Breaking Down a Douglas Hayward Suit

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Douglas-Hayward-Suit-Jacket-FrontDavid Marlborough, a reader of The Suits of James Bond, kindly photographed his navy worsted flannel Douglas Hayward suit to be featured here. Douglas Hayward cut Roger Moore’s suits for his three James Bond films in the 1980s (For Your Eyes Only, Octopussy and A View to a Kill), and David’s suit from 2 November 1981 is very similar to what Roger Moore wears in those films. These photos give us a closer look at the details of the suits Roger Moore wears. David’s suit is a medium weight worsted flannel two-piece suit, which would make this suit most similar to the mid-grey lightweight flannel suit that Moore wears at the Minister of Defence’s office in For Your Eyes Only. Though the suit fits David very well, Hayward did not cut it for him.

The suit jacket has a very soft construction for an English jacket. The jacket’s shoulders are soft with only a very thin layer of wadding, and the front has a soft canvas. It’s the opposite of the typical stiff military or equestrian cut that tailors in Savile Row on the other side of Mayfair make. It has a similarly trim cut, but it does away with the stiffness and has a gentler silhouette. The jacket has a clean cut through the chest and is closely, but gently, shaped at the waist.

Douglas-Hayward-Suit-Jacket-ShouldersHayward not only removed the stiffness and stuffiness from English tailoring, but also from the atmosphere of his tailor’s shop. James Sherwood’s book Bespoke: The Men’s Style of Savile Row has a quote from Douglas Hayward about his shop: “No stags’ heads coming through the walls and no pictures of the Queen Mum. It’s relaxed and nice and easy.”

A 1967 quote from The Telegraph that Sherwood also included in his book states, “He [Hayward] was calling them [his customers] by their Christian names when they were still calling him Mr Hayward.”

Though the jacket’s soft shoulders differentiate it from the typical English silhouette, it still has English flair due to the roped sleeve heads and a flared skirt. The skirt flare is emphasised in the rear by double vents that are angled outwards. Flared double vents make the waist appear smaller by drawing the lines of the jacket inward at the waist, but they also provide additional overlap at the bottom of the vents to keep them from gaping.

Douglas-Hayward-Suit-Jacket-RearHayward also differentiated his suit jackets from other Mayfair tailors’ jackets by cutting a lower button stance. The lower button stance makes the chest look stronger without cutting a fuller chest, but it also gives the suit a more relaxed look that reflected both the soft shoulders as well as Hayward’s personality. The top of the two buttons on the front is only about an inch and a half above the top of the hip pockets, whilst on most suit jackets the bottom button (on button two or button three jackets) is either in line with the top of the hip pockets or not any lower than bottom of the pocket flaps.

Like all of the suit jackets Hayward made for Roger Moore in For Your Eyes Only and Octopussy, David’s jacket is detailed with the same flared double vents, three buttons on the cuffs and straight hip pockets with flaps. The buttons are black horn with a large lip and a recessed dome for the button’s four holes. The collar, lapels and pocket flaps have very subtle pick stitching. The breast pocket welt is cut on the bias—the twill wales are straight up-and-down—and the welt curves up slightly towards the sleeve.

Douglas-Hayward-Suit-LabelDavid’s suit jacket differs from Moore’s usual Hayward jackets in two areas: the shoulders and the gorge. David’s shoulders—though constructed the same as Moore’s—are narrower in width, and thus the sleeves sit higher on David’s shoulders. The suit’s original owner may have had narrower shoulders than David has.

Also on David’s suit jacket, the gorge, the seam where the collar is stitched to the lapels, is not straight as it is on most Moore’s jackets in For Your Eyes Only and Octopussy. However, the lapels are actually very similar to the lapels on Moore’s ivory dinner jacket and tan suit in A View to a Kill. Like on these two jackets, the gorge on David’s jacket has a steeper angle, a gently curve and a lower notch.

Douglas-Hayward-Suit-TrousersThe suit trousers are mostly similar to what Roger Moore wears in For Your Eyes Only, as seen on the mid-grey flannel suit. The trousers have a straight leg and front frogmouth pockets. The frogmouth pocket design on David’s suit trousers, however, is a little different from Moore’s. David’s frogmouth pockets angle down at a shallow angle whilst Moore’s pockets have a slightly steeper angle. The front of Moore’ pockets also start closer to the waistband. Moore’s trousers appear that they may have a dart that continues down from the front edge of the frogmouth pockets, which is not present on David’s trousers. The top of the pocket is hand stitched.

