Collars Royale: Turnbull & Asser

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In a new graphic series called “Collars Royale”, I break down the styles of the shirts James Bond wears, starting with the first shirt brand that Bond wears, Turnbull & Asser. I break down the collars, cuffs and fancy fronts of the Turnbull & Asser shirts that appear in ten Bond films, including Never Say Never Again, worn by Sean Connery, Pierce Brosnan and Daniel Craig. The collars are mostly very similar, but I have illustrated to subtle differences between the collars.

Here is the first installment of “Collars Royale”:

40 COMMENTS

  1. I felt the Brioni collars for Brosnan in DAD had a bit of a wider spread than the T&A ones he wore in prior movies. Also the tie space was narrower.

  2. I wish turnbull and asser would make the off the peg process for the bond fan easy. We are always having to scavenger hunt for the authentic item. Where the premium price exists so should the service, afterall I don’t expect ross or tj Maxx to help me follow the steps of 007.

  3. Say the cutter screwed up and the collar does not reach that far, could the shirt be used for anything else? Say a v neck sweater, or should they just be a donation ?

  4. The same collar that you use for a lounge suit, could you tell a cutter to use that exact same collar when making a dress shirt for an evening suit? Or is it like the guy trying to make a suit into an evening suit by simply wearing a bowtie?

  5. Is the tie space always a standard 1cm? Does that 1cm work for bowties as well?
    is a turnback cuff appropriate for blacktie?

  6. To quote Roger Moore , his favorite Shirtmakers were :
    Frank Foster
    Eton Shirts
    Washington Tremlett
    And ” The Odd Turnbull and Asser “.
    I wonder if any of his Turnbull and Asser shirts actually got used in a Bond Film.
    Also , Matt , l noticed that in the Shirtings list , you didn’t mention the ecru silk worn in ” From Russia with Love ” or the pink linen worn in ” You only live twice “

  7. Wonderful. I presume the wide high spread collar is the one worn with the lounge suits in TWINE while the high spread collar in TWINE refers to the evening shirt ?

    Matt, between all of these collars, which one do you think would be better suited to a person with a face similar to Brosnan’s in Goldeneye ?

  8. it seems in order for me to get a brosnan accurate spread collar, it seems it appears to be one step away from the straight cutaway. is this correct?

  9. Updated version of my breakdown on the T&A Brosnan collars:

    https://i.ibb.co/XC8sDyq/collars.jpg

    I think I accidentally swapped the POW and TWINE collar labels on the paper pattern on the last one. Anyways, this time everyone can just compare for themselves as I’ve included a picture of the TWINE collar laid flat.

    Matt, as a graphic designer I’m sure you are cringing hard at my patchwork. =D I hope you’ll do an expanded article on this topic at some point and really pull it all together for us (and in a more aesthetically pleasing manner).

    • Mr. TREDSTONE,
      WHEN I MAKE MY FIRST MILLION YOU AND I WILL HAVE GLASS OF BOLLINGER RD IN FRONT ON THE LOW END DEPARTMENT STORE WHERE I USED TO WORK! !!

      SUPERB!

      • Cheers! Just posting the info I wish I had known about when I started looking for all this years ago… 🙂 will periodically update as I learn more

  10. Which really brings up the question – how many Bond movies did T&A do solely, without the help of Frank Foster / Brioni?
    Also (I couldn’t hit submit without saying) congratulations on your marriage!

    • I don’t know if we can ever get an answer. For the early Connery films, T&A and Lanvin made shirts for him, according to Terence Young. Frank Foster also worked on those films, but it’s unlikely he made Connery’s shirts for the first two.

      And thank you!

  11. I need help from T&A shirt owners…
    Between their current Kent, Regent and Prince of Wales collars, which one is the tallest ?
    Also which one is the most similar to the TWINE Brosnan spread collar ?

    • The Prince of Wales collar is most similar in spread to the TWINE collar. I believe the Kent is shorter than the other two, but the Regent and Prince of Wales are about the same in height, though still on the shorter side.

      • Thank you Matt. When you say « on the shorter side », do you mean the Regent and POW collar are shorter in height than the classic T&A collar ?

  12. Ideally you’ll want to go bespoke if you’re trying to get a high banded collar in the TWINE style. The TWINE collar looks to be a modified Regent from looking at Brosnan’s shirt pattern. However, I agree with Matt that amongst the stock options (and if you’re willing to forego collar height), the POW collar is probably the closest in terms of spread. That’s the collar I used to wear when I was buying RTW/MTM at T&A in an attempt to get something resembling the TWINE collar. For the actual TWINE collar, the wider spread of the regent collar appears to take on a more distinctive flare when combined with a high band, which is what’s made it such a particular target of interest.

