In Die Another Day, Pierce Brosnan briefly wears a charcoal suit of worsted flannel or a serge woven of worsted and woollen yarns. Worsted flannel is woven in a basic four-harness twill weave with 45-degree wales on both sides and has a raised nap on top. Compared to the more traditional woollen flannel, worsted flannel is woven with combed worsted yarns and milled to have a nap instead of woollen flannel’s carded fibres. Worsted flannel is much harder wearing than woollen flannel, making it better-suited for James Bond’s rough lifestyle.
Serge is woven the same way as worsted flannel and is woven of either all worsted yarns or of a worsted warp and a woollen weft. If this is a serge suit it would be of the latter variety. Such serge is not milled but has a slight nap due to being woven with a fuzzy woollen weft, so it is similar to worsted flannel but is stronger and has more pronounced ribs. A charcoal suit of either worsted flannel or serge is versatile in a temperate climate in the cooler half of the year and slightly beyond.
The style of the suit is Pierce Brosnan’s typical Brioni button three suit with straight shoulders and roped sleeve heads.
Brosnan wears the suit with a white Brioni shirt that has a cutaway collar, double cuffs and a front placket. His mid-blue tie has a tiny pebbled or honeycomb pattern, similar to grenadine garza fina silk. But the tie’s texture is probably woven with floats instead. It’s tied in a four-in-hand knot. Brosnan enters the scene wearing an overcoat and scarf, which I will look at in more detail later.