Douglas-Hayward-Suit-Trousers-Front

The biggest difference between these trousers and Moore’s is that these trousers have side adjusters instead of belt loops. The “DAKS top” style side adjusters have a pointed tab with two buttons on each side.

The back of the trousers have two button-through, single-jetted pockets. There are two darts on either side of the back, with the inner dart ending at the top of the pocket and the outer dart ending a quarter inch below the pocket. The buttons on the trousers are grey plastic rather than the black horn found on the jacket.

Douglas-Hayward-Suit-Trousers-Rear

22 COMMENTS

  1. Extremely elegant. Looks good on a 25 year old or a 55 year old. Timeless style. Do you not think that the coat is very similar to the style of Anthony Sinclair?

  2. I was wondering why the jacket looked large on him and now I see that he is not the original owner. It will be interesting to see the fit after it’s been tailored.

    If the suit is from 1981 I assume that the quality of the fabric used must be quite high for it to look so fantastic after so many years (I would assume that the original owner would have taken care of a custom made suit, but 34 years is 34 years). Care to offer any comments on the suiting itself?

    • I think the jacket fits David quite well, and I believe he did have it altered to him. And the shoulders are actually a bit small. I’ll let David comment on the suiting.

    • Matt,in this Hayward coat the lower button is so low that is almost on genitals.
      Abolishing the last button and leaving only the first the effect would be more clean and proportionate.
      Is a matter of taste,of course.

  3. On the classic side 80s (especially early 80s,until 1985,or so) were a great period!
    Bespoke,of course was classic and timeless,but also ready to wear was good and clean before of the rise of the Armani and Armanesque crap (i never will understand the reason of the success of Armani and his silhouette in countries as United States..in Italy almost none man dressed Armani).
    The only problems with 80s were the low button stance and the relatively low gorge.
    But generally these problems not concerned bespoke.

    The Douglas Hayward Suit have a good cut,the silhouette is nothing of extraordinary of course; Cyril Castle, Dimi Major and Anthony Sinclair were incomparably better, but at least is not Angelo-the 70s swinger- of Rome.
    Is incredible that Sir Roger was not able to order a pair of classic trousers with one or two pleats and side pockets.

  4. David, thank you for sharing this with us. You certainly are lucky !

    The suit jacket’s cloth and cut is really beautiful and timeless. I am just not a fan of soft shoulders, but that’s personal taste.
    Since you are a Moore fan, I presume your shirt is from Frank Foster ? The collar doesn’t look like the typical T&A one.

  5. That is, indeed, a beautiful suit. I have one question/quibble, however. Does anyone else find that frogmouth trousers call to mind love-in, peace-out hippies circa 1970, doing their Haight-Ashbury thing? Could be plain ignorance on my part, but would rather wear my Sears Toughskin jeans than trousers with frogmouth pockets. (Forgive me, Mr. Marlborough, I would make an exception, if I found a suit like yours!)

    • They took off in popularity in the 1960s and had little to do with hippies. A number of pairs of Sean Connery’s casual trousers in his Bond films had them. Hayward also made most of his suits in the 1960s with them, and he certainly wasn’t making suits for hippies. I’m actually surprised that frogmouth pockets aren’t more popular now. Since men are wearing their suit trousers lower to reflect that they’re also wearing their jeans lower, frogmouth pockets have more in common with the pockets on jeans than side pockets have.

  6. David,

    Very nice suit. Thank you for taking the time to take these pictures. My personal preference is for a bit more structured jacket but the roped natural shoulders on your suit looks great.
    I think the pants are particularly interesting. I prefer frogmouth pockets for all my trousers. And the last pic is probably the clearest picture of the DAKS top style adjusters I’ve ever seen. I’ll probably use it as a reference for the next time I go to my tailor.

