance as Bond in Diamonds Are Forever was great regardless his age and weight.

  5. Yes, he was definitely in better shape in NSNA. You’ll especially notice his face is a little wider here despite being a decade previous to that film.

    It would seem, left to his own devices, Connery prefers the Windsor knot. It’s seen in Dr. No, this film, and the aforementioned NSNA. I think I’ve seen him use it in a few other films where his character wears suits, but correct me if I’m wrong. While not a terrible choice on his physique (and far from the monsters worn by modern Wall Street yuppies or football players), I feel a half-Windsor or Prince Albert would have looked much better and more Bond-like.

  6. I’m also looking forward to Matt covering the Octopussy sports coat/military jacket.

    Incidentally, Moore did something similar a decade earlier in Live and Let Die when a dark colour coat (with safari style features) which he had been wearing whilst handgliding is turned inside out to reveal, hey presto, the jacket of a beige suit.

  7. He looks like a millionaire:) Despite the added weight, I thought he looked better here than the PREVIOUS “You Only Live Twice”. I think the taller hair balanced his rounder face…he still looked solidly built. He turned in a fairly energetic performance, and despite black Tuxedo scene aside I don’t really notice his weight gain…for as much has been written about it.

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