After over three decades, the character of Ernst Stavro Blofeld, played by Christoph Waltz as the character originally known as Franz Oberhauser, returned to the James Bond films in Spectre. He returns in garb inspired by previous Bond villains, including Telly Savalas’s Blofeld in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, Dr. No in Dr. No and Kamal Khan in Octopussy. Though Blofeld is best-known for wearing jackets with Mao collars in tan and grey, Waltz’s Blofeld wears jackets with Nehru collars—like Dr. Evil of the Austin Powers films—in dark colours.
The navy silk velvet Nehru jacket Blofeld wears at his Moroccan lair in Spectre is bespoke from London tailor Timothy Everest, who also tailored Ralph Fiennes and Dave Bautista for Spectre. The Nehru collar is what marks this jackets as a Nehru jacket, though the Styrian jackets from Christoph Waltz’s birthplace of Austria and what Telly Savalas wears as Blofeld in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service are tailored similarly with a similar stand collar. The jacket is structured like English tailored jackets, but it is lightweight with soft shoulders and has a hint of drape at the sides of the chest, a little waist suppression and a flared skirt. The front buttons at the top with a large black button—though Waltz wears it open—and gently spreads apart until it curves away at the bottom. There are darts at the front for shape in the chest. The jacket is detailed with a single vent, jetted pockets and four buttons on each cuff.
The jacket is tailored with a 39″ chest, a 34 1/2″ waist and a 15 1/4″ collar, which would make Waltz approximately a size 37S.
Under the jacket, Blofeld wears a dark navy shirt from Korean brand Wooyoungmi. The shirt has a neckband collar, which Blofeld wears buttoned, and six buttons down the placket. The shirt has a black rubber ‘lace’ effect on the edges of the collar and button cuffs and on the inner edge of the placket. Blofeld wears the shirt untucked. The pale grey trousers from Maison Margiela are lightweight wool with a drawstring waist, flat front and tapered legs.
Blofeld’s shoes are the Fiandra Slipper from Bottega Veneta in dark navy “Intrecciato” woven calf leather. The woven leather makes these shoes wear cool in hot weather. The slip-on shoes are constructed with only a seam in the back and a square toe, and the soles are black rubber.
In some shots, Waltz goes without socks and in others he wears thin beige socks. Beige socks with contrasting trousers give a sock-less look, which was likely the intention but should generally be avoided if one is indeed wearing socks. If he intended to be wearing socks, grey or blue socks would have been a better choice. In many shots he does indeed go without socks, and this type of shoe can be worn well without socks for increased breathability and comfort in hot weather. Waltz is asked in an AOL Build interview why he does not wear socks, and he replies, “Have you ever worn socks in the desert? It’s kind of hot … It was about 105 degrees”.
Perhaps we are supposed to believe that Blofeld does not wear socks, and his beige socks are only to give a cleaner look than Waltz’s bare ankles would.
The jacket, shirt and trousers sold as part of Christie’s “James Bond Spectre: The Online Sale”, which was held from 16 to 23 February 2016. Costume designer Jany Temime said to Christie’s her ideas for Blofeld’s outfit: “I wanted to keep it simple, abstract, because the man is so bad that you don’t need much detail. All his menace is in his mind.”