  7. Steve, thank you. Matt would be better qualified to draw similarities between a Hayward and Sinclair suit than I would.
    Carmelo, I agree about the low gorge which came to prominence in the 1980’s, quite ugly, but I wouldn’t see a low button stance as problematic at all. Coupled with a high gorge as Hayward’s signature style, it produces a beautiful flow and displays a nice amount if shirt and tie. You say that “it’s incredible that Sir a Roger was not able to order a pair of classic trousers with one or two pleats and side pockets”. I assume this was because it was a look he didn’t care for and I agree. Why do you feel pleated trousers are superior to those with a clean, flat front? I’m curious.
    Le Chiffre, actually this particular shirt is not a Foster although the majority of mine (surprisingly ) are. I had a couple made by Henrajani, whose work Matt featured in a post some time ago, and this is one of these. The style overall is very close to Foster’s and I requested the same details.
    Walter V., I like the frogmouth pockets and I find them preferable to the side variety. Plain front trousers are, for me, preferable to fussy pleats which I don’t see the point of. Frogmouth pockets contribute to the streamlined look but no front pockets at all, just the small hidden cash pocket below the belt line is my ideal and what I get made on my bespoke suits.

    Finally, I was very flattered that Matt considered me for this post.

    • “Carmelo, I agree about the low gorge which came to prominence in the 1980’s, quite ugly, but I wouldn’t see a low button stance as problematic at all”.

      Well i think that a low buttons stance in a two buttons have little sense.
      Better the one button model then (in Huntsman’s style).
      Is more proportionate and clean.

      • Huntsman doesn’t actually put their button very low. I honestly see little difference between one button and two buttons. A one-button jacket is cleaner in any case, but I don’t feel that the second button of two buttons upsets the balance no matter the button stance.

  8. “Why do you feel pleated trousers are superior to those with a clean, flat front? I’m curious”.

    Not are “superior”,but just more appropiate.
    Frog mouth trousers are great as casual trousers,with sweaters and barracuda jackets,but a bit odd with coat and tie.
    Pleats give more free and comfort,and if well cut are not baggy (especially reverse pleats).
    If one want a more clean apparence the one-reverse pleat model is perfect.
    Moreover pleats are a classic of the British style.

  9. David,

    Thank you for sharing your beautiful Hayward suit. It looks terrific, the fit looks fine, and I for one like the lower button stance with the higher gorge.

    Great write-up Matt.

    And this seems like something the literary Bond would have worn, with its softer construction and his late Fleming-era light touch of anti-establishment.

  10. Christian, thanks for the thumbs up! Carmelo, what’s “appropriate” is surely subjective? Re pleats, I can’t honestly say they made me feel more sense of comfort and for a “clean” appearance (again subjective) the flat front, no pocket trouser is the “cleanest” of all. Re comfort, I can only imagine that the current ultra low rise, tight cut trouser must be very uncomfortable but I guess fashion slavery and comfort are, sometimes, unhappy bedfellows!

    • I find the problem with flat front trousers is that they crease very quickly. At least they do with me and then the overall look is somewhat spoiled when compared with the jacket. When I first saw Connery’s trousers in Dr No, I thought they looked ridiculous with the high rise and double pleats which I thought made him look almost fat. But as Matt pointed out in an earlier comment, suit trousers are never meant to be worn without the jacket, therefore it is a little irrelevant what they look like on their own. Pleated trousers are definitely more comfortable when you sit down and I have recently taken to wearing the double reverse pleats a la Connery with which I am very happy?

      • Connery’s trousers actually have forward pleats, not reverse pleats. The popularity of reverse pleats starting in the 1980s made the names more confusing, since reverse pleats then became the standard outside of Britain.

    • David, wondered what size you were as I’ve got 2 bespoke Hayward suits in classic colours which I’d like to sell. They are completely unworn. They would fit a 40R if you are interested)

  11. “I find the problem with flat front trousers is that they crease very quickly”.

    This is true.

    ” Carmelo, what’s “appropriate” is surely subjective”?

    “Appropiate”in a suit (in my opinion).

  12. I’m not fond of the button stance, but it’s a great suit otherwise. Pretty much the same criticism I give the suits of Moore’s last three films.

  13. If any New York based reader has a Hayward suit handy, I’d love to have the opportunity to look it over and see the construction techniques used.

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