    These pics of the stock T&A collars might help you in making comparisons. The Kent collar is probably the farthest from what you’re seeking, imo.

    Kent:
    https://tamedia.scdn1.secure.raxcdn.com/media/catalog/customoption/images/Collar_Type_Kent.jpg

    Regent:
    https://tamedia.scdn1.secure.raxcdn.com/media/catalog/customoption/images/Collar_Type_Regent.jpg

    Prince of Wales:
    https://tamedia.scdn1.secure.raxcdn.com/media/catalog/customoption/images/Collar_Type_Prince_of_Wales.jpg

  13. Thanks tredstone. Of course bespoke would be ideal but it’s definitely out of my price range. MTM too, but I am willing to give it a shot since there’s a current offer at T&A.
    When you say that the POW collar isn’t very tall, I hope it’s as tall as the classic T&A collar though ? The latter has a 4cm height. It’s not very tall but it’s definitely a short collar either, so I would be fine with it.
    Thanks for the pics. I saw them already on their website but these drawings ate more confusing to me than anything else !
    On these pics the POW collar look almost like a point collar, and the regent and kent look indistinguishable. I wish they provided clear pictures of the collars instead of these.
    The old mtm interface they had was much more detailed than their current one.
    I don’t know what to think between Matt’s advice to go for the POW and yours to go for the Regent. I will probably send a mail to T&A, I hope they can provide an accurate answer !
    Their picture of the POW collar definitely doesn’t look one bit like a TWINE collar…
    I am going crazy with this stuff !

    • Sorry, maybe I was a bit muddled with my reply. Like Matt, I would recommend the POW if you are planning to go the made-to-measure route because the spread shape looks closest to the TWINE one.

      The actual bespoke TWINE collar however is (fundamentally) a Regents, but when with some slight tweaks, and combined with the high collar takes on a distinctive shape and curl that sort of falls in between the stock regents and the stock POW (in which case you should get the stock POW because it’s closer).

      The thing to note with the Kent collar is that the area where it fastens in the front sits lower on the neck compared to the Regent. That’s pretty well depicted in that cartoon picture and accurate with my own experience of wearing the Kent. In that regard, it is probably the furthest removed from the tall style of the TWINE collar.

      Hope that helps.

    • Le Chiffre, I tried to go through my closet to find my old T&A shirts with the different collar types, but sadly they’ve been replaced over the years with just the bespoke ones. I did manage to find some old pics that might be a helpful comparison, and you can get a sense how they look on the same person. On the left is me with the Kent collar, the middle the POW, and the right is the bespoke TWINE.

      https://imgur.com/fF6xZLn

      Please excuse the hideous tie in the middle =D, I bought it for its passing resemblance to the TND tie and boy was that a mistake. As you can see, the Kent collar sits particularly low in the front, the POW has a very similar spread angle as the TWINE, but the TWINE collar itself has that beautiful arching curve that’s hard to replicate (and I think part of why people are so interested in it).

      • Tredstone, thanks a lot for going into such trouble to help me. It’s really great to find such passionate people on this blog !
        The Pow collar look better than I thought, it’s definitely a medium spread collar to me, even if it looks quite different on their website. I think I will order this one !
        That tie of yours in the middle is definitely tacky although if it was slimmer in width it could work better I think. A loud pattern on a wide tie is always eye-catching.
        On a side note your bespoke collar look amazing ! Great curve !
        Even your Kent collar looks fine actually. I guess if you don’t have a very long neck, high banded collars are not a necessity.

      • No problem, glad to help! One bit of advice, which you’re probably already well aware of, is to make sure the collar size for the POW shirt you choose is absolutely correct. I recently visited T&A with an unwashed, new bespoke shirt with the TWINE collar and the gent there thought I was wearing a Kent, since without the proper shrinkage the collar was a bit loose, sat low on the front and also resulted in a wider spread. It was fine after a few washes of course, but that’s just to say you don’t want a loose POW collar…

    • If you are trying to get something like the twine collar from off the peg

      “DONT DO IT”
      you are going to regret it. Although the spread might be similar the height of the collar band is what makes that collar the TWINE collar.
      I purchased the regent shirts during their sale
      And my suit drowned out the collar. Which makes look as if you are 12 and you borrowed the suit.

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