Most of the time the only black tie rule that Bond typically breaks is forgoing a waist-covering, such as a waistcoat or cummerbund. In Licence to Kill he remembers the cummerbund, but the black dinner jacket breaks a few conventions.
For the casino scenes in the film, Bond wears a black dinner suit made in a luxurious napped cloth that is possibly a wool and cashmere blend. The dinner jacket has a full cut with wide, padded shoulders, which was a highly fashionable look for 1989. The dinner suit was made at the tailor shop at Universal Studios.
The dinner jacket has notched lapels, which traditionalists do not approve of but are a classic Bond style going back to Goldfinger. The satin-faced lapels are wide and have a low gorge characteristic of the time.
The 1980s low button stance is does not break convention, but having two buttons does. A single-breasted dinner jacket would traditionally never have more than one button, and only would a double-breasted dinner jacket have more than one button on the front.
The rest of the jacket’s details are classic: jetted hip pockets, three-button cuffs and no vents.
The dinner suit’s trousers have double reverse pleats and a silk braid down the leg. They are worn with white moire silk braces, likely made by Albert Thurston.
Bond’s shirt has a fancy striped bib and a placket front with four onyx studs (the only time Bond wears onyx studs), an undersized spread collar and double cuffs. Bond’s silk barathea bow tie is cut in a narrow batwing shape. Bond’s shoes are black patent slip-ons.
The dinner jacket may go against tradition (including Bond’s traditions), and its full fit is the opposite of current fashions, but at the time it would have been fashionable and has a high-end look that is up to Bond’s standards. At this point in the film, Bond is dressing to look wealthy and powerful to fit in with villain Franz Sanchez’s crowd, and this costume by costume designer Jodie Tillen succeeds in its purpose.