One of the most popular suits during Pierce Brosnan’s Bond tenure is the charcoal worsted serge suit from Brioni he wears in the beginning of The World is Not Enough in Bilbao. From a photo in the Christie’s 50 Years of James Bond The Auction catalogue, it looks like the cloth is made up of marled grey, navy and brown yarns that come together to appear as a balanced charcoal, though it could just be an effect from the lighting. This film has the most suits of any of Brosnan’s Bond films as well as some of the best.
This suit jacket is cut full through the body with straight shoulders, a three-button front and double vents. It has straight, flapped hip pockets and four-button cuffs. The trousers have a darted front, quarter-top pockets and turn-ups and are worn with a belt.
Bond’s shirt is a Turnbull & Asser “Turnbuline” in blue royal oxford. It has a spread collar, placket front and double cuffs. The tie is also from Turnbull & Asser, in a dark blue and light brown large zig-zag pattern that brings out the colours in the suit. Bond ties it in a four-in-hand knot, though it being a very thick tie makes a wider knot. Bond’s shoes are black Church’s monk shoes, and Bond wears a matching black belt. Both have silver-toned buckles.
When meeting with bankers, Bond wears Calvin Klein 718F glasses that act as a detonator.