The James Bond actors usually dress in a Bond-like manner for the premieres of their Bond films, but five years ago today Daniel Craig wore something more creative for the premiere of Skyfall, the highest-grossing Bond film of all time, at the Royal Albert Hall. Rather than wear a traditional dinner suit, Craig opted for an updated and creative take on the dinner jacket to wear with an otherwise traditional and Bondian black tie outfit.
Esquire reported a simple breakdown of the head-to-toe Tom Ford outfit Daniel Craig was wearing that night:
sharpened diamond jacquard shawl-collar evening jacket, evening trousers, cotton voile shirt, black grosgrain bowtie, black grosgrain cummerbund, while silk pocket square, and evening shoes by Tom Ford.
This Tom Ford dinner jacket is the same “O’Connor” model as Daniel Craig’s midnight blue dinner suit in Skyfall, just in a different fabric. The navy blue “sharpened diamond jacquard” fabric is possibly a silk and cotton blend, which other similar Tom Ford jackets have been made from. The intense sheen from the jacket would certainly suggest silk, and the textured diamond pattern woven into the fabric contributes to the sheen.
Daniel Craig wears this unusual dinner jacket in a similar manner than one would traditionally wear a smoking jacket or ivory dinner jacket; he pairs it with traditional black trousers and classic accessories. Through wearing a bold and unorthodox dinner jacket while keeping the rest of the outfit classic, the outfit stays balanced and tasteful.
The dinner jacket is mostly classically detailed, with a single button on the front, a medium-width shawl collar, a welt breast pocket, jetted hip pockets and three buttons on each cuff, with a longer last buttonhole and button worn open. The only detail that breaks from tradition is the single vent at the rear, which follows what Craig’s dinner jacket in Skyfall has. A single vent is simply too sporty for a dinner jacket.
The dinner jacket’s cut and details match those of the O’Connor dinner jacket in Skyfall. The shoulders are straight and lightly padded with gently roped sleeve heads, and the cut is close to the body with a slightly short jacket length. Even more so than the jackets that Craig wears in Skyfall, this dinner jacket is too tight. The sheen and rigidity of the fabric emphasises the poor fit more than the worsteds that Craig wears in Skyfall do. Silk and cotton do not have the same give that worsted wool has, so in this fabric a too-tight fit it is even less forgiving.
The silk trimmings on the jacket are black satin silk, which can be seen on the shawl collar, covered buttons and pocket jettings. Dinner jackets in unusual silk fabrics, like what this jacket is made of, often have lapels and other details made from the same material as the body, but this jacket is trimmed in the way a typical black or midnight blue jacket would be. While satin silk lapels are typically the shiniest part of a dinner jacket, the body of the jacket has even more shine than the satin lapel facings have. This reverses the typical look of the dinner jacket when the lapels are shinier than the body is.
The jacket is worn with black wool and mohair-blend evening trousers, since making up a suit in trousers that match such a bold jacket would look clownish. This jacket needs to be toned down with classic black trousers, Craig knows that. Midnight blue trousers would not be an option with this jacket since they would clash with the blue of the jacket.
In the dim light of the evening, the contrast between the jacket and trousers is very subtle, but the shiny texture of the jacket and the matte texture of the trousers provide the necessary contrast. The blue and black of the jacket and trousers, respectively, would not provide enough contrast on their own, but here there is just enough contrast of both colour and texture for the outfit to work. The outfit was likely put together in a well-lit room, where the contrast between the jacket and trousers would have been quite obvious. If the jacket was a slightly lighter blue, like a royal blue, the outfit would have been better.
The black trousers have satin silk stripes down the side of each leg, which match the trimmings of the dinner jacket and thus tie the two pieces together. The black trousers overall connect with the black facings of the jacket. The trousers have a flat front and a narrow, straight leg and are supported by slide-buckle side-adjusters.
Craig’s white cotton voile dress shirt has a cotton marcella collar, cuffs and a bib. The collar is what appears to be Tom Ford’s “small collar”, which is a traditionally scaled spread collar. It’s not small compared to collars that are popular today, but it’s also not as large as the shirt collars Tom Ford is known for. The shirt is detailed with double cuffs and a plain (French) front.
Three round black onyx studs in silver casings down the front of the shirt are visible above the jacket’s button (a button is visible below the three studs when the jacket is unbuttoned), and matching cuff links secure the cuffs.
Craig accessories the outfit with a black grosgrain batwing bow tie with crosswise ribs and a matching black grosgrain cummerbund, both clashing with the satin facings and trimmings of the dinner jacket. The bow tie and cummerbund should traditionally match the jacket’s facings, though if the cummerbund is not black it does not need to match. A white silk pocket square puffed in the jacket’s breast pocket breaks with James Bond’s folded pocket square look but goes well with the flashier look of Craig’s dinner jacket.
The shoes are black patent leather cap-toe oxfords on a chiselled last from Tom Ford. While every part of Craig’s black tie outfit in Skyfall was provided by Tom Ford except the shoes, even here the shoes are from Tom Ford. Tom Ford has provided almost every type of clothing imaginable for James Bond, but they have never given James Bond a pair of shoes.
Daniel Craig may have a different approach to black tie here than James Bond does, but, ignoring the poor fit of the jacket, the outfit is put together is an interesting and mostly successful manner.
Black Tie Guide previously wrote a short post about this outfit.
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