The more traditionally-minded people think of the solid black suit as funeral wear. In Diamonds Are Forever, James Bond undercover as Peter Franks appropriately wears a black three-piece suit when mourning the death of his “brother.” Diamonds Are Forever was the first Bond film of the 1970s and Bond’s suit reflects the new decade with it’s wider lapels and pocket flaps and deeper double vents.
But as before, this Anthony Sinclair suit has a button two front, four buttons on the cuffs, soft shoulders and roped sleeve heads. The chest is slightly draped though cleaner than before, and the waist isn’t as nipped as before since Sean Connery’s waist isn’t either. The hip pockets are straight with wide flaps and there is a welt breast pocket. There are deep double vents at the rear.
The trouser pleats that Connery wore before went out with the 1960s; now Connery is wearing darted front trousers without turn-ups. The trousers have a waistband with a square extension and “Daks-tops” button-tab side-adjusters with three dark mother-of-pearl buttons on each side. The side pockets are on-seam and there is a coin pocket beneath the waistband on the right side. The trouser legs are tapered. The waistcoat is a full six-button cut with a cutaway bottom, four welt pockets and without lapels.
Here Bond’s shirt is a light ecru, which helps to offset the starkness of the black suit. The shirt has pretty much stayed the same, though the traditional Turnbull & Asser collar may be a little larger. The two-button cocktail cuff has returned with Connery, but here he only fastens the first button and lets the cuff roll over the second button (pictured below). This will only work with a cuff that has a sewn interlining, not a fused interlining as is common today since the fusing will not roll over as naturally. I initially thought it was a mistake but since Bond does it with other outfits in the film it must have been done on purpose. Bond’s tie is solid black with a strong diagonal rib. Diamonds Are Forever is the first film where Bond goes beyond the silk knitted and grenadine ties (save Bond’s masquerade as Sir Hilary Bray). But it’s still solid.
Bond wears an uncommon style of shoe here, a black full-brogue (wing-tip) three-eyelet derby. This is the “Brogue V-Front” shoe from John Lobb Ltd of St. James’s, London.