David Marlborough, a reader of The Suits of James Bond, kindly photographed his navy worsted flannel Douglas Hayward suit to be featured here. Douglas Hayward cut Roger Moore’s suits for his three James Bond films in the 1980s (For Your Eyes Only, Octopussy and A View to a Kill), and Mr Marlborough’s suit from 2 November 1981 is very similar to what Roger Moore wears in those films. These photos give us a closer look at the details of the suits Roger Moore wears. Mr Marlborough’s suit is a medium weight worsted flannel two-piece suit, which would make this suit most similar to the mid-grey lightweight flannel suit that Moore wears at the Minister of Defence’s office in For Your Eyes Only. Though the suit fits Mr Marlborough very well, Hayward did not cut it for him.
The suit jacket has a very soft construction for an English jacket. The jacket’s shoulders are soft with only a very thin layer of wadding, and the front has a soft canvas. It’s the opposite of the typical stiff military or equestrian cut that tailors in Savile Row on the other side of Mayfair make. It has a similarly trim cut, but it does away with the stiffness and has a gentler silhouette. The jacket has a clean cut through the chest and is closely, but gently, shaped at the waist.
Hayward not only removed the stiffness and stuffiness from English tailoring, but also from the atmosphere of his tailor’s shop. James Sherwood’s book Bespoke: The Men’s Style of Savile Row has a quote from Douglas Hayward about his shop: “No stags’ heads coming through the walls and no pictures of the Queen Mum. It’s relaxed and nice and easy.”
A 1967 quote from The Telegraph that Sherwood also included in his book states, “[Hayward] was calling them [his customers] by their Christian names when they were still calling him Mr Hayward.”
Though the jacket’s soft shoulders differentiate it from the typical English silhouette, it still has English flair due to the roped sleeve heads and a flared skirt. The skirt flare is emphasised in the rear by double vents that are angled outwards. Flared double vents make the waist appear smaller by drawing the lines of the jacket inward at the waist, but they also provide additional overlap at the bottom of the vents to keep them from gaping.
Hayward also differentiated his suit jackets from other Mayfair tailors’ jackets by cutting a lower button stance. The lower button stance makes the chest look stronger without cutting a fuller chest, but it also gives the suit a more relaxed look that reflected both the soft shoulders as well as Hayward’s personality. The top of the two buttons on the front is only about an inch and a half above the top of the hip pockets, whilst on most suit jackets the bottom button (on button two or button three jackets) is either in line with the top of the hip pockets or not any lower than bottom of the pocket flaps.
Like all of the suit jackets Hayward made for Roger Moore in For Your Eyes Only and Octopussy, Mr Marlborough’s jacket is detailed with the same flared double vents, three buttons on the cuffs and straight hip pockets with flaps. The buttons are black horn with a large lip and a recessed dome for the button’s four holes. The collar, lapels and pocket flaps have very subtle pick stitching. The breast pocket welt is cut on the bias—the twill wales are straight up-and-down—and the welt curves up slightly towards the sleeve.
Mr Marlborough’s suit jacket differs from Moore’s usual Hayward jackets in two areas: the shoulders and the gorge. Mr Marlborough’s shoulders—though constructed the same as Moore’s—are narrower in width, and thus the sleeves sit higher on Mr Marlborough’s shoulders. The suit’s original owner may have had narrower shoulders than Mr Marlborough has.
Also on Mr Marlborough’s suit jacket, the gorge, the seam where the collar is stitched to the lapels, is not straight as it is on most Moore’s jackets in For Your Eyes Only and Octopussy. However, the lapels are actually very similar to the lapels on Moore’s ivory dinner jacket and tan suit in A View to a Kill. Like on these two jackets, the gorge on Mr Marlborough’s jacket has a steeper angle, a gently curve and a lower notch.
The suit trousers are mostly similar to what Roger Moore wears in For Your Eyes Only, as seen on the mid-grey flannel suit. The trousers have a straight leg and front frogmouth pockets. The frogmouth pocket design on Mr Marlborough’s suit trousers, however, is a little different from Moore’s. Mr Marlborough’s frogmouth pockets angle down at a shallow angle whilst Moore’s pockets have a slightly steeper angle. The front of Moore’ pockets also start closer to the waistband. Moore’s trousers appear that they may have a dart that continues down from the front edge of the frogmouth pockets, which is not present on Mr Marlborough’s trousers. The top of the pocket is hand stitched.
The biggest difference between these trousers and Moore’s is that these trousers have side adjusters instead of belt loops. The “DAKS top” style side adjusters have a pointed tab with two buttons on each side.
The back of the trousers have two button-through, single-jetted pockets. There are two darts on either side of the back, with the inner dart ending at the top of the pocket and the outer dart ending a quarter inch below the pocket. The buttons on the trousers are grey plastic rather than the black horn found on the jacket.