In the Bratislava winter in The Living Daylights, Timothy Dalton recalls classic James Bond suits with his medium grey flannel suit. It’s a shame we don’t see more of this suit since it’s one of the best-fitting suits in the series, from the little we see of it. It’s clearly not the same as the rest of the Benjamin Simon suits that Dalton wears throughout the film and probably is from a different brand.
What most stands out are the narrow, soft shoulders that flatter Dalton’s build. We don’t see much of the suit, but the jacket is a button two. The jacket also has wide lapels, but with a classic gorge compared to the low gorge on Licence to Kill‘s wide lapels. A publicity still reveals that this suit’s trousers have double reverse pleats instead of the classic English forward pleats that the rest of his suits have. Dalton wears the suit trousers with a black belt.
Dalton wears a white shirt with a spread collar, button cuffs and a placket front. The shirt has many hallmarks of an English shirt, such as a collar stitched 1/4 inch from the edge with a sewn-in interfacing and a narrow placket stitched 3/8 inch from the edge. His tie is solid navy and tied in a four-in-hand knot. His shoes are black cap-toe oxfords.
Over the suit, Dalton wears a dark navy cashmere, full-length overcoat. The overcoat has a 1980’s large shoulders, a low gorge and a low button stance, with three buttons. The low button stance exposes more of the chest, and the low gorge means that folding over the lapels won’t cover the neck, making the coat not as effective at keeping out the cold as it could be. But still, the coat fits well. It has a vent, flapped pockets and three buttons on the cuffs. Though the clothes are not bespoke, they are some of Dalton’s more impressive clothes of the film due to their decent fit and classic Bondian style.