Yesterday marked the official start of Bond 25, with the announcement of the cast and crew at Ian Fleming’s Jamaica home GoldenEye. The biggest news may have been the announcement of Bond 25’s costume designer, Suttirat Larlarb. Larlarb has previously worked on films by Bond 25’s original director Danny Boyle, but she has stayed with the production after Boyle’s departure and will be working with Bond 25’s director Cary Joji Fukunaga.
Unlike at the Spectre announcement, Daniel Craig wore a suit to the Bond 25 event. Thanks to the incredible @whatsdanielwearing on Instagram, the suit has been identified as from Thom Sweeney, with Craig styled by Michael Fisher. Thom Sweeney is an English tailoring brand with bespoke and ready-to-wear shops in London’s Mayfair, and they now have a shop in New York’s SoHo. It was founded by Thom Whiddett and Luke Sweeney, who both worked for Ralph Fiennes’ M’s tailor Timothy Everest before opening up the first Thom Sweeney store in 2009, so there’s already a Bond connection.
Daniel Craig himself has been a fan of Thom Sweeney for a few years. He wore Thom Sweeney while promoting Spectre, and Craig was spotted last year shopping at Thom Sweeney in New York’s SoHo. Craig is a fan of Sweeney in his personal wardrobe and was styled by a personal stylist for this event, so it does not mean that they will be present in Bond 25, even with Craig wearing their clothes at the press conference for the film. Even if they are not Bond’s tailor for Bond 25 and Tom Ford returns, we could see Sweeney in a smaller role like Brunello Cucinelli had in Spectre. The news of Bond’s tailor for Bond 25 will be coming soon.
Daniel Craig’s Thom Sweeney suit at the Bond 25 launch was in a very Bondian navy blue. The suit is a blue hopsack, which is a worsted wool basket weave that can be comfortable in a warm locale such as Jamaica. The suit jacket has two buttons, double vents and open patch hip pockets with a welt breast pocket. The jacket is tailored with soft shoulders and roped sleeve heads that recall the looks Anthony Sinclair and Douglas Hayward tailored for previous James Bonds. The suit overall has a lightweight construction. The trousers have a flat front and a mid rise.
The suit’s fit is very good, and it is especially good in the sleeves, which drape beautifully. Following the past decade’s fashion trends, the jacket is slightly short and the trousers have a lower mid rise, but the overall look is a tremendous improvement over most of the tailored clothes Daniel Craig has worn during the past decade. It is difficult to avoid the gap between the jacket’s fastening button and the top of the trousers, but it is the current fashion that Craig prefers. Though Thom Sweeney is a bespoke tailor, this is a ready-to-wear suit part of their current collection. The suit is flattering on Craig and helps to show off his healthy-looking physique better than a suit that is too tight. He is looking ready to play James Bond.
With the suit, Craig is wearing a white shirt with a cutaway collar. He’s wearing the shirt open-necked without a tie, which looks okay with the patch-pocket suit. Luke Sweeney himself said to Esquire in 2010 that his favourite outfit is a blue suit and white shirt.
What lets the outfit down are trainers. Whatsdanielwearing identified the trainers as the Converse Fear of God x Chuck 70 High in natural. Craig is always looking to make his outfits more fashion-forward, but here it looks like he is trying to be younger than he is, and it is not working. Considering the setting, I would have paired dark brown suede derbys or loafers with this suit.
Director Cary Fukunaga was the best-dressed man at the event, wearing an outfit similar to Craig’s but with elegant light brown full-strap loafers instead. Light brown shoes and no socks with a navy suit is trendy look, and it is more successful than Craig’s trainers. What primarily set Fukunaga’s outfit apart is it being a bespoke suit with a button one jacket and high-rise trousers, which would avoid the gap between the jacket’s button and trouser waist if he fastened the jacket. This is a look that recalls Connery’s blue suit in You Only Live Twice. Fukunaga’s personal fashion may signify a more stylish film than we’ve had from Bond in a long time. None of Craig’s other Bond directors showed so much personal style. Along with Craig wearing a better-fitted suit than before and a new costume designer, there is hope that Bond 25 will feature better fitted tailoring than in the last two Bond films.
Photos by Dave Allocca